MystikFix

so the problem I'm facing is this... I was planning on ordering the RK Max Travel 3.5" kit with OME shocks and stabilizer, the RK rear track bar, RK bump stops, an Adams front drive shaft, Spydertrax 1.5" wheel spacers all for about $2700. I can't get anywhere near that with Metal Cloak within my budget of $3k (including install).

TheDirtman

Is a local shop telling you to buy this kit? How did you choose this set up? Why 3.5" of height with 35's? The metal cloak kits come with raised rear track bar brackets which is better then using an adjustable track bar. The metal cloak kits come with tuned shocks for $1399. Add driveshaft which really is not needed for $450 and wheel spacers for $200. That leaves you nearly $1k for install which should only cost around $400

MystikFix

this was actually the kit suggested to me by Northridge 4x4. they seem to really like the RK kits. I plan on eventually moving up to 37's plus I'd like the extra clearance for the 3.5" lift and since I'm going with the 3.5" lift, everything I've been reading suggests that I upgrade the front driveshaft to prevent future issues.

TheDirtman

OK, its your money and your jeep. Realize that an aftermarket driveshaft does require maintenance and at the actual heigh you will be at (more then 3.5") your caster will be low and will have increased bump steer. Look into high steer kits if you want a better ride and you should really be on a full set of control arms at that height. When you move to 37's you will likely need new wheels as even with spacers the moto wheels are not going to have clearance at the frame and to have full steering. You want to net out to around 3.5" bs for a 37x12.5" tire.

Good luck with the build.

MystikFix

thanks for the tips. just curious...how would any of this be different if I went with Metal Cloak kit over the Rock Krawler kit?

TheDirtman

On a short arm it really does not matter as far as the manufacturers. These issues are due to the tires and the lift height. The main differences in short arm kits are the joints that are used on the control arms and the coils since they all share the same factory mounting points. 3.5" of lift and 37's should be an extreme set up for serious wheelers but in todays world with the JK crowd it is common place just driving down the road and is total overkill.

Mike H.

When i bought my JK I was set on Rock Krawler. Years of being in an XJ and wheeling with TJ's, back then Rock Krawler was the bomb.
So, bought the JK and went to a local shop (that I had utilized in building my XJ) that deals only in Jeeps and has so since the early 50's. I told them it was a daily driver, and 4-5 times a year weekend warrior and I wanted as good a ride as possible from a lifted 2dr. They recommended Metal Cloak (and they sell/install everything under the sun as well as build custom and buggies). I'd never heard of them, though they were trying to sell me an evil villain video game and left disappointed and confused.
I started doing research, seemed they were onto something, still knew RK had been around a long time... went back to the shop and asked a tonne of questions.
Thinking I was getting famboozled (maybe they had better $ margin) I wandered into the shop and talked to some of the installers/fabricators/trouble shooters... the responses were all in line with the front of the house.
I started out with 8 arms and coil spacers/shock extensions (budget), and that in itself was a big improvement over stock. No kidding, just replacing the arms made a rather noticeable difference to the good. Now, I'm sitting on a full 3.5" Game Changer/OME setup (took some time with budget restraints) with Synergy steering... and the rig is a pleasure to drive. it is a firm-ish ride, but there is no harshness what-so-ever. Think - compare a 60's muscle car to a modern Toyota Camry. One feels plush, but is hash and jarring, the other feels firm but is smooth and stable.

I'm with Dirtman... if it's a daily driver and you want ride comfort/compliance, Metal Cloak or Synergy... (Synergy was not making arms when I was building, if I were building today, it would be a darn hard choice to make).
And, like Dirtman said, it's your money, do what you feel is right... but, with my XJ I learned building it 2 and 3 times to get it "just right" is a lot more expensive than doing it right the first time, even if it means doing it in stages. So when I got my JK I vow'd not to go down that road again. The last stage of my build was 3.5" coils and shocks... up till then it was building it "right"... armor... wheels/tires... arms/driveshafts... trackbars/steering... coils/shocks... took a while, but never had to buy twice and am totally tickled with the end result.

MystikFix

ok, you guys talked me into it, lol. I've been looking real hard at the Metal Cloak stuff and I think I'm gonna go with them. they are a little more expensive so I may have to do it in stages. do you guys think it would be ok to go without the rear arms for a while and just put front lowers, front and rear track bars, coils and shocks?

nthinuf

You can absolutely build in stages. A set of arms (or brackets) for caster correction, then add a set of rear arms, then fill in the other two if/when you get around to it. On a 4door, the rear should be fine with stock arms for a while. Just be sure to cycle the suspension and check tire clearances and driveshaft angles. (I ran for several years at 3.5"+ with stock rear arms, no issues with the driveshaft. But it is nice to be able to reposition that axle)

Front trackbar is a good idea, but as noted previously, you might start with a rear bracket to raise the roll center. You can always add a rear trackbar at some future point if you have extra money to spend.

MystikFix

a buddy of mine is telling me that I really don't need the rear arms at all. can someone explain if and why I would? I'm running 35's and he seems to swear up and down that it would be money I could spend elsewhere. hes saying that i wont rub nor need to worry about the rear drive shaft. is he giving me good advise? I'm new to all this so I'm really torn on which direction to go.