Rednroll

Could this be corrected by adding longer bumper stops?

gnarly_mike

sort of accurate..unfortunately

gnarly_mike

not sure if trolling...I’m not adding bunpstops to limit my jeeps suspension travel to prevent an arm from contacting where it shouldn’t.

gnarly_mike

ive been busy rerouting the exhaust and it’s been raining almost constantly here so I haven’t had a chance to cycle the suspension yet. Haven’t even driven it except around the block.

I clearanced the fender wells, but not so much that if I hadn’t, the original material that was clearanced would prevent the arms from hitting the body mounts. They are extremely close. In my mind I see no way at all that they don’t hit even on small road variations which is pretty disappointing when it seems like another little bend in the arms could’ve remedied this...

Tire size is seemingly irrelevant in this case because I see others with the same arm setup on bigger or smaller tires with their arms sitting at the same angle relative to the ground, or even more parallel than mine which of course would denote that they’re sitting lower lift-wise. In both of these cases the tires will hit the stock fender well long after the arms hit the body mount...it appears anyway.


In any case, I would like to see pictures of the body mount clearancing you’re talking about. I’ve already come to terms with the fact that I’ll have to be doing that one way or another. So I’d like to check it out. I welded in some lower shock relocation brackets a few days ago which will take a small bit of uptravel away, but based on what I saw, it will only prevent me from rubbing my tire as quick on the wheel well. So I should have virtually the same amount of uptravel.

Thanks for for the help. I’m not trying to flame y’all like some people in this thread, just trying to get to the bottom of it and fix it. I had never heard anything about this possible issue when I did very extensive research on long arm kits. Almost went with RPM Fabs new triangulated rear long arm made with aluminum because I tried to order the RK aluminum and was told it no longer exists...however RPM Fab didn’t get theirs up for sale soon enough so here I am.

Rednroll

Just discussing to provide options for the problem. Absolutely, No need for your "not sure if trolling" comments. If you don't want options to consider, then so be it. Hope you enjoy the long arm lift with smaller sized tires.

gnarly_mike

I said that because I wasn’t sure....I only glanced through this thread and it seems to be 30% people patronizing RK and people who bought their products so that’s why I said it. But yeah I’m not interested in limiting my axle travel more than when I had stock control arms. That’s out of the question for me.

jadmt

he said in his initial post he was absolutely opposed to adding more bumpstop so I understand his response.

Rednroll

Thanks, I missed that part.

gnarly_mike

@Rock Krawler Suspension pics of trimmed body mounts? I just loaded a bunch of mulch in the cargo space and on the way home it was banging into the rear lower arms.

gnarly_mike

Well since I’m not getting any response I went and tried to find what kit Rock Krawler was referring to when they stated that they had another kit that required cutting of the rear body mounts, discovered that it was their adventure series and that the mount is clearanced for an upper control arm mounted at the frame, but needless to say their instructions don’t even mention it as they use the same instructions for their 3 link long arm from 2016. @Rock Krawler Suspension I find it absolutely sad that you guys can’t update your god awful installation instructions to reflect newer year models where there are discrepancies, not to mention that you can’t even provide an instruction for a whole new kit. That’s pretty sad coming from a company like y’all. It would take one day to write the instructions basing them off your older instructions. It’s so simple yet it hasn’t been revised in 3+ years. Not even for new system? Unless I missed the new instructions somehow and unless the guy that made the thread on his adventure series lift missed them, then they don’t exist. He stated that he had to wing it on trimming the stuff. No pictures and no instruction. That’s just piss poor. I expect more from Rock Krawler. Guess I shouldn’t.

I marked up my mounts where they were hitting and actually bent the body mount on the passenger side from on road driving, preparing to cut, then took it to the creek near my house to flex it out and check things over. Somehow, I guess due to the bushings in the frame side mounts and due to axle shift, the arms weren’t hitting the mounts when one side was drooped and one was stuffed. For now I will leave them as is, but I’ll probably end up trimming them a bit to account for on road driving where the whole rear end compresses and not just one side at a time. I drove home with about 300lbs of mulch in the cargo area and I was banging the mounts on the way home. Bent the tab on the passenger side and cut through the powdercoat and into the metal on the arms.

This is would be a very simple thing to fix, along with the angle at which the joint enters the axle side LCA bracket, so as to prevent those from sitting on the bracket at all times. A simple slight bend in the arm would be all it took. I don’t understand why this was never factored into the equation. Using CAD software and files from Jeep you should’ve encountered this in design. It’s as if you designed the kit then just put it for sale and wait for issues to arise afterwards.

Something also needs to be to be said/shown about the brake line on the drivers side for at least the 2012 in the instructions, can’t speak to the newer years but I suspect it’s the same for at least a few years. The brake line is literally right where the front mounts weld up and needs to be straightened out and pushed in between the frame and body somehow. This is very difficult to do without screwing up your hard lines. Why Jeep decided to put them there, I have no idea. But you guys need to address that in the instructions. Brake line reroute, along with the exhaust reroute, which could’ve had better guidance as well. The exhaust reroute took me longer than the whole rest of the install, doing it myself in my driveway. I ended up going behind the transfer case and moving the y pipe collector back almost to the hanger in front of the resonator. The driver side tube before the y is very close to the control arm brackets, so it needs to be shielded somehow.

Im happy with the kit otherwise. It drives on road much better than before, and it flexes effortlessly, I don’t even feel the axles articulating on slow crawling. The install was a bitch but it’s done and just have to work out kinks. This is expected with a kit like this that replaces everything, but I feel like as a company, you guys need to and could have done a much better job with installation instructions and guidance, and mentioning various issues that will arise. I had a hard time even finding somewhere to fully articulate the Jeep seeing as i don’t know where I can get it done with a forklift. I have Fox 12” travel shocks on all four corners, but have metalcloak front lower relocation brackets, and EVO rear lower relocation brackets/skids. Still had droop in the rear and a little uptravel up front.