Ok. So, despite the Detroit being an auto, it comes with it's own carrier. And since it's own carrier is strong than the stock one it isn't as bad a choice as a lunchbox

I think I'm getting this.

I will go read Dynstrac's post in detail... I initially started this thread just trying to learn _what_ a "Detroit" is.... now I think I am also understand _why_ a Detroit is what it is.

 

u-joint-
If you're not fully immersed in the locker world, your confusion with the Detroit name is quite understandable. Tractech, the Company that built the Detroit Locker and has since been purchased by Eaton, named all of their products Detroit to tie them in with their unique, legendary Detroit Locker- Detroit Locker, Detroit Truetrac, Detroit E-Z Locker(now gone), Detroit Electrac(also gone). Only the Detroit Locker is ever just known as a Detroit unless it is by someone that just doesn't know any better. This name issue has caused problems at times and some have ended up with a product other than what they expected.

The Detroit Locker, as others have mentioned, is a full case auto locker. It is much more durable (and quieter) and is better suited to rear axle applications than a lunch box locker. Lunch box lockers wear over time (Detroit Lockers don't) and have small parts that frequently break and can leave you stranded.

If you get a new open carrier to install a lunchbox locker, you will need to do the same carrier shimming that you'll need to do with a Detroit. The pinion will not need to be adjusted but carrier bearing preload and ring gear to pinion gear backlash will need to be set.

The installation of a Detroit Locker isn't a huge deal but can be intimidating. The Detroit Locker case will need to be drilled to allow the larger JK ring gear bolts but it's a very simple job. The key to a good install is to maintain the gear backlash that is already supplied in your JK. Be sure to measure the gear backlash BEFORE you remove the existing differential. You will copy that backlash. Changing the backlash, even if it is within factory specs for new gear backlash, will result in premature gear wear and gear howl.

 

I will be getting a rear detroit installed here this weekend along with my 5.13 gears. Dynatrac and a few others input on here sold me on it, cant wait!

 

I'm totally new to the diff locker topic....

Where do stock jeep diff lockers fall short of aftermarket lockers? What situations would the stock lockers not cut it and something like a detroit locker would work?

 

stock jeep's dont have lockers unless you have a rubi or an X that came with a optional rear locker. lockers are not required but help a ton offroad for traction.

 

^^ All true.

There is also some debate on the durability of the factory JK electric lockers. Some love 'em, others hate 'em.

Check here- http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-tech/d...ts-lockers-101

 

The stock rubi e-lockers are great, as long as they are working properly. But, a lot of people are having issues with them. If you have one break out of warranty, you are looking at around $1200 for just the front locker, plus the labor for the install. Rather than replace with a another factory locker, many people are opting for an $800 35sp ARB air locker. The issue there is that you need to run 35sp axle shafts. This puts you a bit over the cost of the factory elocker, but you end up with a much better and stronger setup. (and by the way, the rubicon axles have very limited support for aftermarkeet lockers. A strong ARB and a weak ECTED are the only options I believe)


They are different type of lockers. As noted above, the detroit is an auto locker, which means it is always on. You have no option of turning it off. With your current elockers, you have open diffs until you push the button, and then the axles are locked. Your current 'selectable' setup will perform better in many situations, especially slick roads, than auto lockers. (as far as I know, auto lockers are not an option for your rubicon housings, so it's a non-issue)

 

Thank, nth, real informative! So say I'm driving on some slightly snowy/icy paved roads...would I want to lock the rear up, or both the front and the rear, or what? If I'm in 4hi with one or both axles locked, is 40mph still the ceiling or is it even lower?

 

Truetrac's
Sorry, had to do it...

 

If you frequently drive in compact snow and ice, especially if you spend little time off road, Truetracs are the very best option, in fact, far better than any selectable.

The thing that makes selectables great can also make them bad- you have to make the selection. If you're not spending much time off road, why be stuck having to make a choice? Do you really want to have to remember to turn on your locker just to leave a icy stop sign? Do you want your significant other to have to make the choice? The Truetrac will provide great traction even if you aren't aware there might be a problem. I've run TTs for years in my DDs and love them. You'll never really know there are installed until you can drive some slippery place and the guy beside you is stuck.