Superduty Dana 60 Swap Questions with Artec Swap Kit
 

Anybody build a 05+ Super Duty dana 60. I'm planning the build but have a few questions for people already running them.

-How much lift are your running?
-How much bumpstop did you need to keep to prevent the axle from hitting anything major?
-Did you notch the frame anywhere?
-What tire size are you running & what wheel backspacing/offset?
-Did you have any driveline interference issues?
-Did you use the reid/artec outers with the hi steer kit?

I am looking at a 06 Dana 60 complete caliper to caliper, I will reuse the the stock shafts but change the joints. I will use oem ball joints, oem drag link, oem tie rod, oem brake setup. It seems the oem tone rings and wss will work within 2% accuracy which means keeping abs and esp functioning properly. I will run oem style manual hubs and the 8 bolt stock unit bearings. I will need to keep the 44 in the back for a while, trying to find an adapter or solution to get it to 8x170 for the new wheels...

Try reaching out to "elusive" on JKF or JKO. He just finished up an 05+ Dana 60. I do know he runs a newer 14 bolt with lug pattern adapters. The 14 bolt is a couple 3" narrower than the 60. He has a thread on his experience on JKO.

http://www.jkowners.com/forum/modifi...axle-plan.html

ANother thread to check out.

http://bham-jk.com/showthread.php?51...les-Under-A-JK

I can tell you now the ford 60 tone ring is 60 tooth where the stock JK is 52, you can't miss match the tone rings and the abs work, if its an auto your trans will automatically go into limp mode and won't shift....also you will have to upgrade to the J8 master cylinder and booster to support the massive ford calipers, the oem steering will not work correctly coupled to the JK, you won't be able to run lock to lock because distance between center of balljoint and the center of the draglink mounting hole is different with the ford axle vs jeep axle, you have to machine the knuckles and run a custom highsteer arm that gives you the proper distance for your jk turning radius. Also the frame side trackbar mount has to be changed as well. The artec swap kits make it very simple with mounting all the correct brackets but its just not as simple as bolting it in..

Yep good info. The good news is the aftermarket support has all this stuff available from high steer arms to offset trackbar brackets as well as master cylinders for the brakes but man these upgrades are pricey. I wouldn't run smaller than a 40 for having 1 tons

Lots of great info! Thanks!

I intend on running this outer to mate the oem drag link and correct any steering issues, its designed to work with ford factory components as well.

Superduty High Steer Kit (05-Up)

Artec also has a 52 tooth tone ring that fits the SD Dana 60.

I am moving the frame side track bar bracket forward for a stretch & plan on making a new bracket.


Thanks again for all the feedback! I hope to have this completed for less $$$ than a new prorock 44 with ARB & RCV's. Everything is adding up really quickly though....

That artec kit is for the superduty axle but utilized under the truck not under the jeep, the pitman arm and steering box on the JK doesn't have the same throw as the ford pitman arm and box is the issue, fusion 4x4 has what you will need to correct this issue. Currie to my knowledge is the only company that makes unit bearings with 52 tooth tone rings for the superduty axle and they only support 99-04 axles, not the 05 n up. artec makes 52 for the rear superduty sterling hubs , but nothing for the front issue.

Im running 06 super duty front with artec kit.
late model dodge sensors plug right into the JK harness and the super duty unit bearings.
the rear 14 bolt axle is easy to just run 60 tooth tone rings.
I did have to move the front track bar frame side mount forward a little with a VKS mount.
Fusion is the way to go for the right steering.

[-How much lift are your running?

I put 4" springs in the jeep when I swapped with 40" tires

-How much bumpstop did you need to keep to prevent the axle from hitting anything major?
I'm still working on this. nothing hits in the rear at all. In the front, it really depends on where the trac bar mount is.

-Did you notch the frame anywhere?
no

-What tire size are you running & what wheel backspacing/offset?
40x13.50r17 with 4.5" backspacing

-Did you have any driveline interference issues?
my front shaft hits the exhaust at full bump now, but I think that's because of the hemi.

-Did you use the reid/artec outers with the hi steer kit?
reid knuckle, fusion steering arm and links

I will reuse the the stock shafts but change the joints.
why change the joints? most of these axles in SoCal have never been put into 4wd.

I will use oem ball joints, oem drag link, oem tie rod, oem brake setup. It seems the oem tone rings and wss will work within 2% accuracy which means keeping abs and esp functioning properly. I will run oem style manual hubs and the 8 bolt stock unit bearings. I will need to keep the 44 in the back for a while, trying to find an adapter or solution to get it to 8x170 for the new wheels.
craigslist wheels are cheap

Thanks guys, that fusion steer arm and the reid knuckles are perfect! The knuckle is even pre-drilled to accept the arm!

So....

It looks like I will run the OEM SD Unit bearing w. the 60 tooth tone ring and until I build the rear axle I will piggyback the front WSS to the rear to prevent major issues. I have a 6speed but I'd like to keep the dash lights calm. I'll use the Dodge WSS and wire them up when I have the rear 60 ready. Likely another year out. Honestly I may run different wheels front to rear for a year, not a daily driver, no big deal.

I check VKS Fab and didn't see the track bar mount, It'd be nice & quick to buy one as opposed to making one.

you have to call Vick at VKS. its not on the website but he has them and can get one to you in socal in a couple days. good guy.
you'll also need a 1350 front driveshaft when this is all over.