Hey, all. Long time reader, first time poster. I’m hoping someone can point me in the right direction.

I put a 3.5” lift on my 2011 JKU last weekend, along with a new track bar, steering linkage, and new steering stabilizer. The lift came with drop brackets for the control arms and relocation brackets to move the track bars up. I drove it to a chain tire place to do the alignment, against my better judgement, and while driving it, the steering was way off and seemed to be worse with speed, which wasn’t really unexpected. Super light in the wheel and pushes like a dump truck, which I’ve read can happen and may just need some weight on the front, but as I would drive through a long LEFT curve, I’d have to turn the wheel to the right at an increasing rate to keep it in the lane. A few times, the traction control light would come on and it sounded like ABS was activated even though the brakes were not being used. Same symptoms when making a hard right turn like when turning onto another road. The tire place did an alignment and it didn’t help but they did it to stock and not the specs prescribed in the lift kit.

I took it to another more reputable shop familiar with Jeeps and they also did an alignment but to specs provided with the kit. It drives much better but I still get the traction control light with ABS sound when making a right turn and the wheel is straight at slow speeds but requires a little left input as speed increases. I thought it was possibly the crown of the road but I’m pretty sure it’s not. I also got the Traction control/ABS when I drove over an section of road that is rough and partially under construction. Also, when backing up with steering at the stop, such as out of the drive way, I don’t get any rubbing but if I’m just slightly faster in reverse, I do get some rubbing.

On a side note, and possibly unrelated, my driver side rear axle seal is leaking and I’ll be replacing the axle shaft soon. The second shop seems to think that may be the cause of the traction control issue but I’m a little skeptical because I’ve had the leak for a little while without issues and it only started popping up after the lift.

Any suggestions on what I need to look at?

 

Post your alignment sheet and your parts installed. That will help us a lot.

 

Parts installed

Steering linkage (replaced stock with Moog)
steering stabilizer (replaced stock)
Front track bar
Drop pitman arm
Drop brackets for front control arms
Springs
Shocks
Front and rear track bar relocation brackets
New 20” rims with 35” tires

These are the specs that came with the kit:
Caster: 4.6 degree
Camber preferred: -0.25 degree
Toe-in preferred: 0.15degree

 

You said it has drop brackets for the track bars? So on the frame side, the track bars are lowered?

Nothing was done to affect the abs system, I would run your codes and see what it’s telling you. It’s possible that someone messed up an abs sensor or wire when installing your lift.

For steering, if you have a strong damper, it can push you to the left. Disconnect your damper and go for a short drive. If your steering feels better, get rid of the damper, they’re not really even necessary.

 

Sorry, I’ll edit the post. Drop brackets for the control arms but relocation brackets for the track bars to move them up.

 

I edited my post above, was short reply at first then re-read your posts.

Having a drop pitman arm isn’t the best thing to have since it adds stress to your sector shaft. But if your front track bar is raised then you need the drop pitman arm or flip your drag link.

 

Thanks for the input. I’ll see if removing the stabilizer does anything. I’m not even sure it’s the ABS that’s activating but it’s a similar sound and feel on the pedal but has happened when I’m not even pressing the brake pedal. I really have little knowledge of the traction control system and the Tc light comes on with the ABS sound... which not even be the ABS.

 

If you’re getting an abs light then there should be a stored code. Plug in an obd2 reader that reads abs codes, if you don’t have one then you can get one from the auto parts store for around $40. I love my Jeep but it’s still a dodge, the code reader is well worth it.

 

It’s the ESC light that comes on with an ABS-like sound and I do have Flashcal so I’ll check it next time I drive it and get the light. The shop checked it and didn’t get any codes.

I have read a few places that it can be caused by the steering wheel not being centered but I assume that gets checked when they do an alignment.

 

Did you correct for new tire size, or gears?
I'm having the exact same issue. I'm working on my locker bypass right now and haven't looked into the ABS issue. I "corrected" mine with a procal, but messed up at first and it wouldn't get much past 40 MPH. I re-did the correction and that issue is gone.