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Teraflex Leveling Kit and Coil Compressors

Old 06-12-2017, 05:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Skippman
Well, I got it all done on Friday. Learned some valuable lessons in the processes.

I ended up disconnecting almost the entire front axle. Shocks, track bar, the links, the brake line retention clips, and the front drive shaft. It was kind of a PITA. I remembered having to do all of this for my 2008's coil lift. Got the spacers in, re-seated the coils, went to put the brake clips back in and sheared off the drivers side bolt by over torquing it.

Pro-tip, when dealing with less than 20 ft lbs of torque, convert to inch lbs and use a smaller torque wrench.

A trip to the hardware store and I was back in business. Once it was sitting on the new tires I had to jack up the passengers side of the axle IIRC to get the track back to realign with the hole so I could put the bolt back.

The rear was a piece of cake, minus having to reach way the hell up in there to unbolt the parking brake clips. I REALLY need to invest in a cordless impact wrench. lol
You shouldn't have had to unbolt the driveshaft to achieve enough droop, but hey, good practice. LOL. Are you talking about the brake clips that attach to the frame and transition from hard to flex line? Hand tight is all I do on those lil 10mm's. Also, if you have a helper, easiest way to line up the TB bolt is just have someone turn the steering wheel in the proper direction while you slide the bolt in.

Cheap corded impact from Harbor Freight goes a long ways to making life easy. Typcially ~$40 after their 20% off coupon. I personally prefer corded as batteries always die when needed most.

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-...nch-68099.html

Glad you got it done! Jeep sits level now?
Old 06-12-2017, 06:14 AM
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I'm surprised you had to do that much to get a spacer in. I forgot the step about removing the brake brackets on the axle, that was kind of important. I followed a couple videos of the process when I did my 2.5" lift. None of the ones I followed required removing the front track bar mount (nevermind the driveshaft). Just remove the shocks and sway bar and a slight push down and the springs fall out.

Good job on getting it done though.
Old 06-12-2017, 05:16 PM
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Awesome Skippman and I know I'm always learning now that I have my JK. Not sure what tire pressure you run but if you drop it down a bit, I run at 31psi, it makes the leveling kit ride really nice compared to stock IMO.

Originally Posted by Smudgeontheglass
I'm surprised you had to do that much to get a spacer in. I forgot the step about removing the brake brackets on the axle, that was kind of important. I followed a couple videos of the process when I did my 2.5" lift. None of the ones I followed required removing the front track bar mount (nevermind the driveshaft). Just remove the shocks and sway bar and a slight push down and the springs fall out.

Good job on getting it done though.
He did a spring leveling kit and the length difference between the stock and Teraflex springs is pretty large since your adding 2 inches up front so it does require unbolting the front drive shaft as it binds on the exhaust , I tried. Thinking back I too had to unbolt the trackball as well but had no issues getting them lined back up.

I kind of wish I came across the videos you watched, could have saved me some time perhaps but I couldn't get it to work that way myself even with the sway bar links disconnected to change them out .
Old 06-13-2017, 05:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Its-a-JK
Awesome Skippman and I know I'm always learning now that I have my JK. Not sure what tire pressure you run but if you drop it down a bit, I run at 31psi, it makes the leveling kit ride really nice compared to stock IMO.



He did a spring leveling kit and the length difference between the stock and Teraflex springs is pretty large since your adding 2 inches up front so it does require unbolting the front drive shaft as it binds on the exhaust , I tried. Thinking back I too had to unbolt the trackball as well but had no issues getting them lined back up.

I kind of wish I came across the videos you watched, could have saved me some time perhaps but I couldn't get it to work that way myself even with the sway bar links disconnected to change them out .
I did the puck leveling kit. My garage door only has about 78" of clearance and I was getting real worried about putting on a proper 2.5" coil lift and clearing. If I'd have done a full lift, I'd likely just have sprung for the AEV.

Yeah, it was the brake line clips on the front axle. I should have just used some Lock Tite and hand tightened it. My pop who was helping me is kinda a stickler about torque specs. Guess it comes from all the years as a biker. Lesson learned.

As for the whole drive shaft thing... I was following TeraFlex's own installation video on their website. They stated for a 2012 (IIRC) or newer you have to disconnect the drive shaft in order to avoid straining the CV joint. Honestly, it was a pain in the arse. But we got it done and now I know how to replace my drive shaft.

I honestly don't recall having to do this much on my 2008 when we did the TF coil lift. But then again I had a couple other Jeepers helping me at that time. This time was all pretty much on my own with help from my pop.
Old 06-13-2017, 06:04 AM
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Well kudos to you for doing it. IDK about everyone else...I don't really enjoy wrenching aspect, but there's a lot of satisfaction in doing the work yourself once it's done.
Old 06-13-2017, 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Skippman
I did the puck leveling kit. My garage door only has about 78" of clearance and I was getting real worried about putting on a proper 2.5" coil lift and clearing. If I'd have done a full lift, I'd likely just have sprung for the AEV.

Yeah, it was the brake line clips on the front axle. I should have just used some Lock Tite and hand tightened it. My pop who was helping me is kinda a stickler about torque specs. Guess it comes from all the years as a biker. Lesson learned.

As for the whole drive shaft thing... I was following TeraFlex's own installation video on their website. They stated for a 2012 (IIRC) or newer you have to disconnect the drive shaft in order to avoid straining the CV joint. Honestly, it was a pain in the arse. But we got it done and now I know how to replace my drive shaft.

I honestly don't recall having to do this much on my 2008 when we did the TF coil lift. But then again I had a couple other Jeepers helping me at that time. This time was all pretty much on my own with help from my pop.
Ah got it. I took this "Nah man, it's the leveling kit, not the budget boost" as meaning it was the spring leveling kit , oops.
Old 06-13-2017, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by resharp001
Well kudos to you for doing it. IDK about everyone else...I don't really enjoy wrenching aspect, but there's a lot of satisfaction in doing the work yourself once it's done.
My JK has brought a bit of the wrenching enjoyment back for me actually that is as long as I don't have to contort into so bizzar position that I generally regret trying to get into in the first place. Its been quite some time since I even wanted to do much of it but that's part of what a Jeep does to you I would say.
Old 06-14-2017, 04:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Its-a-JK
My JK has brought a bit of the wrenching enjoyment back for me actually that is as long as I don't have to contort into so bizzar position that I generally regret trying to get into in the first place. Its been quite some time since I even wanted to do much of it but that's part of what a Jeep does to you I would say.
Yup, pretty much. For me half of the pride of ownership with any of my Jeeps has always been the "I did that" factor. Now I will say, this last time I farmed out all the audio work. I get nervous pulling dash pieces anymore.
Old 06-16-2017, 07:37 AM
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BTW I couldn't get my 2015 JKU axle to drop far enough to install the coils + 2.5" spacer without using spring compressors. The drive shaft hung up on the exhaust. Disconnecting the drive shaft would have made it work, but I had spring compressors on hand so that's what I used. When I put a 3/4" spacer in before it fit just fine without spring compressors. So there's the difference.

Oh and one other thing, if you are putting in hockey pucks to limit bump stop travel, they will fit between the coils with them installed but you likely have to jack up the Jeep and support with jack stands, drop the axle to get them to fit. Or, pull one side onto a ramp to cause the other side to extend so you can slip them in. Depending on how you attach them (adhesive vs. bolts) this may be a quick way to add them on if you find you have rubbing.
Old 06-16-2017, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by mr72
BTW I couldn't get my 2015 JKU axle to drop far enough to install the coils + 2.5" spacer without using spring compressors. The drive shaft hung up on the exhaust. Disconnecting the drive shaft would have made it work, but I had spring compressors on hand so that's what I used. When I put a 3/4" spacer in before it fit just fine without spring compressors. So there's the difference.

Oh and one other thing, if you are putting in hockey pucks to limit bump stop travel, they will fit between the coils with them installed but you likely have to jack up the Jeep and support with jack stands, drop the axle to get them to fit. Or, pull one side onto a ramp to cause the other side to extend so you can slip them in. Depending on how you attach them (adhesive vs. bolts) this may be a quick way to add them on if you find you have rubbing.
I re-routed that exhaust to run behind the crossmember with AFE Y-pipe so long ago....forgot how much of a limiting factor that DS was on the exhaust.

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