Rough Country or Teraflex 2.5BB??
I'm not sure you need the brakeline relocation bracket with the TF either. I asked this when I ordered from Northridge and was told I didn't.
I guess the thing to remember is that the RC lifts the rear 2" so the brake lines relocation adapters aren't needed. When I installed mine, I pretty much dropped the axel to the floor and there was no snaggin' on anything... I LOVE my RC lift. Works great, looks great! That being said, the TF kit has been installed on a crazy number of jeeps and also works well... whatever you decide on... HAVE FUN!
***I had larger bumpstops from my previous lift... so it's all good!
***I had larger bumpstops from my previous lift... so it's all good!

Ok the kit without shocks is designed for a certain demographic. Yes if you buy the basic bb and disconnect your sway bars and do your best to obtain max articulation; yes you will hurt your stock shocks, but if you are lifting your JK to participate in the Black Top Queen beauty pageant you will not ever have a shock or bump stop issue. We made multiple kits for multiple people. Hope this helps you make your decision.
So if I buy your kit, 2.5" lift with shocks.
And I am disconnected (front only) I will not have any problems with rub or brake lines or over compressing the shocks? If so Im ordering this kit today
Im running 08 Sahara Unlimited with Rubi wheels/tires and manually (wrench method) disconnected front swaybar (only while off-road obviously).
Thanks
Last edited by racer83l; Mar 11, 2008 at 08:53 AM.
Ok the kit without shocks is designed for a certain demographic. Yes if you buy the basic bb and disconnect your sway bars and do your best to obtain max articulation; yes you will hurt your stock shocks, but if you are lifting your JK to participate in the Black Top Queen beauty pageant you will not ever have a shock or bump stop issue. We made multiple kits for multiple people. Hope this helps you make your decision.
I posted in a thread were we discussed measurements and pictures. In that thread we noted that any shock over 15 inches compressed length will be damaged on full compression with the stock bump stops (with no lift, or with any lift!). If your extenders add length to the stock Rubi shocks (the only ones I measured) you will have trouble. There is only about 1/4 inch to spare in stock form under full compression when the urethane stock bump stop gets squished a little. Under a really hard slam it appears that the JK engineers assumed some squish in the shock bushings themselves

I can post a link to a thread on this forum. In addition I can provide pictures with written explanations if you would like to show it to your engineering team. I feel you have an issue here. Including, and charging for, proper bump stops with your "shock extender" kits would eliminate the problem. There is likely also an issue with the front sway bar links (at least on the Rubi), but I would need to verify it.
Please understand I am not trying to slam a vendor here. I can communicate via PM or email if you prefer.
Please do not take this discussion off line. I think it is valuable for lots of people who are newbies. The discussion benefits all bc I'm sure both TF and RC want the consumer to make the right decision.
Personally I think that max articulation causing compression failures of the shock is unlikely. A sharp edged bump like a pot hole is much more likely to bottom the suspension against the stops. And a bump in the road will force the axle into the stops with more force causing the bump stops to do their job and deform to absorb the hit. If the bump stops are not long enough to prevent over compression, then they are too short for any road driving.
I posted in a thread were we discussed measurements and pictures. In that thread we noted that any shock over 15 inches compressed length will be damaged on full compression with the stock bump stops (with no lift, or with any lift!). If your extenders add length to the stock Rubi shocks (the only ones I measured) you will have trouble. There is only about 1/4 inch to spare in stock form under full compression when the urethane stock bump stop gets squished a little. Under a really hard slam it appears that the JK engineers assumed some squish in the shock bushings themselves
I can post a link to a thread on this forum. In addition I can provide pictures with written explanations if you would like to show it to your engineering team. I feel you have an issue here. Including, and charging for, proper bump stops with your "shock extender" kits would eliminate the problem. There is likely also an issue with the front sway bar links (at least on the Rubi), but I would need to verify it.
Please understand I am not trying to slam a vendor here. I can communicate via PM or email if you prefer.
I posted in a thread were we discussed measurements and pictures. In that thread we noted that any shock over 15 inches compressed length will be damaged on full compression with the stock bump stops (with no lift, or with any lift!). If your extenders add length to the stock Rubi shocks (the only ones I measured) you will have trouble. There is only about 1/4 inch to spare in stock form under full compression when the urethane stock bump stop gets squished a little. Under a really hard slam it appears that the JK engineers assumed some squish in the shock bushings themselves

I can post a link to a thread on this forum. In addition I can provide pictures with written explanations if you would like to show it to your engineering team. I feel you have an issue here. Including, and charging for, proper bump stops with your "shock extender" kits would eliminate the problem. There is likely also an issue with the front sway bar links (at least on the Rubi), but I would need to verify it.
Please understand I am not trying to slam a vendor here. I can communicate via PM or email if you prefer.
So if I buy your kit, 2.5" lift with shocks.
And I am disconnected (front only) I will not have any problems with rub or brake lines or over compressing the shocks? If so Im ordering this kit today
Im running 08 Sahara Unlimited with Rubi wheels/tires and manually (wrench method) disconnected front swaybar (only while off-road obviously).
Thanks
And I am disconnected (front only) I will not have any problems with rub or brake lines or over compressing the shocks? If so Im ordering this kit today
Im running 08 Sahara Unlimited with Rubi wheels/tires and manually (wrench method) disconnected front swaybar (only while off-road obviously).
Thanks
That is correct, but nothing I repeat nothing is fool proof. Anything can be broken if abused. We have wheeled the piss out of our two JKs both had the 2.5" kit. One with our shocks and one without and no damage was done to either vehicle with the exception of a few scratches.
That is correct, but nothing I repeat nothing is fool proof. Anything can be broken if abused. We have wheeled the piss out of our two JKs both had the 2.5" kit. One with our shocks and one without and no damage was done to either vehicle with the exception of a few scratches.
How about problems with stock front sway bar links on electric disco model Jeeps?
No problems their either, but since you guys question the bump stops, sway bar links, and brake line extensions so often our R&D will be looking at the 2 door jeep that still has the 2.5" kit again.
OK, so I'm looking at a 2.5" lift, with 33's eventually (sooner rather than later). I will keep my stock wheels and tires for now. 08 unlimited Sahara, so I have the 18" wheels. Should I go with the TF BB lift, BB with OE shock adapters or with the BB with shocks? I'm looking for the best ride on the road (closest to oem) as I do a lot of traveling and this is my DD, but with the looks and capability for some mild off road. Most important for now is the ride but I want it to look good and have a bit more clearance.
Do I need wheel spacers with the stock rims and 33's?
Do I need wheel spacers with the stock rims and 33's?


