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Stay on 37s
30
85.71%
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5
14.29%
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Stock Axle Question for Rubicon Owners...37s vs 35s
#1
JK Enthusiast
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Stock Axle Question for Rubicon Owners...37s vs 35s
Hey, I'm sorry if this has already been addressed on another thread, but I don't know where to look. Anyway I have just gained possesion of a 2008 JKU Rubicon on 37's. The gearing is 5:13 and it has a Teraflex long arm susp lift (I think it's a 4"). Other than that the front end is stock.
Yesterday I took it wheeling (I know I was asking for it! Haha) and broke the front axle. It was scary how easily it broke, I was not abusing it at all. Anyway Now I am looking to make sure I'm going in the right direction. I'm getting new axles, ball joints, gussets, and all the things to make the front end what it should be...but after that, what's the next weakest link? Is it the differential?
I need to buy new tires right now, and going to 35s is an option. I have done some homework, and all things are pretty much equal. I'd have to buy 5ea 35s and also get new shorter springs to lose a little lift. I'm already going to buy the axles, ball joints, and gussets, so it's really down to tires. I'm thinking I'll just buy 4 37s at about the same price as 5 35s and run them until they are gone, and keep fingers crossed.
My only reservation with staying on 37s is that I don't want to grenade the stock locker or whatever the next weakest link is...the Jeep is about halfway there to be able to handle 37s IMO...I'm ready to flip a coin!
Need some expertise here....
Yesterday I took it wheeling (I know I was asking for it! Haha) and broke the front axle. It was scary how easily it broke, I was not abusing it at all. Anyway Now I am looking to make sure I'm going in the right direction. I'm getting new axles, ball joints, gussets, and all the things to make the front end what it should be...but after that, what's the next weakest link? Is it the differential?
I need to buy new tires right now, and going to 35s is an option. I have done some homework, and all things are pretty much equal. I'd have to buy 5ea 35s and also get new shorter springs to lose a little lift. I'm already going to buy the axles, ball joints, and gussets, so it's really down to tires. I'm thinking I'll just buy 4 37s at about the same price as 5 35s and run them until they are gone, and keep fingers crossed.
My only reservation with staying on 37s is that I don't want to grenade the stock locker or whatever the next weakest link is...the Jeep is about halfway there to be able to handle 37s IMO...I'm ready to flip a coin!
Need some expertise here....
#2
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I'm sort of in the same boat, Rubicon, 37s, stock Dana 44s. Just had ball joints, new trackbar, tie rod ends, ring an pinion in the rear, etc installed - the old ones were worn pretty good. Anyhow I want to take it off road but afraid of having to drop more cash at this time. And if you barely even pushed yours then it makes me wonder the same thing as you.
I'm sort of in the same boat, Rubicon, 37s, stock Dana 44s. Just had ball joints, new trackbar, tie rod ends, ring an pinion in the rear, etc installed - the old ones were worn pretty good. Anyhow I want to take it off road but afraid of having to drop more cash at this time. And if you barely even pushed yours then it makes me wonder the same thing as you.
#3
What did you break? A shaft? You add chromally shafts and C gussets, you'd be fine. Now the frt driveshaft boot might tear at droop, so I would guess that may be the next issue but we don't know what you were doing or what wheel'n you do.
#4
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^^Yeah, the left axle broke at the knuckle. The ds is not stock, but I can't find a part number or manufacturer info on it anywhere so that's a mystery. I'm doing the cro mo shafts and gussets regardless of tire size, but I guess my concern comes down to what would be the next weakest link if I run 37s? Can the factory diff handle the extra load off road w 37s?
I am in the mid west, we have parks like SMORR, Flat Nasty, Washita, etc that have rocks, tight turning trails, and some hills and some mud...^^
I am in the mid west, we have parks like SMORR, Flat Nasty, Washita, etc that have rocks, tight turning trails, and some hills and some mud...^^
#5
JK Freak
The factory 44 is "fine" if you just upgrade the shafts and gusset it, maybe sleeve it. You might be better off just going with a Prorock 44 Unlimited in the long run..... But for now I'd get new shafts and gusset it.
#6
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if you just broke the housing then get a new stock housing and sleeve and gusset it or buy a pro rock housing. we all know the stockl housing is very weak thats why so many people sleeve and gusset to run just 35s. im going to run 37s on my stock 30 i do have sleeves and gussets and open diff but if you dont hammer on your rig when wheeling it should hold up. if you are hard on her when wheeling then go with a 60.
#7
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Install some good shafts/U-joints and forget about it. RCV's or Superior Domestics with CTM joints. You can run 37's on D44 all day (Depending on your driving style) You just need to fill them with the proper components to ensure they dont blow up.
My $.02
My $.02
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#8
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You broke it already? Go with the 37's. I would say that the axle shaft was already weak. Was it the actual shaft or at the u-joint? Either replace the shaft or get some RCV's. Wiredawg is running that same set up I believe and hasn't broke a shaft....yet.
#9
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The stock locker 'failing' may be a concern. Grenading it as a weak link, not so much. Upgrade to new shafts and go have fun, just take it easy on the skinny.
For the housing, it's decision time. With just gussets, is it strong enough for 37's and your intended driving? If not, do you spend money on sleeves/truss/skids/hd brackets/cut & turn the c's/etc, or sell the stock housing and swap all of the internals (including the new alloy shafts) into a PR-U housing.
For the housing, it's decision time. With just gussets, is it strong enough for 37's and your intended driving? If not, do you spend money on sleeves/truss/skids/hd brackets/cut & turn the c's/etc, or sell the stock housing and swap all of the internals (including the new alloy shafts) into a PR-U housing.
#10
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What exactly did you break?
Regardless, you have 2 options:
#1. Leave it stock, switch to 35's, and hope that it holds up. 5.13's will be awfully short with 35's though.
#2. Beef up the axle to handle 37's with ease. This means shafts that can handle 37's (RCV's or conventional cromo shafts), gussets for the inner c's, and either sleeves or a truss (a truss will provide a greater strength increase and will beef up the tube/housing interface in a way that no sleeve can....but if you don't have a truly first-rate guy installing your truss, you can FUBAR your axle). This is of course assuming that you have not already broken an axle tube...and if that has happened, you might as well just buy a pro-rock 44.
Regardless, you have 2 options:
#1. Leave it stock, switch to 35's, and hope that it holds up. 5.13's will be awfully short with 35's though.
#2. Beef up the axle to handle 37's with ease. This means shafts that can handle 37's (RCV's or conventional cromo shafts), gussets for the inner c's, and either sleeves or a truss (a truss will provide a greater strength increase and will beef up the tube/housing interface in a way that no sleeve can....but if you don't have a truly first-rate guy installing your truss, you can FUBAR your axle). This is of course assuming that you have not already broken an axle tube...and if that has happened, you might as well just buy a pro-rock 44.