Tie Rod and Drag Link ---- help?
 

08 2 dr Rubicon with 2" lift and 295/70/17 tires, my tie rod and drag link are in need of replacing, it seems like a good time to upgrade. I am looking at the Currie and Synergy systems and would appreciate any feedback on these or others. The winter months I plan on running the stock rims and my research so far leads me to believe the Synergy will rub the wheels and Currie will not. Any and all feedback or suggestions are wanted and welcomed, Thanks.

Shouldn't rub on stock 17" wheels. I've never heard of tgat.

$1330 for just those two Currie bars?? One Thousand Three Hundred and Thirty? I had to write that out. Seriously? Just wow.

So what if Synergy tells you to use a max 4.75" backspace. Spend $600 for their stuff, then buy wheel spacers (or new rims) with the $730 you just saved...

I'd run the DIY kit from RuffStuff and call it a day.
GM 1 ton tie rod ends with 1.5" DOM .250 wall for $130. Done.

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I can't give any advice as far as clearance with the stock wheels, but I ran a Synergy tie rod when I had my D30 and it was stout. Easily twice as heavy as the stocker and it took some abusing. I've always been impressed with Synergy's products.

Do you have pics of your setup? I've never heard of this brand but I'm in need of an upgrade and looking at options.

Ruff stuff is well known in the hardcore offroad world. I used a lot of their stuff on my custom build.

It's a do it your self kit, so you have to weld the bungs in. At least that's how it used to be.

Yeah, the prices on the currie stuff is silly. Unless you wheel hard, why not just replace with stock parts and save the money? I'd bet you could pick up a like new tie rod for next to nothing. Drag link ends aren't expensive new.

Checked it out, looks good and would help keep my co-pilot(wife) from complaining about the dollars spent. Their site mentions reaming out the knuckle(possibly) to fit the TRE's. Did you have to do that? I assume there must be a tool to do that with?

I'd run the DIY kit from RuffStuff and call it a day.
GM 1 ton tie rod ends with 1.5" DOM .250 wall for $130. Done.

Checked it out, looks good and would save $$$$. Their info talks about possibly reaming out the knuckles for the TRE's, did you have to do that? I assume there is a tool for that? I have stock Rubicon front end.

Yeah, the prices on the currie stuff is silly. Unless you wheel hard, why not just replace with stock parts and save the money? I'd bet you could pick up a like new tie rod for next to nothing. Drag link ends aren't expensive new.

I agree on the silly price, the stock unit new would be about $130, I was thinking if I went heavy duty that it would last longer? My wheeling is daily driver to sand dunes to getting in trouble occasionally

Check out the mountain goat series from spohn.net. Great price, with 1 ton ends with factory tapper.

I just replaced mine along with the steering drag link, went with moog on that.

I am in the market for a new drag link and tie rod also. I was looking at the synergy too. How do you know if you need a flip drag as compared to a replacement drag link? I am running an OME HD lift and have JKS trackbar and disconnects.

Have you seen the new TeraFlex HD Tie Rod & Draglinks?

The TeraFlex HD tie rod kit is designed for extreme conditions that typically will cause factory steering components to bend and fail. The HD 1.6” O.D. 4140 heat treated chromoly tie rod is over 200% stronger than the factory tie rod. The forged tie rod end housing is designed specifically for JKs and allows proper clearance for use with factory 17” wheels. The tie rod end joint incorporates the same features found in our ball joints, including a 4140 chrome moly Ball/stud and 1045 carbon steel housing. It also features adjustable preload tension to ensure proper long term durability. The joint is pressed into the rod end housing and secured with a snap ring. When oriented in the Tie Rod configuration, the joint offers a total of 14 degrees of movement to minimize tie rod roll, but will still allow maximum turning. The HD drag link is fully forged to eliminate any excess movement during hard steering maneuvers and utilizes an oversized DOM factory style adjusting collar and pinch clamp for simple adjustments. The HD drag link incorporates the same rod end housing joints as used in the HD tie rod.

Attachment 608710

You buy direct from TeraFlex here: https://teraflex.com/shop_items/54d5...a57b6ef9ef9980 or from your favorite TeraFlex dealer.

#1853900 $749.99 JK HD Tie Rod & Drag Link Kit

#1853905 $749.99 JK HD Tie Rod & Flipped Drag Link Kit

#1853910 $399.99 JK HD Tie Rod

#1853920 $397.99 JK HD Drag Link

#1853930 $379.99 JK Flipped Drag Link

A Fox #803-02-039 Tie Mounting Clamp is required for mounting the stabilizer to the HD Tie Rod


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O5QUlEWZ2-M

$400 +/- vs $150 for the RuffStuff, which is what I run on mine. Theres also a company called offroad designs that have drags and tie rods.

Personaly I beat the hell out of mine and habe never had a problem. I knew I needed bigger and stronger that factory but wasnt going to pay those outragous prices. Sone of your name brand want close to $1k for a tie rod and drag combo. I bought a Rough Stuff and made my drag link and was out $300.

While pure logic, the reality is that people prefer to pay twice as much as they need to. My favorite example is the RK Pro tie rod that is $530. It is two rod ends and a piece of 7075 aluminum. They sell the rod ends for $200. You can buy the 7075 bar already machined for around $120. Just requires that you screw the ends into it (you know, like the complicated procedure for screwing in a light bulb). So, would you pay $320 or $530? You'd think the answer is obvious, yet everyone pays the $530. I like this example because there is no DIY fabrication. I get that some people don't want to (or can't) weld their own parts together.

Although, places like WFO Concepts will thread the DOM thereby avoiding weld in bungs, OR they will send the bungs welded in. My custom drag link from WFO (threads machined in and one ton drag link ends) was $150. $15 and they reamed my pitman arm too.

I think the reality is that the JK world is unaware of the massive offroad industry that has been around for decades. You say names like Ruff Stuff, WFO, Branik, Ballistic, Blue Torch, etc., and they look at you like you're crazy. Oh man, and the same with driveshafts! :thumbsup:

The amount of money one can save in the long run by purchasing a welder and learning how to use it....

Would this be the one? I was going to take mine in next month for the Synergy bar and Dynatrac Ball Joints. My Ball Joints are shot after 6k miles and I wanted to put in the strongest part. I am mechanically inept so I don't do my own work?


Jeep JK Heavy Duty Tie Rod
WFO TR-JK-KIT ea $179.99 Qty
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One of the weakest links on the very capable Jeep JK is the tie rod. This replacement helps alleviate concerns when wheeling in an area with a lot of rocks.

Our bar is made out of 1.375" OD x .313" wall DOM tubing which allows you to run your stock steering stabilizer bracket. We thread the tubing, mill in wrench flats for easy adjustment, and mark the end that has the left hand threads.

This kit comes with threaded DOM tubing, Left and Right greaseable offset tie rod ends and jam nuts. You can adjust the bar while on the vehicle!

This set up will clear most aftermarket heavy duty differential covers.

Ships Raw Steel so you can easily touch it up with spray paint.

MADE IN THE USA!



WARNING: Alignment is suggested after installing this part! WIIL NOT FIT WITH 16" RIMS or STOCK 17" RIMS!

That's the place. They'll also custom make whatever you need. Usually there is no major change in price. Call them and tell them what you need and they'll take care of you.

The prices most of these JK manufacturers charge is insane. You're being hit with a major convenience premium (or in some cases, supporting a massive marketing budget). In fairness, certain materials cost more, such as chromoly. Synergy will usually replace a worn TRE whereas with WFO, you go down to the local parts store and spend $35. Personally, I'd rather pay less and not have to deal with proprietary parts that are not easily sourced.

That all said, I'll admit that the tie rod Teraflex posted looks to be no joke based on the specs. Heat treated chromoly is the real deal and not easy to make. It has to be machined and then heat treated, so no buying heat treated raw material. The heat treating process is also very specific. Use the wrong process and the metal becomes brittle. The OD is larger than anything out there (almost) and diameter is where the strength is. Lastly, a straight tube is always stronger, so putting the offset in the ends is ideal. The ends sound cool, but we'll have to wait for real world data. What I find interesting is you never see these high end parts on legit rigs. True, some of us hardcore type people won't pay the price, but mostly I think the manufacturer doesn't want to see their products put to the test.

Ill never buy Tereflex because the lame ass videos. That guy gets on my nerves.

Ruff stuff and off road designs are the same way. Call them and they can build you anything. I forgot about Blue Torch Fab. I have ordered amsome gussets from them before.

I was all set to go with ruff stuff as I don't mind welding - especially if it saves me money. Then I read quite a few reports of folks bending them and hearing using DOM isn't the best use for a tiered.

I don't know - I guess Dom is more prone to bending than chromoly? Especially if you plan on going hydro assist in the future?

I'm sure someone with more metallurgical knowledge can clarify.

The guy I bought my tires from here in Connecticut. He was on this forum too. He had a bent Ruff stuff tie rod in his garage. I remember asking about it lol I believe he was selling its replacement Carolina metal Masters.

I wonder what material MC was using when that members Hydro bent their tie rod ?

How do you know if you need a flip drag link or replacement drag link?

Flipping the drag link and raising the track bar axle mount corrects steering geometry. The ideal situation is having the TB and DL parallel or as close to parallel as possible. It helps correct flighty steering at higher lift heights.

It becomes personal preference for everyone, but at larger lifts can be seen as more "necessary". The same lifts are slightly different on every jeep and some might think they need it, while others don't. Its more for steering comfort and some correction to factory geometry.

You do have to run more bump stop, looking some up travel. I believe it's a 3" minimum, but depending on lift height, tire size, and fender clearance you could already be running that. But some people don't want to lose the up travel and the geometry is a trade off.

There's even a cheaper way from RuffStuff. Order the offset fm 1 ton rod ends and buy DOM locally. Loads cheaper that way.
I hate the stereotypical jk owner mentality, paying 4x as much as needed.

Reaming th knuckle really isn't that big of a deal.

When it comes time for new control arms I'll be building mine. I like knowing the quality of the parts in my jeep.

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