Spicer Ultimate D44
11-04-2015, 10:01 AM
#11
JK Super Freak
That's the route I was going to take, but a deal for a set of Rubicon take-offs with 4.88s fell into my lap. Dollar for dollar, a Rubi 44 with an Artec truss and gussets is a better value for the kind of wheeling I do.
Last edited by ShutterBug; 11-04-2015 at 04:07 PM.
11-04-2015, 01:05 PM
#12
JK Jedi
I have heard nothing of a recall. Where did you get that information? fugg FCA would not even recall the 12-13 cylinder heads. I doubt it is true but I hope it is.
11-04-2015, 03:44 PM
#13
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I guess it is starting to look more like a dressed up factory axle (they are the same company). I haven't seen a price yet though. If it's under 3k, it might be worth it over a factory axle. Slightly larger tubes, chromoly axle shafts, 1/4 in brackets, and a better diff cover would put it in between a PR and the Rubi axle. All of the dealers near me are a bunch of crooks, so I'd probably spend close to 3k getting a stock Rubi axle from them anyways. I'm in Japan right now, so I'm kind of disconnected from everything going on back in the States.
11-04-2015, 04:19 PM
#14
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
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Ok so I bought and built a Mopar D44HD. This has J8 tubes and I can tell you for a fact there is more then 1/16" tube difference. I purchase some Ten Factory tube end seals hoping I could shave them down to fit. No dice. Tubes too thick.
As for the C's I have yet to see a factory C bent or even photos of such. I have seen factory tubes bend right at the C which C gussets stop from happening. I have had a front end collision where the wheel took a direct hit and that didn't bend the C. So before I call judgement on factory C's I want to see proof.
My build. Mopar Performance D44HD, OX Locker with electric actuator, 5.38 Yukon gears, factory Rubi axles for now. $2675. USD. I did the work.
As for the C's I have yet to see a factory C bent or even photos of such. I have seen factory tubes bend right at the C which C gussets stop from happening. I have had a front end collision where the wheel took a direct hit and that didn't bend the C. So before I call judgement on factory C's I want to see proof.
My build. Mopar Performance D44HD, OX Locker with electric actuator, 5.38 Yukon gears, factory Rubi axles for now. $2675. USD. I did the work.
Last edited by jtphoto JK; 11-04-2015 at 05:10 PM.
11-04-2015, 06:24 PM
#16
JK Jedi
looks good and when I bend my stock rubi housing that is what I will do. I am sure guys like the other poster who said they are crap is way more hard core than I am. I doubt I will be racing king of hammers or anything like that. I will mostly stick to things like the rubicon and 6 and 7 rated trails at Moab so doubt I will need more. I think for the money your set up is pretty hard to beat for guys like me.
11-28-2015, 09:57 PM
#17
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Well, I've been doing a lot of research on all the different axle options out there, which there's more than I knew of beforehand, and this is what I'm down to now.
I found the Spicer axle on Summit for $3795 today, and my dad lives maybe 2 miles from the Tallmadge store, so I could get free shipping to the store and install it while I'm on leave.
I found the eBay seller mentioned above, but he doesn't have any axles, just a John Deere connecting rod and a front brake kit. There's a couple of used ones on eBay for $1500, but I don't want to inherit someone else's problems. I found a couple places with stock Rubi axles for $2600, and Morris 4x4 showed a front axle for $2100, but it had a picture of a rear axle, so I'm not sure how old or accurate that is.
Building an empty housing ($1400 on eBay) would cost probably almost 4k to make it work going from a D30 to a D44 (housing, axles, gears, e locker, yoke, diff cover, master install kit, with labor for setting up gears) without any armor or sleeves.
A Built Rubi D44 (sleeved, gussed, truss, ox locker, 4.56, chromolly axles, and LCA skids) from East Coast Gear Supply would be $4500 and $200 for shipping. Kind of expensive especially if configured with RCVs, getting into Pro Rock territory. ($5000!)
A PR44 would cost at least 5k, same with Teraflex's housing and Currie's. (Insanity)
The UD44 is looking like it might be the best for me. I've gone 15,000 miles after the lift and tires on my D30 (22k total) with no problems, and I'm most likely going to stick with 35s for a long while, so one of the big housings is a little overkill, and there's not much difference driving wise between 3.73 and 4.10, so I'd be regearing a stock D44 anyways, putting the cost close to $32-3500.
Just wanted to put my research out there for others to see.
I found the Spicer axle on Summit for $3795 today, and my dad lives maybe 2 miles from the Tallmadge store, so I could get free shipping to the store and install it while I'm on leave.
I found the eBay seller mentioned above, but he doesn't have any axles, just a John Deere connecting rod and a front brake kit. There's a couple of used ones on eBay for $1500, but I don't want to inherit someone else's problems. I found a couple places with stock Rubi axles for $2600, and Morris 4x4 showed a front axle for $2100, but it had a picture of a rear axle, so I'm not sure how old or accurate that is.
Building an empty housing ($1400 on eBay) would cost probably almost 4k to make it work going from a D30 to a D44 (housing, axles, gears, e locker, yoke, diff cover, master install kit, with labor for setting up gears) without any armor or sleeves.
A Built Rubi D44 (sleeved, gussed, truss, ox locker, 4.56, chromolly axles, and LCA skids) from East Coast Gear Supply would be $4500 and $200 for shipping. Kind of expensive especially if configured with RCVs, getting into Pro Rock territory. ($5000!)
A PR44 would cost at least 5k, same with Teraflex's housing and Currie's. (Insanity)
The UD44 is looking like it might be the best for me. I've gone 15,000 miles after the lift and tires on my D30 (22k total) with no problems, and I'm most likely going to stick with 35s for a long while, so one of the big housings is a little overkill, and there's not much difference driving wise between 3.73 and 4.10, so I'd be regearing a stock D44 anyways, putting the cost close to $32-3500.
Just wanted to put my research out there for others to see.
11-29-2015, 02:09 AM
#19
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
It's fine, I just want to regear it and at the same time I'm building my Jeep to drive the TAT (5000 miles off road) when I get out of the military in 2017. I don't wheel my Jeep very hard either because it's my only vehicle and I know the axle is bound to break somewhere if I push it. I'm on a budget though, because I'm trying to pay off the 11k I still owe on it also.
11-29-2015, 04:56 AM
#20
JK Junkie
Well, I've been doing a lot of research on all the different axle options out there, which there's more than I knew of beforehand, and this is what I'm down to now. I found the Spicer axle on Summit for $3795 today, and my dad lives maybe 2 miles from the Tallmadge store, so I could get free shipping to the store and install it while I'm on leave. I found the eBay seller mentioned above, but he doesn't have any axles, just a John Deere connecting rod and a front brake kit. There's a couple of used ones on eBay for $1500, but I don't want to inherit someone else's problems. I found a couple places with stock Rubi axles for $2600, and Morris 4x4 showed a front axle for $2100, but it had a picture of a rear axle, so I'm not sure how old or accurate that is. Building an empty housing ($1400 on eBay) would cost probably almost 4k to make it work going from a D30 to a D44 (housing, axles, gears, e locker, yoke, diff cover, master install kit, with labor for setting up gears) without any armor or sleeves. A Built Rubi D44 (sleeved, gussed, truss, ox locker, 4.56, chromolly axles, and LCA skids) from East Coast Gear Supply would be $4500 and $200 for shipping. Kind of expensive especially if configured with RCVs, getting into Pro Rock territory. ($5000!) A PR44 would cost at least 5k, same with Teraflex's housing and Currie's. (Insanity) The UD44 is looking like it might be the best for me. I've gone 15,000 miles after the lift and tires on my D30 (22k total) with no problems, and I'm most likely going to stick with 35s for a long while, so one of the big housings is a little overkill, and there's not much difference driving wise between 3.73 and 4.10, so I'd be regearing a stock D44 anyways, putting the cost close to $32-3500. Just wanted to put my research out there for others to see.
