Steering Advise
01-07-2017, 09:41 AM
#11
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From looking at the drag link & track bar they appear to be parallel, however the drag link is bent. I took pics of the lower and upper control arms as well (not the best pics) hopefully there enough.
01-07-2017, 10:28 AM
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From looking at the drag link & track bar they appear to be parallel, however the drag link is bent. I took pics of the lower and upper control arms as well (not the best pics) hopefully there enough.<img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=664172"/><img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=664173"/><img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=664174"/><img src="https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=664175"/>
If the DL bent you would notice it.
01-07-2017, 10:35 AM
#13
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I have had to and need to recenter the steering wheel again. I never noticed the bend in the drag link until this morning, but there's definately a bend or bow in it. In the second pic you can see it pretty clearly.
01-07-2017, 01:55 PM
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I have one here and it has the same bend. I think that is normal .
01-07-2017, 04:35 PM
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Correct your castor with correction brackets or adj control arms. Then save up for new draglink, tierod, and trackbar. Until you replace those, it's prolly gonna need an alignment after you wheel every time. Once you have those quality parts you can look at drag link flip.
01-07-2017, 07:35 PM
#16
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Correct your castor with correction brackets or adj control arms. Then save up for new draglink, tierod, and trackbar. Until you replace those, it's prolly gonna need an alignment after you wheel every time. Once you have those quality parts you can look at drag link flip.
I've heard great things about MC arms, but I'm concerned the rubber will dry out in the heat of the Mohave Desert, I live in one of if not the hottest and dryer areas in the country.
01-07-2017, 08:54 PM
#17
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Do I need to replace all 8 control arms and if so does anything me have an opinion on Core 4x4's arms? I've heard great things about MC arms, but I'm concerned the rubber will dry out in the heat of the Mohave Desert, I live in one of if not the hottest and dryer areas in the country.
Front lowers for caster, rear uppers for pinion on a 2 door over 3.5" or if running a aftermarket DS 2/4 door. Rear lowers (along with uppers) will help center the rear tire in the wheelwell but not overly important.
01-07-2017, 09:57 PM
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Agreed. Start by figuring out what you have right now. G.I. Joe always said "knowing is half the battle" 
Once you know what you have, you're going to get more appropriate advice. At one point I had a 4" Pro Comp lift so I'd bet you have those ES9000 shocks, 4" springs, an adjustable front TB, and a raised rear TB bracket.....and not a whole lot more. Snap some pics and you'll get some quick feedback. As suggested, finding your caster is going to tell you a lot as well. Cheap angle finder to measure the pinion angle and then calculating backwards to find your caster will tell a lot. If you can't find how to do it online with an easy search, just measure and post the pinion angle and I or someone else will chime in quickly. Also, might describe how you intend to use the jeep. Is this mainly going to stay on the street, going to do light wheeling (fire road type stuff), or are you looking to get more in to rock crawling type stuff? What you plan to do will also determine the advice you get back. Start by snapping some pics from underneath. I'd also guess you don't have bump stops adjusted properly, but best to take one step at a time here....
Once you know what you have, you're going to get more appropriate advice. At one point I had a 4" Pro Comp lift so I'd bet you have those ES9000 shocks, 4" springs, an adjustable front TB, and a raised rear TB bracket.....and not a whole lot more. Snap some pics and you'll get some quick feedback. As suggested, finding your caster is going to tell you a lot as well. Cheap angle finder to measure the pinion angle and then calculating backwards to find your caster will tell a lot. If you can't find how to do it online with an easy search, just measure and post the pinion angle and I or someone else will chime in quickly. Also, might describe how you intend to use the jeep. Is this mainly going to stay on the street, going to do light wheeling (fire road type stuff), or are you looking to get more in to rock crawling type stuff? What you plan to do will also determine the advice you get back. Start by snapping some pics from underneath. I'd also guess you don't have bump stops adjusted properly, but best to take one step at a time here....The angle on the front of my diff at the bolts is 88* and at the pinion is 93*
Last edited by Neeland; 01-07-2017 at 09:57 PM. Reason: Missing info
01-09-2017, 10:28 AM
#20
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Wow, I missed quite a bit on this thread. I think I got suckered with not checking the one subscription alert over the weekend and then missed everything.
That sure does look like the factory TB in the pictures. I still don’t see how that’s working if you have 4” springs. Seems like you’re axle would be way off center. And you definitely don’t have control arm brackets. If it were me, I’d spend the $105 on some geo correction brackets, and if you think you’re going to stay 3.5” or higher, consider a DL flip with a raised TB bracket to keep your DL and TB angles in check. Keep in mind that if you change lifts…..a quality 3.5” spring is probably going to raise you more than your current 4” springs. The geo correction brackets will go a long ways in helping out immediately, then when you can afford to, put some adjustable control arms on. I wouldn’t worry about MC arm bushings wearing out in the heat. If you had any concerns I’d bet a quick chat with Matson would put them at ease. Even synergy is moving to a DDM bushing. Also, as mentioned above, you don’t have to do all 8 arms at once. You could do the fronts and then address the rears at a later time. Depending on your lift you’d probably want to push that rear axle back at some point though.
I didn't see it anywhere, did you happen to measure your pinion angle to see what your current caster is?
That sure does look like the factory TB in the pictures. I still don’t see how that’s working if you have 4” springs. Seems like you’re axle would be way off center. And you definitely don’t have control arm brackets. If it were me, I’d spend the $105 on some geo correction brackets, and if you think you’re going to stay 3.5” or higher, consider a DL flip with a raised TB bracket to keep your DL and TB angles in check. Keep in mind that if you change lifts…..a quality 3.5” spring is probably going to raise you more than your current 4” springs. The geo correction brackets will go a long ways in helping out immediately, then when you can afford to, put some adjustable control arms on. I wouldn’t worry about MC arm bushings wearing out in the heat. If you had any concerns I’d bet a quick chat with Matson would put them at ease. Even synergy is moving to a DDM bushing. Also, as mentioned above, you don’t have to do all 8 arms at once. You could do the fronts and then address the rears at a later time. Depending on your lift you’d probably want to push that rear axle back at some point though.
I didn't see it anywhere, did you happen to measure your pinion angle to see what your current caster is?