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Replacment Drive Shaft questions.

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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:44 AM
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Default Replacment Drive Shaft questions.

Sometime within the next year or so, I am considering putting in a new rear drive shaft (unlimited rubicon).

I am thinking the j.e. reel 1310. I am still undecided between the "pinion and transfer case yoke" verses OE flanges. How hard is it to convert from OE to pinion/yoke setup? Is the OE setup easier to install? Is the OE an inherently weak design?
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 09:45 AM
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Is your jeep lifted?
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by MAROONJEEP
Is your jeep lifted?
It will soon (hopefully) have a FT Ultimate 3 inch.

Last edited by greggradwohl; Nov 30, 2007 at 11:19 AM.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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With that lift your rear driveshaft should be fine and your front one too. If it was me i would wait till the front one went out (if it ever did) and then get a 1310 with the non oem ends (I forget what they are called right now). Then i would upgrade to a 1350 rear when the funds became available.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by MAROONJEEP
With that lift your rear driveshaft should be fine and your front one too. If it was me i would wait till the front one went out (if it ever did) and then get a 1310 with the non oem ends (I forget what they are called right now). Then i would upgrade to a 1350 rear when the funds became available.
If/when I go to the non-oem ends, do I need any special tools? Is there a writeup anywhere? Is it so obvious that this is a stupid question?
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 11:52 AM
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The shop that built my shafts said the pieces that adapt the drop in oem replacments have a custom adapter that is not easy to find if you ever broke it. the replacememnt yokes and flanges that this local shop used are TJ standard replacement parts that are carried by most parts suppliers.
My 2 dr 4" lift made new shafts a must 4 drs. are not so bad.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 12:08 PM
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Are any special tools required to remove the OEM Flanges?
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 01:27 PM
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There are several posts regarding the need for new drivetrains if you run taller tires on higher lifts. There seems to be an"average" number of miles of as few as a few thousand to as many as 7-8K before the things start to vibrate or break outright. (intnetionally vague timeframe depicted here, understanding degree of use/abuse of Jeep.

My question is,... How much longer do the new upgraded shafts tend to last??
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by mmcan
There are several posts regarding the need for new drivetrains if you run taller tires on higher lifts. There seems to be an"average" number of miles of as few as a few thousand to as many as 7-8K before the things start to vibrate or break outright. (intnetionally vague timeframe depicted here, understanding degree of use/abuse of Jeep.

My question is,... How much longer do the new upgraded shafts tend to last??
proper maintaince, a long time, you might break u-joints etc..

removing the stock flanges is very easy, just go get a puller from your local auto parts store. I used a Harmonic Balance puller and made it work.
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Old Nov 30, 2007 | 02:09 PM
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The problem with the oem shafts is the CV stlye joint cannot run at the angle generated from a lift. The new replacement shfts area total different style. They have double U joints and can handle the angle. I had no vibration from my OEM shafts they just started smoking one day(3k mikes after the lift) on the way to work. On the way home they sounded like a
CAT CAUGHT IN THE FAN BELT!!!!!
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