Teraflex 2.5 post install questions - Page 2

Teraflex 2.5 post install questions

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  1. #11
    JK Enthusiast BoraBora's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darien99 View Post
    I got under there today and re-checked things - the bolt makes contact with the spring when placed in the top hole, regardless of whether its head facing in or head facing out. It may be a moot point however -

    The point of the bracket is to help recenter the axle after the lift, right? With the bolt in the top hole it shifts the Jeep 1/4" or more too far to the drivers side. It's better in the bottom hole, however it's still about a 1/4" canted drivers side. How far can the axle be off before its an issue?
    Nope, it's to correct your roll center. You should keep it at the very top hole and use an adjustable track bar to center the axle.

    You should use adjustable rear upper control arms to correct your pinion angle. It'll also alleviate the issues you're having with the bolt hitting your coils.
    2015 JK - 99" wheelbase, trussed/locked 44's, 4.56 Yukon, RCV's, Factory Ten Chromos, Warn PowerPlant, VKS sliders, Genright carrier, CC frame chop bumpers, EVO rock skins, RR snorkel, and all the other useless popular knick knacks

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoraBora View Post
    Nope, it's to correct your roll center. You should keep it at the very top hole and use an adjustable track bar to center the axle.

    You should use adjustable rear upper control arms to correct your pinion angle. It'll also alleviate the issues you're having with the bolt hitting your coils.
    Kind of defeats the purpose of a budget lift kit, doesn't it? I'm sure I could use adjustable LCAs, external reservoir shocks, adjustable sway discos, Tom Woods driveshaft, new crossover pipe, etc. As it is I've already added an RK track bar to the front and exhaust spacers - every thing I change requires 2 new things in order to accommodate it.

  3. #13
    JK Enthusiast socal73's Avatar
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    Everything I change requires 2 new things to accommodate it.....welcome to the Jeep life buddy. So true.....if you have a budget on a Jeep them youve bought the wrong vehicle....thats been my experience. I always blow the budget

  4. #14
    JK Super Freak resharp001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by darien99 View Post
    Kind of defeats the purpose of a budget lift kit, doesn't it? every thing I change requires 2 new things in order to accommodate it.
    Y, this is just kind of how it is......and why there is really just no cheap way to lift a vehicle. It requires a lot of money to do it right and address things appropriately. People get sucked in by inexpensive lifts.....not really knowing the path they're heading down. The lifts that appear more budget friendly are that way because they don't address everything....missing parts (track bars, caster correction) or corners are cut (for example, using brackets to drop brake lines instead of just replacing brake lines.....does it work, sure...is it the proper thing to do....meh, it's cheap to do). Once down that path you start to realize how much more it's really going to cost you. Everything works together, and if you touch one single thing.....there are implications to various other things. That is just the nature of the beast with lifting a wrangler.

    There is truth to what Bora Bora said above. Still, I'd leave it in the lower hole and move on down the road. Ideally you would want that TB as high as possible to help with roll center. That said, your jeep is not going to crumble apart. Outside of buying a new adjustable rear TB, I'd want the axle more centered and with less interferance between the spring and TB bolt. Would it be better higher? yes.....is it acceptable in the lower hole...yes. Just my 2c.

  5. #15
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    My RE 2.5" lift came with a frame side trackbar bracket. It left me with an axle that was pushed about 1.5" too far to the left. I was able to get a used JKS TB, but it would not adjust short enough to use the trackbar bracket. Mine is installed in the stock locations front and rear. It didn't change the on-road handling for me, but during of-camber it does tend to shift weight rather drastically in the rear but I'm going to blame that on my very heavy rear end on my 2 door.

  6. #16
    JK Newbie
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    Quote Originally Posted by darien99 View Post
    Wrapped up the install of my lift last week, spring lift with Bilstein 5100s and an RK front track bar. Couple of questions that linger:

    The instructions on the kit say that the rear track bar should bolt into the top hole on the relocation bracket, however when it is in that position the bolt and nut make contact with the spring. I have it bolted into the bottom hole now and there seem to be no issues. Am I missing something, or should I leave it as is?

    I had the same issue. Running on the bottom hole as well. My research before indicated that the issue is due to TF springs having a wider radius than stock/most other brands.

    Also I found that using the top hole, but twisting the spring in its bucket gave a sweet spot for clearance. But even in bottom hole my axle was still centered and both front and rear track bar a about even in angle so no worries.
    Last edited by MAJKF; 08-09-2017 at 04:41 PM.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by MAJKF View Post
    I had the same issue. Running on the bottom hole as well. My research before indicated that the issue is due to TF springs having a wider radius than stock/most other brands.

    Also I found that using the top hole, but twisting the spring in its bucket gave a sweet spot for clearance. But even in bottom hole my axle was still centered and both front and rear track bar a about even in angle so no worries.
    Thanks, I thought that about the size of the springs as well. That helps put my mind at ease.

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