Regear and axle advice
05-04-2017, 05:03 AM
#11
Super Moderator
Just looking for a little advice. The jeep is a 2016 JKU automatic. Currently I am running a RK 3.5 max travel, Method NV wheels, and BFG KO2 37s. Only armor I have at the time is a Hanson stubby stinger bumper but will be adding rock sliders and probably dropping the spare tire or saving for a body mount tire carrier. Soon I will be finishing the lift adding front and rear upper control arms, rear track bar, upgrading to steer smarts yeti drag link and tie rod, and adding a front track bar bracket if needed depending on axle.
First question is what gears would be best for my jku with the 3.6 and automatic with the KO2 37s. Everybody knows they are more like 36s when mounted and they weigh less than the majority of 35 inch mud terrains at only 70 ish lbs a piece. I was thinking 4.56s but after i upgrade the axles with lockers i think i would more likely need 4.88s. Also I live in Florida which is mostly flat and dont do any super serious offroading.
Second question is because the KO2s are smaller and lighter do i need to upgrade to a 44 front or can i just build up the dana 30. Options right now are build the 30 with artec truss gussets and skids, carbon axles, teraflex ball joints, and track bar bracket. Or buy the new spicer UD44, lock and regear the rear to match. Or buy and build a J8 axle with artec truss kit, carbon axles, e lockers front and rear, teraflex ball joints, and track bar bracket.
Any info or advice is much appreciated. Hopefully someone with the same tire setup.
First question is what gears would be best for my jku with the 3.6 and automatic with the KO2 37s. Everybody knows they are more like 36s when mounted and they weigh less than the majority of 35 inch mud terrains at only 70 ish lbs a piece. I was thinking 4.56s but after i upgrade the axles with lockers i think i would more likely need 4.88s. Also I live in Florida which is mostly flat and dont do any super serious offroading.
Second question is because the KO2s are smaller and lighter do i need to upgrade to a 44 front or can i just build up the dana 30. Options right now are build the 30 with artec truss gussets and skids, carbon axles, teraflex ball joints, and track bar bracket. Or buy the new spicer UD44, lock and regear the rear to match. Or buy and build a J8 axle with artec truss kit, carbon axles, e lockers front and rear, teraflex ball joints, and track bar bracket.
Any info or advice is much appreciated. Hopefully someone with the same tire setup.
Put an Artec Truss on the D30 regear to the gear size that meets your needs and put an Aussie Locker in. Since you are going to have an Aussie Locker and bigger gears your ring and pinion will be the weakest link so keep stock axle shafts and drive shafts so they are your weakest link. I know from experience that this works. At the 2016 EJS on Rose Garden Hill I blew both font axle shafts on the same obstacle and drove it off the mountain. I had the set up mentioned above with Nitto Trail Grapplers mounted on ATX Slabs so they were not light tires. I had stock replacement shafts so it was an easy fix. Contrary to what you read on other forums your D30 will not explode as soon as you drive it. The Artec truss when welded according to the directions or with a pre-load will not bend.
I know of several here in Texas that have been running 40's on a trussed D30. Is that smart no but if you can control the skinny pedal you will be fine. It all comes down to picking your line and doing what your spotter says.
After Moab last year I picked up a Spicer U44 and have not looked back.
R/
Will
05-04-2017, 05:12 AM
#12
JK Jedi
LOL, the debate is officially heating up!
05-04-2017, 10:28 AM
#14
The piece of mind that goes with a 44 front axle upgrade is well worth the money. I've sold a ton of axles and I've never had anyone that said- I really wish I'd kept my 30 (or 35).
All the upgrades you'll do on a 30 are the same (or very near) cost of 44 parts. Plus, you don't have to worry about sleeves or gussets. A huge issue to consider is the improvement in caster angle with the aftermarket 44. A JK with 5 or 6* of Caster drives far better than the 1-3" that you'll see with a stock housing and a 4ish lift. Obviously, adjustable control arms are required but at least you can get a great driving rig AND the correct pinion angle.
Budgets are always tight but if you can afford to do it all at once, do it once and do it right.
All the upgrades you'll do on a 30 are the same (or very near) cost of 44 parts. Plus, you don't have to worry about sleeves or gussets. A huge issue to consider is the improvement in caster angle with the aftermarket 44. A JK with 5 or 6* of Caster drives far better than the 1-3" that you'll see with a stock housing and a 4ish lift. Obviously, adjustable control arms are required but at least you can get a great driving rig AND the correct pinion angle.
Budgets are always tight but if you can afford to do it all at once, do it once and do it right.
05-04-2017, 11:25 AM
#15
JK Freak
The piece of mind that goes with a 44 front axle upgrade is well worth the money. I've sold a ton of axles and I've never had anyone that said- I really wish I'd kept my 30 (or 35).
All the upgrades you'll do on a 30 are the same (or very near) cost of 44 parts. Plus, you don't have to worry about sleeves or gussets. A huge issue to consider is the improvement in caster angle with the aftermarket 44. A JK with 5 or 6* of Caster drives far better than the 1-3" that you'll see with a stock housing and a 4ish lift. Obviously, adjustable control arms are required but at least you can get a great driving rig AND the correct pinion angle.
Budgets are always tight but if you can afford to do it all at once, do it once and do it right.
All the upgrades you'll do on a 30 are the same (or very near) cost of 44 parts. Plus, you don't have to worry about sleeves or gussets. A huge issue to consider is the improvement in caster angle with the aftermarket 44. A JK with 5 or 6* of Caster drives far better than the 1-3" that you'll see with a stock housing and a 4ish lift. Obviously, adjustable control arms are required but at least you can get a great driving rig AND the correct pinion angle.
Budgets are always tight but if you can afford to do it all at once, do it once and do it right.
05-04-2017, 01:07 PM
#17
Former Vendor
Holy cow, another one!
Don't fear the Dana 30, people!
Now, that being said I probably wouldn't jam out on anything bigger than a 35, but you're using a small 37 so you should be fine.
There is a simple formula for success with a Dana 30: Gears that aren't 5.13s, selectable locker or TrueTrac if you want traction, C knuckle gussets and factory axle shafts, after that, leave it be and run it. When the balljoints wear out, replacement with some Pro Steers.
The ring and pinion on a Dana 30 is small, and a 5.13 is an entire tooth short in contact area vs a 4.88. If you're really romping on it, choose a 4.56 for strength, but I would roll with a 4.88 for what you're doing.
You can't put a traction aid in the front that creates drag and freaks out the traction control. A selectable locker is best, but a Detroit Truetrac works great and is simple with no drag.
As far as beefing up the axle, I probably wouldn't spend any more money on beefing up the housing than I have to. A truss system is way more than a Dana 30 is worth. If you're worried about it, a set sleeves help, Nitros just slide right in but require some labor disassembling the axle to get them in. C Knuckle gussets don't require you completely pull the axle apart and make a big difference.
The big thing with a Dana 30 is NOT to add beefy axle shafts. You want to use the stock shafts as a fuse, keeping the breakage out of your expensive bits in the differential. They're a pretty easy trail repair.
This is one of the most common questions we get at the shop and it's all over the net. Run the Jeep you have and don't let a less than ideal axle keep you from running it. You can get everywhere on a set of 35s with good driving that you can with a 37, just run it.
Don't fear the Dana 30, people!
Now, that being said I probably wouldn't jam out on anything bigger than a 35, but you're using a small 37 so you should be fine.
There is a simple formula for success with a Dana 30: Gears that aren't 5.13s, selectable locker or TrueTrac if you want traction, C knuckle gussets and factory axle shafts, after that, leave it be and run it. When the balljoints wear out, replacement with some Pro Steers.
The ring and pinion on a Dana 30 is small, and a 5.13 is an entire tooth short in contact area vs a 4.88. If you're really romping on it, choose a 4.56 for strength, but I would roll with a 4.88 for what you're doing.
You can't put a traction aid in the front that creates drag and freaks out the traction control. A selectable locker is best, but a Detroit Truetrac works great and is simple with no drag.
As far as beefing up the axle, I probably wouldn't spend any more money on beefing up the housing than I have to. A truss system is way more than a Dana 30 is worth. If you're worried about it, a set sleeves help, Nitros just slide right in but require some labor disassembling the axle to get them in. C Knuckle gussets don't require you completely pull the axle apart and make a big difference.
The big thing with a Dana 30 is NOT to add beefy axle shafts. You want to use the stock shafts as a fuse, keeping the breakage out of your expensive bits in the differential. They're a pretty easy trail repair.
This is one of the most common questions we get at the shop and it's all over the net. Run the Jeep you have and don't let a less than ideal axle keep you from running it. You can get everywhere on a set of 35s with good driving that you can with a 37, just run it.
05-04-2017, 05:15 PM
#18
I can make this a whole lot simpler using forum member ChuckTheRipper's multiple D30 R/P implosions as the benchmark.
If you wheel like Chucky, then upgrade to an aftermarket D44 front axle. If you don't plan to wheel like Chucky or can honestly say you will never-ever wheel like Chucky later down the road, then keep your D30 and slap some c-gussets on it and call it a day. In this case, you probably don't need a rear 35 spline ARB locker in the rear and will be fine with a Detroit TruTrac.
For what it's worth. I've always preferred to run the lighter (and smaller) BFG KM2's and now the BFG KO2's in 35's and 37's. I used to a have a semi-built D30 with Teraflex ball joints, Nitro sleeves, and Teraflex spline c-gussets. It did fine BUT I also made sure to finesse the gas pedal and never mash on it. The only thing I really worried about was imploding the axle shafts which is why I carried a spare set.
Now I run a PR44u with 35 spline RCV's and 37" KO2's on HD17's. I no longer worry about the front end of the Jeep.
Good luck either way you choose.
.
If you wheel like Chucky, then upgrade to an aftermarket D44 front axle. If you don't plan to wheel like Chucky or can honestly say you will never-ever wheel like Chucky later down the road, then keep your D30 and slap some c-gussets on it and call it a day. In this case, you probably don't need a rear 35 spline ARB locker in the rear and will be fine with a Detroit TruTrac.
For what it's worth. I've always preferred to run the lighter (and smaller) BFG KM2's and now the BFG KO2's in 35's and 37's. I used to a have a semi-built D30 with Teraflex ball joints, Nitro sleeves, and Teraflex spline c-gussets. It did fine BUT I also made sure to finesse the gas pedal and never mash on it. The only thing I really worried about was imploding the axle shafts which is why I carried a spare set.
Now I run a PR44u with 35 spline RCV's and 37" KO2's on HD17's. I no longer worry about the front end of the Jeep.
Good luck either way you choose.
.
Last edited by DJ1; 05-04-2017 at 05:28 PM.
05-05-2017, 05:24 AM
#19
JK Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2016
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Run whatever you can afford. I swapped to Rubi 44's because I got both axles with lockers and gears for 2k. Some will say I wasted money on them because they aren't G2 or Dynatrac. Whatever, its what I can afford and its my Jeep. If you can beef up a D30 to run it for a while do it. Then when it breaks have some $$$ set aside to fix it and keep shopping for a better axle in the meantime, if that's what you want.
Everybody thinks what they have is the best option, but they wont pony up the cash to put it on yours. Just budget for breaks and don't get crazy.
Everybody thinks what they have is the best option, but they wont pony up the cash to put it on yours. Just budget for breaks and don't get crazy.
05-05-2017, 09:16 AM
#20
JK Newbie
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I just went through the same thing. I was going to put money into my dana 30 to make it stronger. My advice is save your money don't throw money at a dana 30 in the long run it is not a strong axle and dana 30 gears are not as strong. I was going to sleeve and gusset my dana 30 front and put a truss So glad I didn't it would have been a waste. Save up buy a tera44 or dynatrac pro rock you can find them on the forums for 2500+ all set up by that with 37's in and a dana 44 you can now have the 5.13 gears and that set up will be awesome. I saved up bought a Pro Rock 44 with arb locker rcv 35 spline axle shafts and 5.13 gears runs amazing. My buddy didn't listen he threw a bunch of cash at his dana 30 and has had problems. Thats my advice I know it costs a little bit more but in the long run it saves you money. I am the same way I don't have deep pockets and in the long run I'm glad i waited saved and got the better option. JEEP Just. Emptied Every Pocket. Its up to you man that's my two cents. Good luck