resharp001

I could definitely see general age of 12 years wearing on the TB bushings. Probably a good idea to freshen that up regardless, but still don't think it's causing a wander. That rear TB is doing so little....outside of placing the rear axle horizontally. It's not near as integrated as the front TB is. I'd just leave that alone if it were me. Will be curious to see the alignment readings. Kinda surprised a few others haven't chimed in here.

Just to confirm/recap, you have inspected all joints in the steering system right? zero change you have a worn TR or DL end? You've also double checked BJs? (I know you noted they had previously been changed). You've officially ruled out tires and steering stabilizer being the issue.

Even with the age, I wouldn't think these things would be an issue due to reasonable mileage, but just brainstorming. Unlikely, but maybe worn unit bearing, or even an axle shaft u-joint could be in play. Usually you'd be getting a noise with a u-joint issue, but just thinking of anything that could cause any change in how the tire is rotating which could create a pull.

resharp001

Hadn't thought of brakes, but that is def a good idea to check.

DEJK2012

I agree with Sltimmins, check calipers. had my driver front seize where it just started adding pressure and caused my jeep to pull. took me forever to find it lol

justinstoffregen

Mechanic's first diagnosis was brake pad sticking. This may be important:
Many years ago I grenaded the joint that connects the driver side (side of pull) stub shaft to the corresponding axle shaft. I replaced it on my own with OEM parts. Drove like a charm for years. I will recheck DL and TR ends but my mechanic is thorough and honest. He was the service manager for a GM stealer until he got his own place. He and I usually read these threads together. Anyway, stay tuned for alignment result pics on Friday.

justinstoffregen

See pic below. Diagnosis

resharp001

Oof, your caster is way low. Thought you mentioned having some control arm brackets? That caster should be up over 4*+ (factory is 4.2*). That might not seem like a big difference, but it is. That is not helping the situation at all.

justinstoffregen

I incorrectly reported that the aftermarket bracket that I had installed was for caster adjustment but it is for camber adjustment. That said any recommendations for getting the caster in line?

Sltimmins

The cheapest option would be cam bolts but I don’t think anyone here, me included, would recommend those to you. The next cheapest option would be control arm drop brackets, the only downside to these is you lose some clearance and they are not totally adjustable although they have some different mounting holes for varying lift heights, but they return your control arms to the factory angle and can get your caster a little better. The best option IMO is adjustable arms. If you’re just trying to correct the caster you only need one set of controls arms, upper or lower, if you get lower you want the arms to be longer than stock if you get the uppers you want them to be shorter. The upside to adjustable is you can get the caster dialed in almost perfect and if later down the road you decide you want more lift you don’t have to them out as you can adjust them to the new height. There’s also fixed length control arms that will have the same effect as drop brackets but without the loss of ground clearance. However, they won’t be adjustable and you may still end up with too little or too much caster.

DEJK2012

Spend the money now and get a good set of adjustable control arms. that is my opinion.i know it might hurt the wallet, but it is the way to go.

resharp001

Possible for you to snap a couple pics of your front suspension? I'm not quite sure what you have installed here, cuz there really is no way to adjust camber on our JKs unless you installed offset BJs. How long ago did you replace BJs by the way, and what brand did you put in? Your left camber looks a bit low, although seeing 1* on the JK isn't uncommon. I only ask cuz typically low camber is a result of a worn BJ. I'm mainly wondering about this bracket you have installed.

Just to be overly clear about everything and make sure we're all on the same page here, here's what we're talking about in regards to caster....the rotation of the Cs on the axle -



Whereas camber is this -


Sltimmins has highlighted our caster correction options. If you do no or just light offroading (not playing in big boulders), most people will go with control arm brackets which are $100-$160 depending on which ones you buy. with a 2.5" lift, you can scoot by with just lower adjustable control arms. You could do uppers instead as noted, but the benefit of lowers vs. uppers is extending the wheelbase again while raising caster rather than just rotating the axle to raise caster.