Ok before you say, "Why do you need quick disco's when you have the electronic sway bar disconnect?" let me show you why I'm considering quick discos:



The sway bar link that is bent in the picture is the teraflex sway bar link that I believe is made for a 3-6" lift. It measures 10 inches in length from eye to eye. The swaybar and link somehow got over extended and caused the link to bend and break. Needless to say I was uneasy driving it home 60 miles on the interstate with only half a sway bar.

So now I'm considering either the teraflex or JKS quick discos which are both showcased in the writeups section of this site. I've noticed that the teraflex one's pin up to the frame yet people still seem to be rubbing and bending their cotter pins at extreme flex and turning. With the JKS one's I'm wondering what happens with the sway bar as the links are completely taken off? Does the remaining sway bar stay in the same position as when it is connected? Does anyone else have a Rubicon and use the JKS quick discos??

 

This is what you need.

http://www.northridge4x4.com/proddet...od=CE-9807FSBX

But if you want disco's JKS is my favorite as they are adjustable.

David

 

I have skyjacker quick dico's. They completely disconnect the sway bar. Once disconnected I just push the sway up a bit. Because the only force on it at that point is gravity, it just stays up and out of the way. Of course I have an X, so with the electronic disconnect on a rubicon the sway bar may act differently when completely disconnected.

 

Can the JKS one's be adjusted as long as the currie one's? And what length should I adjust them to so they won't over extend?

 

The JKS links can get pretty long not sure how long but for your lift you are fine. You want your sway bar at about a 5-10 degree up angle and you will be good to go.

The Nr4x4 Links will work they are plenty long enough also.

David

 

JKS are the best. I have them and love them. They make 2 sizes, one that is adjustable from 1-4" and then one that is adjustable from 4-6" lifts. They are great and easy to use.

 

JKS suggests having the swaybar level, +/- 5°.
(+5 would be better than -5, for the reason you have already discovered...)

When they are removed, you zip tie or bungee the swaybar into a 'neutral' position. (not up - where the mounting post can damage the tire when turning)

 

I got the TF, plan on switching to the JKS. Thats what I wanted in the first place but was sold on the TF cause they have a place to connect to when disconnected, but when in the disconnected position, i hit them during articulation when the wheel is turned a little. guess i could adjust the steer stops or something, but i dont want to lose any of my turning radius. Also, when i grease them, grease doesnt get distibuted over the bushing anywhere other than at the very end nearest the zirk fitting, and just squishes out the side at the top.
I dont think the sway bar will go anywhere when pushed up even though its not attatched to anything, the bushings in the mouthing brackets hold it pretty snug. BUt like somone already said, not sure how it is with the rubi, but i imagine when the swaybar is locked in place, its probably the same. so I/m gettin the JKS, not bashing TF, just like the design of the JKS better.

 

They are actually 0-2 and 2.5-6

Part numbers JKS 2030 and 2034 .

I agree with you they are best.

David

 

So it sounds like with the JKS I can adjust them to a length that will prevent the sway bar from over extending when using the Rubi E-Disco plus I can completely take them off if the E-Disco were to malfunction (which happened once when the fuse for the control switch went out). I'm just curious as if any part of the sway bar will hit my tires when the the JKS links are fully disconnected.