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Rewiring Rubicon Lockers

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Old 08-17-2010, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by jmducha View Post
Don't mean to sound pissy. But splicing a ground isn't really "messing" with relays. Then running two wires from the battery to the dash isn't exactly a new "harness". Good luck on the install though. I can definitely say this is the second best mod I have done. Works awesome in sand in two wheel drive and four high, since I live on an island it comes in handy. I did subscribe to see the final product.

How much was the other harness?
I wasn't referring to your method as running a new harness. There is another thread of how to rewire the lockers that is doing the same thing that I'm doing but requires you to run new wires all the way to the diffs. My original plan for this was to modify the factory harness that I bought and use it to run what I need to the lockers, get rid of everything else on it and just zip tie the current connections at the diffs up and out of the way. Once I took this one apart and realized how easy it would be to bypass everything while still using the stock wiring I decided to go this route. The extra harness was $75 bucks from quadratec. I'll probably just sell it cheep afterward to someone that got the Rubi axles for their X or Sahara and need the connectors.
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Old 08-17-2010, 05:08 PM
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Not a bad price, thanks.
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Old 08-19-2010, 06:05 AM
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Default Wiring Diagram

For those of you that can follow a proper wiring diagram, here's what I'm doing with this.

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Old 08-19-2010, 06:22 AM
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FLE = Front Locker Enable
FLS = Front Locker Status
RLE = Rear Locker Enable
RLS = Rear Locker Status

Basically I'm doing the same thing that this guy did I'm just splicing into the factory harness instead of running new wires all the way to the lockers. I'm using the same rocker switches as well if you are wondering the part numbers on the switches.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...ire-my-lockers...
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:04 AM
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As a side note DON'T order anything from route 66 dot com. I placed the order and after 4 days there was no response to my e-mail inquiries or phone messages. I had to have my bank stop the payment authorization that their web site put on my card. On the other hand deutschconnector dot com got my order out 2 hours after I placed it. They were the only other place that I could find that had the specific connectors i wanted for sale on the web.
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:19 AM
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Default KUDOS....great idea

Thanks for the great idea. Yes, I will follow this thread and keep the data. I too would like to modify the lockers to operate MY WAY not Chryslers way. And I applaud both of your efforts. One is simple-and it works and one is sophisticated-and it too will work. Great ideas come from some great minds, both complex and simple. Let those of us in the field decide which we want--simple or sophisticated. This county is all about CHOICE.
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Old 08-19-2010, 07:25 AM
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This will work and be a slick install. I agree if you gonna do it , do it right. I'm an electrical engineer so getting stuff to work is no big deal, the art/craftsmanship is getting it to look right.

While replacing my ring & pinion when home in June and noticed the locker sensor. It got me wondering if it was a straight up magnetic mechanical contact switch or a NPN proximity switch.


I like my stuff in complete control and manual (funny I'm a process automation engineer) but I have never had the need for lockers going fast. If that ever changes I like your method best so far.
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:13 AM
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Originally Posted by toymaster View Post
This will work and be a slick install. I agree if you gonna do it , do it right. I'm an electrical engineer so getting stuff to work is no big deal, the art/craftsmanship is getting it to look right.

While replacing my ring & pinion when home in June and noticed the locker sensor. It got me wondering if it was a straight up magnetic mechanical contact switch or a NPN proximity switch.


I like my stuff in complete control and manual (funny I'm a process automation engineer) but I have never had the need for lockers going fast. If that ever changes I like your method best so far.
I'm an engineer (mechanical) in the automation field as well. i work for Siemens Industry in their building automation division. I design things like this on a daily basis just for a different application.

The status pickup on the lockers is just a simple mechanical dry contact by the way. Also the negative side of the locker is grounded in the vehicle harness already. That's why you don't see it in my wiring diagram.

Last edited by TheScientist; 08-19-2010 at 08:17 AM.
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:26 AM
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Ok. Im NOT an engineer. If I just do the "ground wires to the relays" mod, I assume there will be no status lights telling me the lockers are activated? Correct? Also, I cant see your wiring diagram in the previous post so Im not sure what you did different. Im assuming that with your mod, the status lights WILL work?

If so, can you please do a detailed write up for us (with pics) so we non-engineers can do your mod?

Thanks a million,

Flash
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Old 08-19-2010, 08:43 AM
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If you ground the wire on the relay it will cause the lockers to engage and you will get the status lights on your dash to just blink as if there is a problem. Which according to the Jeep there is. This is because the lockers are locked and the Jeep doesn't want them to be.

My method is to completely bypass the Jeeps computer and relays and take control of everything my self. The rocker switches that I'm using have 2 lights in them. A top one that lights up the symbol on them and a bottom one that is supposed to come on when the switch is turned on. The top one i'm wiring to the dimmer circuit for the dash lights. The bottom one is going to be my locker status light. If you look at the diagram that was in the thread that I referenced above you should be able to get an idea of how it works.

Basically how the status light works is this. On the switch when you feed the 12v supply into the switch and when you tun it on it feeds that 12 volts out one of the connectors and also feeds it through the bottom light. Once it goes through the bottom light is comes out another connector that you need to ground to make the light work. I am taking that ground and running it through the status contact at the lockers then to ground. This way when I flip the switch it will feed 12v to the lockers and the light. Once the lockers engage and the status switch closes it completes the ground for the light and the light turns on.

Once I actually do the install this weekend I will post up pics of where and how I tapped into the Jeep's harness.

Last edited by TheScientist; 08-19-2010 at 08:45 AM.
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