jadmt

Ultimately if you have a legitimate problem you will be taken care of.

Rock Krawler Suspension

Thank you sir. And some of those are much easier determined that others.

RK OUT FOR THE WEEKEND

HAVE A GOOD ONE ALL

ragnarok_jku

I've got the Rock Krawler 3.5" Flex with Bilstein 5100's and like the setup. Wheeled in Moab, Johnson Valley, dirt, slickrock, mud, etc. It's my daily driver and handles well on and off road (lots of flex) in my opinion. I did upgrade my Tie Rod and Drag Link to Steersmarts Yeti XD and that made a difference in the steering/handling. If you are going with 35's I'd recommend the 2.5" kit. I've currently got 35's and would have preferred to do the 2.5" for that size tire.

WyoJKUR

Nice. After looking at the different kits I'm leaning towards the 2.5 max travel with 5100s. Will I need any thing else besides the exhaust spacer for it to be a nice driver?

Rock Krawler Suspension

You should not leave the exhaust spacers either for the 2.5" system. But it is really up to you of course. If you went to a 3.5, then you would need them for sure, or a new front driveshaft, or an exhaust loop delete kit.

RK

resharp001

Couple more options for this would include a y-pipe which can be purchased separate from a full loop delete, but another option is having a muffler shop re-route the exhaust in the same manner that a y-pipe does....but at a much more budget friendly manner to your wallet. Usually in that $50-$80 range.

WyoJKUR

Just wondering if I do the 2.5 instead of the 3.5 if it'll be much different from my leveling kit I have now. Kinda going back and forth. If I do the 3.5 would I be able to get by with the stock drive shaft and steering for a while or would I have problems right away? I have 22000 miles on it right now. Seems like a lot of people don't do everything right away.

TheDirtman

For what you describe you are going to do with the jeep I would not mess with swapping suspensions. You should be able to run 35" tires with what you have now and maintain the more factory like ride. I typically suggest flat fenders over a lift anyday for a daily driver on 35's

WyoJKUR

I know that's also an option but really want to change the overall look of it. Let's face it lifted Jeeps just look better in my opinion. Maybe I should ask this.....If I go to a 3.5 inch lift what parts have to be changed right away(besides springs,shocks,etc) and what parts can wait?

resharp001

The front drive shaft is a crap shoot regardless. Mine lasted 25k miles on 3.5" lift, a buddy's only lasted 15k miles on 3.5" lift, and I've seen another buddy's crap out at 25k miles on a 2.5" budget boost.....and he literally went offroad once with the rest of the time seeing pavement miles. With a 3.5" lift, drive shaft is only a matter of time. With a 2.5" lift....probably a little longer, but it's still buying time in my opinion. It's not going to crap out on you immediately, but you need to know the sign, keep an eye on it, and budget for it.

It's just damn near impossible to do this stuff cheap, unless you want to settle for a really crappy driving jeep. Adding height and slapping bigger/heavier rubber all comes at a cost, and a lot of it isn't the upfront costs of the componenets you intended to add.

I'd submit that most the time, 1) people don't fully understand everything that needs to be addressed up front, or 2) people don't have the budget to address everything right up front. In which case one is forced to draw a line in the sand at stages until they can complete the build. Dirtman's $10k figure way back at the begining of this thread might have sounded redonk.....but you'd be surprised. Not many people have that kind of jack to throw down right away, nor do they think it's really gonna cost that much to drive a cool looking lifted jeep. When doing it in stages, you just need to have a decent slush fund on the side to address issues as they pop up......hopefully when you have upgrades planned, but sometimes the upgrades aren't on your schedule....but rather on the jeep's.