It also reduces the angle on the drive shaft.

 

I have the AEV brackets on mine. I had adjustable control arms and took them off when i installed the brackets. It has to be one of the best mods I have done so far. I have 4" of lift and it now drives as close to stock if not better.

 

I bought a Rancho 4" Sport Lift (RS6507B) last year during Rancho's annual $500 rebate and, based on the part number in your picture (176436B), those same brackets came with the kit. Those brackets have been in the 4" Sport kit for the last 3 years at least.

Today I would go with the new 3" kit but it wasn't available last year.

To those who say the brackets hang too low, long-arms are just as bad and may by worse for break-over since the long-arm brackets are closer to center.

... Besides, the lower control arms will guide the rocks under those brackets.

Rancho 4" Sport with RS9000XL shocks, 17x9 M/T Classic 3, 315/70R17 Duratracs on a 2010 Unlimited Sahara:
(BTW - caster with brackets after lift was perfect with stock control arms.)

 

Looks great SL!! I have really considered going with the 3" sport with the drop brackets. Why would you go 3" now if you don't mind me asking? PM if you would rather so not to clutter kjeeper's thread...Sorry kjeeper..

 

Thanks Sahara Lee

 

Not necessarily. At ride height it remains the same. Actually makes it worse if caster is corrected.
When the axle droops the pinion is raised more with the brackets. At least what they claim. I've never looked into it.

 

The main reason for going with 3" over 4" is stability. If you don't need the extra inch for fording streams and mud holes, being an inch shorter gives a lower center of gravity.

Before the new 3" kit (RS66106B) you had to have the 4" to fit 35" tires. That is no longer true. The 3" works fine. Also, the 3" has an inch more down-travel than the 4" since they use the same shocks. (I think)

NOTE: With both the '12 and '13 year models you will need the exhaust cross-over (RS720003) for either. My 2010 doesn't require it.

Installation of the new 4" and 3" is much simpler than last year's kit with the front track bar relocation bracket (major PITA to install and really should be welded in place) and the dropped pitman arm (ever tried applying 185FtLbs of torque sideways?).

 

3" I would not drop the pitman or use the bracket. If front geometry is a concern/bumpsteer. You are a lot better off with a highsteer setup.
- drag link is flipped not putting stress on the sector shaft/box like the DPA
- raised track bar bracket raises the front roll center.

 

These are the same brackets that we offered in our OLD SPORT system and our new 4" SPORT system too.
We had a TON of people asking for just this P/N, so we listened and are making these available as a stand a lone item.
It will use the same parts pack as on the 4" SPORT system, BTW. So you are getting as an added bonus a few extra nuts and bolts that are used on the swaybar end links.

 

kjeeper, what makes these better than the AEV brackets? I was holding off on the AEV brackets to see some reviews of these first.

btw, I would be using these with the RK adj. LCAs.