This was a something long overdue. As I prepare my Jeep to be a capable yet comfortable overlanding rig I knew that the sound and vibration that is unbearable after 45 minutes at 70mph needed addressing. I decided to install Dynamat Xtreme on the entirety of the tub, using 1/4” Dynaliner mats in footwell areas, then Armorlite floors on top. 3 levels that all help reduce noise in the cab. When I install the Ursa Minor top in 2 weeks, the noise will be reduced even further since it has much more insulation than the factory tops.

I started off with removing all the “goopy” sound deadener from the tub, partially for aesthetics, but mainly because they don’t do a great job, and it was in the areas where I wanted install the 1/4 foam pads, and there would have been fitment issues with the Armorlite floor panels if they weren’t removed. I didn’t feel like using dry ice as I wanted to find a simpler way to get it off.




I mixed dish soap and water and sprayed it all over and let it soak in and soften, then a chisel and dead blow hammer did the trick. If you have an air hammer it would be even easier.




Water gets soaked into this stuff and gets trapped underneath and speeds up rusting, a common rust area on these tubs you will have to watch out for is the driver floor pan. It gets exposed to the most water and when the carpets get wet and it soaks down to the goop, its impossible to get it out. Here’s what my driver pan looked like after years of getting caught in the rain with no top…. never again.



New floorpan installed, its time to clean up the rest of the sections and put a quick coat of paint on any exposed metal, doesn’t need to be pretty since its all getting covered anyways.






Time to start actually putting stuff in now, I did this over the course of about 2 weeks totaling about 16 hours.

The fateful first piece laid down, turned out to work pretty well.



Cargo section done, around the ingress cubby was a bit tricky, but a little patience goes a long way when laying down this stuff.



Fender wells and jack area all done, this was when I realized it was more of a bear than I first expected.



Over Veteran’s Day weekend I was able to pull the driver seat out and went to town on it for 3 days.



Got all the Dynamat Xtreme in, all the way up to the firewall.



1/4” Dynaliner pads installed, placement on these is critical for the Armorlite floors to fit, as they are much thicker than factory carpets.



Ignore all the wiring, I decided to run all of my interior accessories wiring now before the floors were all in. They will be all terminated on a Blue Sea fuse block mounted under the 60% Goose Gear delete.



Wiring diagram of all the interior electronics



Moment of truth! getting the front floors in was a bear, had to do allot of finagling to get everything to fit nicely.



Took it out around town and it was a night and day difference. Well worth the effort! What used to be a glorified tuna can on wheels now feels like a luxury SUV going down the road. Theres nothing to do about the noise from the windshield, but vibration from the tires and noise from the road has been completely suppressed. It has also brought little minor creaks and rattles that went otherwise unnoticed, and now I know I can pinpoint some noise coming from my tailgate and some of the dash trim.

Parts list:
(2) Dynamat Xtreme 36sqft (ended up only using 1/2)
(1) Dynaliner 1/4” foam 12sqft
(1) Armorlite front & rear flooring

 

Man, seeing those pictures of the factory goo brings back bad memories. I recall cursing that stuff when I bedlined my tub. That was the worst part of the job.

The final result looks really nice and durable. Will be interested to see what things look like when the Goose Gear goes in.

 

Thanks, yeah that goes the same for here, it makes a big mess and is a pain to get it all off. I had to install the Goose Gear system in a couple weeks ago to test fit and mark holes to drill and put a rivnut in the tub. the 07-10 JKUs don’t have the same threaded inserts as the 11+ so the rear plate requires some drilling, snapped a quick pic when everything was in minus the rear 40% seat, and the fridge enclosure on the left side of the rear plate.


Essentially it will look like this but without the cabinets on the right side

 

@MD-08JKUR do you think 20 sq Ft would be enough? What are the 1/4 pads for?

It all looks good. Have you installed the goose Gear yet?

 

Yes, I have. Sorry, haven't gotten around to posting about that yet. Here are some pics of it all together

I got my hands on a used set of 2011+ rear carpets , the earlier models aren't compatible with the plates

Here you can see on the passenger side I added a Blue Sea 12V & USB outlet with a voltmeter on it, as well as a 2 way rocker switch for the auxiliary interior lights


Here's with the Kitchen opened up, it makes for just enough standing room between the stove and tailgate table to conveniently have your prep surface right there, then just a quick turn around and you are at your cooking surface

Here's some of the other custom touches I did to the plates, Blue Sea 12V and USB outlet (minus voltmeter) and 3 way switch for my rear glass lights on the back part of the passenger side. I haven't cleaned up the wiring and put it in a loom and secured it to the side of the top yet, but that will be done soon. I just finally installed the lights last night

Outlet for the Fridge on the driver side, I need to put the cable in a track so that it can more easily run along the slide without worrying about catching on anything and causing damage

And finally, the Blue Sea fuse block under the 60% delete, this delivers power to all of my auxiliary interior accessories, all of my exterior stuff is controlled with a Switch-Pros SP8100. It all came out pretty good and I'm happy with the results. By no means am I a professional at any of this stuff but I just take my time and do it right, I wanted troubleshooting or adding circuits to be easy, and everything very simplistic and safe

 

Did not read the first part of your post haha, sorry.

I used just about 40sqft and that was just about every square inch of the tub. looks like the 32sqft I have left will be used on my 72 Camaro project... The 1/4 pads just add additional sound deadening and vibration absorbing in certain areas like the foot wells. I also had to place these strategically to avoid fitment issues with the Armorlite floors

 

Well I ordered some dynamat off your install, I’ll see how it goes. Thanks for the update.

 

Have you used that fridge much, or at all, without the insulation around it? I'm curious how much the insulation really makes a difference. I use my Dometic fridge a lot, but my trips are typically a lot shorter than a long overland one and I've never really had an issue with having to conserve power or the fridge holding temp. Have always wondered if the insulation round the fridge really mattered much. Also, my fridge is not on a slide out, but I do have a raised "trunk" platform that it is on in the back......we all have the same damn issue I think in that can never open the lid all the way so it's always a bit frustrating when you have to dig around in it while awkwardly holding the lid open.

The install looks great. I've seen a few rigs with the Goose Gear and if someone can get over the price tag, that stuff always looks awesom.

 

No I haven’t, this is my first fridge. I’ve always used a cooler and I was “that guy” looking for places to buy ice after day 3 or 4. I have a number of friends with ARBs and Dometics and most of them have added the insulation bags, they’re not that expensive and help out just a little bit. They noticed once it gets down to temperature it doesn’t need to work as much. I also like the looks of it and there are little pockets on it for smaller flat items like the bottle opener. As for the issues with the lid, one of the reasons I went with the ARB is the lid pops off entirely if I need it to. Being on the slide makes for a bit more easier access, but if I had the rear glass with a wiper motor, the black plastic surround would have likely interfered with the lid, since this slide sits up 3 inches higher to accommodate the stove underneath. I opted for no rear wiper from Ursa Minor and it all works out great. Heres a little sneak peek at my rear light project that I’ll be putting into an in-depth write up

 

Well I have a few more questions after looking at your pictures….. 😂 PM sent