resharp001

As nthinuf said, it's really WTO or PSC. PSC is in my back yard. They are top notch, great service and excellent products, but very pricey. West Texas Offroad is in San Angelo. Those guys are great as well and offer a more budget friendly option. They port factory steering boxes and provide hoses and a ram to accomplish hydro at ~half the cost. I would note they are essentially opening and rebuilding steering boxes, not just drilling tapping and resending. They are great guys out there too, and you will find many people running their Red Neck Ram (RNR) with no issues at all.

nthinuf

it's worth noting that can be a location-by-location thing. I asked at several different Firestone shops in both Colorado and Texas, and all refused to honor it because of the adjustable arms.

resharp001

Firestone policy def varies from location to location. I've got a lifetime at my local store. I think it was $140 as opposed to $75 to $80 for 1-time. Buddy with same 37" Nitto TGs 30 miles away couldn't get his store to touch his jeep. "we can't do 37's, they won't work with the machine". My store never said a thing. 6 years later, I've gotten my $140 out of the original deal. I could roll in there daily if I wanted to hassle with the rigmarole of waiting on them.

I'm kinda surprised they refused due to adjustable arms. I would say, my store made it clear up front messing with arms would be extra. I understand the additional costs, but they'll still put it on the machine, read it, and you know......adjust toe and the ever important hard work of centering the steering wheel. Usually I'm going in cuz I've changed something and want to confirm or re-read caster.

jedg

I'll pile on with Resharp001. WTO has great service and their products are top notch. I will recommend that you make your own measurements of the hose lengths you will need between the ram and the PS box. Mine were a tad short at full droop as were a friend of mine who also got his system from WTO. That's not much of a complaint, but it did make me uncomfortable to see the hydraulic hoses being pulled on. They will make the hose to your length specifications if you give them that information ahead of time.

GR1P

Your problem is related to two things: caster and the alignment of your track bar and drag link.

Your caster is way off if you raised your rig 4 inches without setting it via adjustable control arms, guaranteed. The Jeep will wander, overcorrect and generally be a nightmare to drive. The "dead spot" feeling can also be created by caster.

Also if your track bar and drag link are not aligned it means they are turning on separate axis' and will create bump steer.

Purchase adjustable control arms and dc driveshafts and realign before throwing more steering mods on the car.

CoqRock

Update!

So replaced the steering gearbox, it felt much firmer. However at speeds over 50mph you really notice the dead spot between 11 and 1.
Drove about 300 miles with the new box and at that point the power steering pump slowly died... Replaced it.

So the current build to combat floaty driving is as follows:
New Steering Gear Box
New Power Steering Pump
Yeti XD Tie Rod
Yeti XD Drag Link with Griffin Attenuator
Yeti Adjustable Track Bar
Rock Krawler adjustable control arms Upper/ Lower, Front/Rear
Falcon 2.1 Shocks

It's still hard to drive, still has a dead spot between 11 and 1 but it's manageable at non highway speeds now that the bump steer issue has been corrected.
Having 4wp start increasing the caster angle to see if it makes it better or worse.

bkg

2" spacers are not helping you at all... yank them, I'd drop them and test drive. You're about to spend thousands fixing an issue that may potentially lead back to the spacers.

EDIT: What brand and type of tire?

nthinuf

35's on stock rims, he needs backspace for tire clearance. Though double checking torque on those bolts isn't a bad idea.

bkg

I understand why spacers are needed, but he should be able to get away with 1.25”. Regardless, take them off, test, report.. I’ll bet 2 bits the issue is lessened.