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For those wanting to do a super duty and 14 bolt info

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Old 06-25-2018, 05:32 PM
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Default For those wanting to do a super duty and 14 bolt info


So while doing my swap in my 2016 jk with artec trusses for a 04 Dana 60 and 03 14 bolt disc, a few things that should be known since when I did research it seemed that no one said some facts.

14 bolt rear.
1. 14 bolt needs to have emergency brake pads ground down to fit the artec tone rings.
2. 14 bolt needs to have the backing plate studs ground down to fit the new tone ring without rubbing and so you can tighten the hub to spec.
3. A good idea is to have the pinion rotated up to 6-8* degrees before installing brackets.
4. Upper mounts need to be about 3/4” away from brake spider mount so you can use a nut for the upper link.
5. Track bar for the 14bolt needs to be a rubicon express or similar style to fit.
6. Stock brake hoses fit
7. The abs tone ring doesn’t need to be perfect nor machined press fit. You can just tack weld it to the hub after grinding the hub to fit it.
8. Rear tone rings manage abs and esp it does not do speedo
9. Put sensor as close as possible to the gear and should be good to go

dana 60 99-04
1. Rotate pinion up to 3 degrees or so. Ford built in castor use the knuckle near the ball joint to measure castor anything from 3-5 degrees there will drive good.
2. Link arms will be bind if using anything but a flex joint of some type
3. Stock brake lines work
4. If using a high steer arm the best Way to get close to full travel steering is to put close to the ball joint(not on the end)
5. Use a 1.5x8” travel ram anything bigger sucks in parking lots
6. If going 35 spline you need hubs and unit bearings. I suggest Currie (and 8x6.5 bolt pattern) for simplicity. If going artec prepare to buy a new nut on the stock unit bearings cause it’s going to crack. Roller bearing for outer shaft you can get from east coast gear if using artec. Artec uses 08 Dodge Ram front sensors Currie uses stock jk.
7. You have to use the brake dust shield cause it is also a shim for the shafts.
8. The track bar is going to hit the 60 housing. You must either build a custom bar or offset the frame mount.
9. You cannot use a y link style front suspension it won’t give enough room to clear the artec truss not the upper link mounts on the axle
10. 4.5” backspace wheels will fit better than 3.5” (stick out)
11. You must get a programmer to adjust the new gear ratio at a minimum.
12. Clean battery terminals and make sure they are tight! Abs codes will magically come from them if loose

Well that’s all I can think of I am sure there is more I am forgetting but that’s all the info I can think of. Some of you may have different opinions or facts of how it worked for you but this is how mine worked out.
Old 07-10-2018, 07:21 AM
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Perfect thread! I’m about to embark on the same swap.

Did you convert the D60 hubs to 8x6.5? If so what did you do for rotors?
Old 07-10-2018, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by phillypete
Perfect thread! I’m about to embark on the same swap.

Did you convert the D60 hubs to 8x6.5? If so what did you do for rotors?
Ford rotors are hub centric so I used a die grinder and hogged out the stud holes to fit the 8x6.5. Haven’t had a issue with them at all
Old 07-10-2018, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeepfamily#1
Ford rotors are hub centric so I used a die grinder and hogged out the stud holes to fit the 8x6.5. Haven’t had a issue with them at all
That seems efficient, but I need new rotors anyway so I’m hoping to find something ready to go.
Old 07-11-2018, 04:58 AM
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Next question: you mentioned putting the high steer location close to the ball joint. How did you determine the exact location? Can you post a picture of the location?



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