Originally Posted by Slupe

2012 JKUR and a similar problem. A little more clearance but track bar paint is scuffed from contact with exhaust. Ideas?

Originally Posted by Maertz

Do you guys sell just the coil spring offset perches thats included in your 3" rear stretch? Also how far offset is it im thinking it would almost have to be 4" as they seem off just being lifted. I doubt there that big though?

Originally Posted by nr6h

RK, i'll be installing a 2.5 X-Factor on a 2 door with stock bumpers so I' ll yield about 3.5 to 4 in of lift soulg I follow the CA setting for 3.5 or stick with the 2.5 setting Thanks

Originally Posted by SabrToothSqrl

We may need more than one thread!

I have a 2012 Rubicon on a BDS lift. I believe it's 3". I know this because I'm fitting 35s nicely, and because the Fox Shox stickers say "BSD" on them.

Anyway; that's the background. That and those stupid brake line relocation brackets. (I have longer brake lines on order, and will be fixing it right shortly).

Also, I had a 5.5 Longarm kit on my last TJ from RK, and it was AWESOME. It worked well on road, and off road, it was CRAZY how much it would flex. It needed retainer springs up front, and limiting straps all around! I rarely needed my lockers, as it's flex meant it was always planted.

So, my question;

I LOVE the way my BDS kit rides ON-ROAD. But from what I can tell, I have all stock control arms. The track bars also look stock and look to be on brackets.

I'm not looking to change the height, (all spring lift, no spacers). I'm also no looking to change the ride (the shocks seem to work very well).

I AM looking for some more flex and to ditch the stock control arms.

Is there any reason I can't build this as I go? For example, install 2 new lower front control arms from RK, then install 2 rear lower, then install 2 front upper, etc?

Is it not ideal to mix makes? If it was my Jeep, I'd have gone strait to RK, but I bought the jeep like this, and the dealer said they'd give me the full 3/36 warranty on everything... so... there's that lol.

anyway, I love the videos, love the products, and love the color PDF installs. Keep it coming! the more I know about your products before I buy, the more likely I am to BUY.

Originally Posted by Napalm90

Nother question. I am looking at getting one of your 3.5 systems. What shocks would you recommend I pruchase, or are the emulsion shocks you sell pretty much perfect for the lift? Thank you!!!!

Originally Posted by mendiola21

I run my jku on 3.5max travel on Fox piggybacksfactory series sitting on 35 inch toyo's aired down to 28 psi. But everything seems to be really rough like every bump I hit is unbearable and it sounds like a clicking sound coming from either the upper shock mount or spring perch area everytime I hit a bump

I used to run a teraflex 2.5 coils lift and changed it out for those exact reasons above and some other limitations.

I have checked all the torque specs on track bars and control arms and they are good. Also had the jeep aligned and was actually told I was barely off.

Any recommendations?

Originally Posted by AaronJK

Just went out and checked mine. Shop had it in wrong. So i fixed it. Always check it afterward so you know it's done right. That is unless this is wrong lol.

Sent using my SuperSmartThinky Phone

Originally Posted by zero_traction69

Thought I would ask sorta a dumb question. On the rear track bar I have it set to length 39 3/4. 3.5 dual sport life. My question is that length doesn't seam to work for me. I had to go about an inch longer is this a common thing? I know those are starting measurement in your instruction, but what would cause it to change that much? Control arms are to lenght just check everything again.

Originally Posted by Terry Hesticles

1. I have a 2.5" stock mod + LCAs on my 2013 JKU and my springs are all oriented the right way (rear springs have the part# sticker facing back) and my right rear dips a little, maybe half an inch. Any other tricks to get this to even out? I have a quarter of a tank of gas and it's still dipping. I have no other bolt ons besides my full size spare (33 tire on 15 aluminum wheel mounted on stock carrier).

2. The instructions state to remove the rear sway bar links when installing the lift, but that's it. Should these be reconnected? I reconnected mine afterwards. I know some kits require moving stock front to back or vise versa, but my kit has the disconnects up front, so if it's the latter then I'll pass.

Is #2 possibly the cause for #1?

Originally Posted by Archie251

Hey RK guys. I'm trying to decide on which RK lift. I'm pretty new to all this so excuse me if I ask something lame.

I have a 2009 Rubicon 4dr and I'll be running 35 inch tires. I don't have a winch and bumpers yet but plan to do both, including tire carrier and possibly a roof rack, in the near future. It will be not only a daily driver but something I work out of 3-4 hours per day (not all driving) so on road and in town drivability is really important but I want to be able to four wheel some pretty gnarly (I know that's subjective) stuff too.

I'm looking at either the 2.5 max travel or the 3.5 flex. Both appear to consist of the same components (obviously sized differently) so what difference is there other than height? Am I going to get more articulation with a max travel or is it only a max travel as compared to the 2.5 flex? I'm not really concerned with the look as both will look cool enough for me but I do want the best performing system.

Thanks
Archie