Rock Krawler Suspension Open Tech Line for JK Forum Members
#731
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Adam C
The following users liked this post:
TrailBadger (01-29-2018)
#733
Steering Linkage
I have the 3.5" X-Factor mid arm kit on my 2015 JKU Rubicon, Im currently running 37" Coopers on 17" MB11 Wheels and am curious if you would recommend doing a Draglink flip or leaving it at factory position when I upgrade? I'd prefer to not go through the trouble of flipping it if it isn't absolutely necessary. I've narrowed it down to the RockKrawler HD steering, Synergy or Teraflex. The other two brands mainly due to the fact that their quite a bit cheaper than the RK solution and I am on a budget. Any feedback you can provide is appreciated!
#734
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
I have the 3.5" X-Factor mid arm kit on my 2015 JKU Rubicon, Im currently running 37" Coopers on 17" MB11 Wheels and am curious if you would recommend doing a Draglink flip or leaving it at factory position when I upgrade? I'd prefer to not go through the trouble of flipping it if it isn't absolutely necessary. I've narrowed it down to the RockKrawler HD steering, Synergy or Teraflex. The other two brands mainly due to the fact that their quite a bit cheaper than the RK solution and I am on a budget. Any feedback you can provide is appreciated!
Thanks!
Adam C
The following users liked this post:
TrailBadger (01-29-2018)
#735
#736
JK Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: So Cal and AZ
Posts: 36
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Hey RK, are you the sole source for the small thread zerk fittings used in your JK sway bar links? I purchased a set from a Washington vendor (wink) and the zerks had no inside ball! the only zerks I can find locally are the larger ball joint size.
Thanks
Thanks
#737
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
There are plenty of companies that produce 10-32 zerks but not many (if any) stores stock them. But, our Zerks for the sway bar links don't have a check ball in them.
#738
JK Enthusiast
I am about to pull the trigger on a new lift for my 2015 JKU Sport. It currently has the Teraflex Performance leveling kit (taller front springs, rear spacer) netting 1" of lift. I am running 33s.
My mechanic is suggesting a Rough Country 3.25" lift because he's familiar with them, but I am skeptical about the overall quality, as well possibly needing a new front driveshaft. I am looking hard into the RK 2.5" Flex or Max Travel lifts. It looks like the main difference is the Max Travel has rear upper control arms included.
Is there anything else I would need to plan to do that's not included in this kit? I'm hoping to move up to 35s, but that is at least a year out. This is a daily driver with some light offroad for work, but the possibility of more for fun.
Thanks in advance. Jim
My mechanic is suggesting a Rough Country 3.25" lift because he's familiar with them, but I am skeptical about the overall quality, as well possibly needing a new front driveshaft. I am looking hard into the RK 2.5" Flex or Max Travel lifts. It looks like the main difference is the Max Travel has rear upper control arms included.
Is there anything else I would need to plan to do that's not included in this kit? I'm hoping to move up to 35s, but that is at least a year out. This is a daily driver with some light offroad for work, but the possibility of more for fun.
Thanks in advance. Jim
#739
JK Super Freak
Rough Country. Run. Run away fast. And ditch that mechanic for suggesting it.
I will add this: You do NOT need a mechanic to install the Max Travel or Flex kits. Period. You just need to have some minor mechanical ability and know how to use some basic tools and a jack.
Either of these is a great kit. I have the X-Factor myself (replaces all control arms - build thread link in my signature). You'd probably want to look into adding exhaust spacers to push the exhaust crossover back to clear the driveshaft when the front axle is at full droop (provided your shocks don't bottom out first). Either that, or replace the exhaust Y-pipe with an aftermarket one that moves the exhaust cross over behind the trans crossmember.
In any case, you need to keep something very important in mind. Whenever you start changing the stock suspension, it will affect other parts of the suspension and necessitate other changes. It's a bit of a slippery slope. Read TheDirtMan's sticky on lifts.
I will add this: You do NOT need a mechanic to install the Max Travel or Flex kits. Period. You just need to have some minor mechanical ability and know how to use some basic tools and a jack.
Either of these is a great kit. I have the X-Factor myself (replaces all control arms - build thread link in my signature). You'd probably want to look into adding exhaust spacers to push the exhaust crossover back to clear the driveshaft when the front axle is at full droop (provided your shocks don't bottom out first). Either that, or replace the exhaust Y-pipe with an aftermarket one that moves the exhaust cross over behind the trans crossmember.
In any case, you need to keep something very important in mind. Whenever you start changing the stock suspension, it will affect other parts of the suspension and necessitate other changes. It's a bit of a slippery slope. Read TheDirtMan's sticky on lifts.
The following 2 users liked this post by ShutterBug:
Rock Krawler Suspension (01-08-2018),
TrailBadger (01-29-2018)
#740
JK Enthusiast
Thanks. My mechanic is a good friend and very good, but he admitted he's only installed the RC lifts for other clients. I don't have the space to install much of anything, and what would take me all day he can usually do in a few hours on a weekend in his shop. Also, we trade out his mechanic skills for my skills at the gun range.
I've read Dirtman's sticky, and he and several others are recommending control arm relocation brackets for now, and a lift sometime in the future if I move up to 35s. I may go that route for now until I learn more. What I want to stay away from is starting something and causing more problems later that have to be corrected. I want to know all of my costs up front.
I've read Dirtman's sticky, and he and several others are recommending control arm relocation brackets for now, and a lift sometime in the future if I move up to 35s. I may go that route for now until I learn more. What I want to stay away from is starting something and causing more problems later that have to be corrected. I want to know all of my costs up front.