Rock Krawler Suspension Open Tech Line for JK Forum Members

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05-09-2013, 07:53 AM

#21

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Dexter Morgan

The 3.5 in flex seems to have all the same components as the 2.5in max except the spring size. They price out the same too. Is there any other differences?

Sent from my bunker deep in enemy territory

The 2 kits like you stated are the same components, the only difference is going to be the coils and the the length of the threaded center pins in the sway bar links. This helps keep our kits as upgradeable as they are!

RK

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05-09-2013, 08:00 AM

#22

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Mancinis34

I just ordered the 2.5 Stock Mod kit for my 2012 JKU and I wanted to know if I will need to extend the brake lines or if I will need to do anything with the rear tail pipe? I thought I read that it may need some modification on the 2012 and newer but that may just be for the 3.5 kit.

Thanks for your help

With your factory arms you will find that they are still going to bind up before your brake lines become taunt. The 2012+ may require you to disconnect the brake line bracket from the axle because of the new routing compared to years past. The stainless steel extended lines are not a bad upgrade if your ever planing on more components in the future that will add to your articulation. As far as the tail pipe there is nothing that needs to be done. What you might be referring to is the crossover pipe on the new 3.6L Pentastar motor. You will want to look into an exhaust spacer or an aftermarket front driveshaft to clearance that pipe when you lift them.

RK

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05-09-2013, 08:03 AM

#23

sm_rubi

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This is great to see! Thanks Rock Krawler for helping to make this community even better!

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05-09-2013, 08:29 AM

#24

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Flyer

Why was my trackbar bolt hitting/gouging my right rear bumpstop bracket after installing the 2.5 X Factor 2.5 on my JK? I had to reverse it and shave the bolt head down. Seems like a weird design issue. Anything we could have done to prevent that?

There are a few things that can cause an issue like that. First we would double check the pinion angle in the rear, if that is off it can pitch the bump stops at more of an angle and possibly cause contact. Also make sure the bump stops if they are ours angle forward not to the rear. if you want take a picture of the pinion angle and one of the bump stops and post them up we might catch something thats out of whack.

RK

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05-09-2013, 08:44 AM

#25

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Jibba

Have the 2.5 Flex kit on my 2dr. The front is currently about an inch higher than the rear(stock bumper, no winch). The lift has been on for about a month. should i expect it to settle any? Would the rear spring correcttion wedges do anything for me?

How is the rear on your JK loaded? Spare tire, bumper, nothing? It honestly could very well be a loading condition.

RK

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05-09-2013, 08:53 AM

#26

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mudbug79

I have the same kit on my 2dr Rubicon. I installed it over the weekend. It looks like I am having the same issue. I was hoping that it just needed to settle some.

Check our reply to Jibba and let us know!

RK

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05-09-2013, 08:56 AM

#27

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by mpkelley20

A buddy of mine runs it on his 2 door with same results. He's actually taller with a 2.5" lift than my JKU on a 3.5" lift. The issue is the front progressive coils have zero weight to compress the first 3 wraps or so. Throw on a heavy front bumper and that will take care of your reverse rake. They make the coils like this so you don't get sagging with heavy bumpers. Unfortunately when you aren't running them, you get the results you are seeing. It's more pronounced with the 2 doors since its a lighter vehicle as well.

This can absolutely be the case! Thanks for chiming in.

RK

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05-09-2013, 08:58 AM

#28

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by justanothermoparman

I am going to be ordering the 2.5 stock mod with bilstine 5100, extended break lines, bump stops and exhaust spacer. I have a ' 12 JKU Sport and will be running stock wheels and tires, do I need any thing else. Thanks for your help.

Sent from my MB855 using JK-Forum

It sounds like you have pretty much all your bases covered! Good luck with the build.

RK

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05-09-2013, 09:05 AM

#29

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by tayconjk

I recently ordered a 3.5 x factor and will be returning from deployment in about a month to install it. I'm trying to use this time to figure out the "little secrets" for this lift. Are there any special tools or anything that anybody would suggest to make it easier? Any tips? Tricks?

Thanks

Taylor

Nothing other the a few big wrenches! 1 1/2" for the jam nuts on the lower arms and a 1 5/16" for the uppers and track bars! If you have any questions during the install feel free to give the shop a call!

RK

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05-09-2013, 09:36 AM

#30

Rock Krawler Suspension

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BIGNICK

Will be buying your 2.5 stock mod system with rk front lowers and rear uppers. I have a rubi and would like to have a fix'd length sway bar links.( I've noticed the adjustable one don't seem to hold up to great at full flex)Could you tell me the fix"d sizes or possibly sizes for the front and rears or tell me another route, I don't wanna loose the e-disco.

We do not offer a fixed length for the links just because every vehicle can sit a little differently and a fixed length link may work fine for one vehicle but not the next. Not sure where the idea of our heim jointed sway bar link not holding up to the articulation of a rubicon came from be we an assure you there is no issue with running that style setup on a rubi or non-rubi. You will not lose your e-disco feature with our heim jointed links, you will notice that we do recommend that if you are going to articulate the jeep to its full potential that you disconnect manually. You have the potential for so much more droop with our kits that you can have the sway bar and link become in line with each other on the drooping side and if it pops to the front when returning to ride height instead of the way it originally came from then you will bend the link's center pin. That is why in situations like that we recommend that you manually disconnect.

RK

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