Steering Upgrade Options for 37-40 tires
#11
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Just got off the phone with West Texas Offroad and it's going to be at least 3 weeks turnaround time if I ship my own box and they are out of their own boxes... so 3 weeks down time for the Jeep which is
unacceptable for me but good for them I guess (-;
I noticed the air pressure on my fronts was on the low side so I brought it up to 30psi and the steering is better now but far from great while in stand still.
Is this normal for 37's at that pressure in stand still?
unacceptable for me but good for them I guess (-;
I noticed the air pressure on my fronts was on the low side so I brought it up to 30psi and the steering is better now but far from great while in stand still.
Is this normal for 37's at that pressure in stand still?
#12
JK Newbie
Shipped my Box to West Texas last week, should have arrived today .Those guys had the best prices and said they would have my parts to me this week hopefully.Using the stock pump /reservoir for now so we will see if it can handle the task .
#13
Sponsoring Manufacturer
Yea i upgraded my axles to Dynatrac D80 front and rear for the 40" tires. Dynatrac was running a special on the pricing to upgrade when the 80s first came out. These axles doubled the weight of my jeep.
As far as full hydro-i beleive that isnt legal to drive on any street in Texas. Check your local laws before moving forward with that thought.
Our law stipulates that there must be a solid mechanical connection from steering wheel to front steering axle. Rear steering isnt affected by the law, just front steering.
As far as full hydro-i beleive that isnt legal to drive on any street in Texas. Check your local laws before moving forward with that thought.
Our law stipulates that there must be a solid mechanical connection from steering wheel to front steering axle. Rear steering isnt affected by the law, just front steering.
#14
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: Alameda, CA
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Yea i upgraded my axles to Dynatrac D80 front and rear for the 40" tires. Dynatrac was running a special on the pricing to upgrade when the 80s first came out. These axles doubled the weight of my jeep.
As far as full hydro-i beleive that isnt legal to drive on any street in Texas. Check your local laws before moving forward with that thought.
Our law stipulates that there must be a solid mechanical connection from steering wheel to front steering axle. Rear steering isnt affected by the law, just front steering.
As far as full hydro-i beleive that isnt legal to drive on any street in Texas. Check your local laws before moving forward with that thought.
Our law stipulates that there must be a solid mechanical connection from steering wheel to front steering axle. Rear steering isnt affected by the law, just front steering.
Tennessee states that you cannot modify a vehicle's original steering system.
liftlaws.com is a good starting point for what you can or cannot do.
#15
JK Freak
Looked up the kit i installed many years ago (there are others on the market, this is the one i used. Do your own homework to find what works for u). U can get this kit with or without raised knuckles to ease steering angles as well. Hope this helps
#16
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
https://steersmarts.com/collections/...mount-draglink
and the Giffin here:
https://steersmarts.com/collections/.../XD+Attenuator
Anybody uses the Yeti? How do you like it?
#17
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Infiniti introduced the Q50 back in 2014 with "steer-by-wire" with no mechanical connection between steering wheel and tires. You can drive a Q50 in any state.
Tennessee states that you cannot modify a vehicle's original steering system.
liftlaws.com is a good starting point for what you can or cannot do.
Tennessee states that you cannot modify a vehicle's original steering system.
liftlaws.com is a good starting point for what you can or cannot do.
#18
JK Freak
Well. I had a 1.25" tierod with the PSC ram attached and was climbing double step ledge with lockers engaged (both front axle and rear axle had to climb seperate ledges at same time) and the front tires grabbed and rears didnt and the front tie rod couldnt handle the force of both front tires driving forward and the psc ram clamped in middle and therefore it folded into a boomerang. I have had to order a larger tierod 1.5" (i was recommended to barnes4x4 one ton tierod kit with offset ends to clear the dana 80 diff for 111.00) and also had to order a larger aluminum tierod clamp for the ram to attach to for another 85.00. Its a weld together kit and im still working on it(i only work on jeep on the weekends when im feeling like it.).
Sadly the tierod that i started with never impacted anything, it merely wasnt thick enough steel in the pipe section to withstand all the force of 40" tires on lockers with a ram in middle.
If this new one fails im making my own from 1.75" threaded chromoly pipe with 7/8 ends. We shall see!
Sadly the tierod that i started with never impacted anything, it merely wasnt thick enough steel in the pipe section to withstand all the force of 40" tires on lockers with a ram in middle.
If this new one fails im making my own from 1.75" threaded chromoly pipe with 7/8 ends. We shall see!
#19
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Well. I had a 1.25" tierod with the PSC ram attached and was climbing double step ledge with lockers engaged (both front axle and rear axle had to climb seperate ledges at same time) and the front tires grabbed and rears didnt and the front tie rod couldnt handle the force of both front tires driving forward and the psc ram clamped in middle and therefore it folded into a boomerang. I have had to order a larger tierod 1.5" (i was recommended to barnes4x4 one ton tierod kit with offset ends to clear the dana 80 diff for 111.00) and also had to order a larger aluminum tierod clamp for the ram to attach to for another 85.00. Its a weld together kit and im still working on it(i only work on jeep on the weekends when im feeling like it.).
Sadly the tierod that i started with never impacted anything, it merely wasnt thick enough steel in the pipe section to withstand all the force of 40" tires on lockers with a ram in middle.
If this new one fails im making my own from 1.75" threaded chromoly pipe with 7/8 ends. We shall see!
Sadly the tierod that i started with never impacted anything, it merely wasnt thick enough steel in the pipe section to withstand all the force of 40" tires on lockers with a ram in middle.
If this new one fails im making my own from 1.75" threaded chromoly pipe with 7/8 ends. We shall see!
I believe the Yeti is the strongest on the market and strength is the essense but it also comes with really nice ball joints..
Pricy, especially if you add the Griffin dumper but it looks like it is a "buy once" thing.
#20
The TF kit is nice. Also looking at the SS kit here:
https://steersmarts.com/collections/...mount-draglink
and the Giffin here:
https://steersmarts.com/collections/.../XD+Attenuator
Anybody uses the Yeti? How do you like it?
https://steersmarts.com/collections/...mount-draglink
and the Giffin here:
https://steersmarts.com/collections/.../XD+Attenuator
Anybody uses the Yeti? How do you like it?