Looking for someone with more mechanical knowledge than I to explain something. As many newbies find themselves, I'm in the middle of a lift kit rabbit hole. I am seeing many lift kit options that are exactly the same except one option will come with new control arms and one will not. My question is this. If a 3 in kit has both of these options, what is the purpose of the kit with new arms? I understand that after a certain point the position of the axle needs to be corrected and I just assumed that was the purpose of the new arms but if the same lift is being offered without them it would seem that is not the case. The only other thing I can think of is they are just a beefier upgrade over stock.

Sorry if this seems remedial to some of you, I'm not a mechanic.

 

Adjustable control arms are used to both position the axle and adjust caster. There are other methods of adjusting caster such as control arm drop brackets for the factory arms. Some might determine a means other than using adjustable arms is better for their specific application. Either way, caster needs to be adjusted when lifting the jeep or the ride quality will suffer.

 

As noted, this is regarding the alignment spec 'Caster'. Basically what is happening is that as you add lift height, the entire front axle rotates, which slowly raises the pinion --> which automatically lowers the caster. As the Caster number goes down, the steering gets worse. You will see terms such as flighty or wandering to describe it. The taller the lift, the lower the Caster goes, and the worse the handling gets.

Lift mfgs are businesses. Businesses try to provide multiple options at multiple price points. In the case of lifts, some kits come with every component, and much higher corresponding price tags. And other kits that are less complete, with price tags that better fit other peoples lower budgets. These lower budget setups have the option to add more components if/when the owner chooses - (or, might be better suited for when an owner is upgrading to a new lift but still wants to use some of the old components). No harm in installing a basic kit, then taking a drive to see if you like the new handling. Don't like flighty steering, add one of the multiple options for caster correction.

One thing to remember is that there is no magic number for either lift height or Caster that will work for everyone. Somewhere around 2.5" is generally where many people choose to start looking into Caster correction, some do not. Too much personal opinion for a blanket statement on what you might decide is right for you...

 

Welcome.. Both our fellow members have excellent posts.. Should you choose the less expensive w/o adjustable control arms .. with a 3 inch lift consider these: Rancho Control Arm Geometry Correction Brackets. Jeep JK Geometry Correction Brackets keep the control arms at factory angles to deflect road harshness, reduce brake dive and allow for proper caster angle after the addition of an aftermarket lift kit.. about $150 at multiple online catalogue sellers. BTW.. always ask for the JK Forum Discount..

 

Thank you, this makes a lot of sense. I guess I was not thinking of the business aspect of offering different price points. I think I will go ahead and spend the extra money for a complete kit from the get go. Another question I have now is in regard to "no magic number." I take that to mean even if I install a complete kit, I may need to make additional adjustments specific to my jeep only. Outside of scouring the forums do you know of any other resources I may want to check out if I find myself wanting to tweak how the jeep rides? Like I said, I'm not a mechanic but I do like working on my own rig. You talked about multiple options for caster correction. The kit I will go with will have an adjustable front track bar, new lower control arms, and rear track bar relocation bracket. I'm still on the fence between 2.5 and 3 but if its 3I'll be adding exhaust spacers and cv front driveshaft as well. As far as caster correction, is there anything else I should be paying attention to or changing? Any other correction options? Thanks again for your help.

 

The size lift you choose should be driven by what is your intended use & what size tires are going to run.. On our JKU the AEV 2.5" Dual Sport really lifted about 4".. We run 35s and do not Rock Crawl.. it is more DD with "Green" & some "Blue" Trails in the future. This AEV kit does not come with adjustables.. I did use Ranho GC Brackets.. It drives / rides just like Stock; if not better. Read up on AEV 2.5 Dual Sport..

 

What kind of off roading do you see in your future? Are you into back country/fire road and light wheelin or more technical crawling through large boulders? If you're not into hardercore things, the control arm brackets would actually be a better option and provide a nicer all-around ride for a daily driver. The downside to brackets is lost clearance at the frame rail. The adjustable front track bar will allow you to get the axle centered perfectly under the jeep, and the raised bracket in the rear will help with your roll center (you want to keep the rear TB higher and more level for better performance). Besides caster, the springs and shocks you choose will have the biggest impact on overall ride quality. I'd try to stick with a 2.5" life, and it is likely to net you more than 2.5". Going higher isn't better, it's only raising your center of gravity. Lift only as high as necessary to accommodate the tires you want.....that is the best rule of thumb. Going higher just creates a few more headaches.....as you note exhaust spacers and driveshafts. Maybe save or set aside a bit of your budget just in case you find yourself addressing any steering components like ball joints or a tie rod. Steering is often overlooked when people are lifting as they focus only on suspension, and those unexpected costs can hurt. Again, a lot depends on your specific use, but it's a common hurdle.

I will always be a proponent of people doing their own work when it comes to installs. I realize some people physically can't, but if you are able and have the tools I'd suggest it's the best way to get in tune with your vehicle. If there are things you don't understand or are unsure of how to do, people here are willing to help explain and offer tips. Most things on the jeep don't require any fancy tools. If you don't have a decent 1/2" drive torque wrench, get one. Even if someone else does the install it's best to recheck torque on things. Shops ain't perfect.


Just going back up to the top a bit.....if you question how control arm brackets could produce a better ride, it's simple geometry. Brackets will drop the frame side mount which ends up in the control arms running at a flatter angle. Adjustable control arms use the current factory mounts. Though they can be extended longer/shorter, the angle at which the arm runs is much steeper. In addition, the bushings used in the factory arms and a few reputable aftermarket manufacturers produce the best ride as they absorb a lot of bumps that would otherwise be transferred into the body. of the jeep. Don't just think about components being adjustable, scrutinize the joints that are used in them.

 

Thank you to everyone that has responded, this has been extremely helpful. As some of you have pointed out, The lift should be based on tires and function. My jeep is stock 2016 Rubicon with 35s already on. As you know the 35s fit but if I look at a bump I'm hitting my fenders. Its a daily driver but I hope to see some blue trails and maybe an obstacle or two in the future.

All of the info provided has been appreciated, I didn't even know geometry correction brackets were a thing. At this point I may go that route and switch to adjustable arms in the future if I find the need the additional clearance.

Can't thank you guys enough, I'm glad I joined the forum as it seems everyone is genuinely interested in helping beginners. Whatever I decide, I plan on doing the install myself in the spring (tax return gift to myself). I'll try to remember to post pics when I get it done.

Seriously, thanks again.