Tool List for the OME LT Kit Install
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JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 383
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From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Tool List for the OME LT Kit Install
Hi Everyone,
Rather than try to post all of my experience in one thread, I thought I would break down my OME LT installation experience into three threads: 1.) Tools 2.) Reference Links and 3.) Advice Which Might be Helpful.
I will limit the comments as much as possible. If there are any questions, please feel free to ask.
This first thread will address the tools that I ended up needing during the course of the install.
1. Torque Wrench - Foot-Pound - Must be capable of at least 125 Foot-Pounds.
2. Torque Wrench - Inch-Pound - This is only required for the brake line Banjo bolts.
3. 1/2" Drill Bit and Electric Drill - Required for enlarging the sway bar link holes (to allow for English rod ends through the metric holes) for the adjustable swaybar links. (Comments: The rear sway bar is pretty easy to enlarge for the adjustable links supplied with the kit. If you plan on moving the rear sway bar links to the front, which I ended up doing, as other have suggested, nothing needs to be done to the holes on the front sway bar. Enlarging the front holes for me was time consuming, and in the end I needed to use the rear sway bar links, anyway. If anyone intends on installing the adjustable links for the front sway bar, my personal experience is that a 1/2" drill bit won't cut it. I burned up two bits. I finally tried one poster's suggestion regarding the use of a small metal grinding tool for a Dremel rotary tool. (I'll make an attempt to come back and edit this thread by giving recognition where due; but, for now I thought it would be better to try to post the tools in time for those installing the kit this weekend.) He thought it was a diamond bit... I'm not sure what mine was; but, it worked to remove enough metal to allow the threads to clear. I think other bits for die grinder type tools may work as well.)
4. Sawzall and A Good Metal Cutting Blade - This is required for cutting the passenger side upper control arm mounting bolt at the frame attachment point. (Comment: The bolt was a lot harder than my first metal cutting blade. I used an 18 TPI DeWalt blade that made easy work of the bolt.)
5. Magnetic Pick-Up Tool - This tool made rather easy work out of retreiving the socket that I popped off of the extension when I was installing the new front control arm bolts. The socket rolled down inside the frame; but, the pick-up tool was able to get far enough inside the rail to pick it up. (Comments: Highly recommended if you are a bit of a klutz like me at times. I would also recommend putting a layer of masking tape over the male portion of the socket extension to give an interference fit to your socket if your sockets don't fit snug. You might also consider packing something loosely inside the rail to prevent bolts, washers or sockets from rolling down into the frame rail if they come loose.)
6. Pry-Tools - I have an inexpensive set from Harbor Freight that made the impossible job of installing the spring retainers a little more possible.
7. Double Sided Contact Tape - Used for the installation of the rear spring retainer washer and nut.
8. 1/4" Hex Wrench - This should be long enough to reach the hex screw for the rear spring retainers with your hand being outside the spring.
9. Magnetic Angle Finder - This is what has been discussed for measuring the caster during the alignment.
10. Grease Gun and Grease - This can be done later; but, greasing the Johnny Joints on the Currier adjustable control arms is recommended.
11. Breaker Bar and Extension - This is required for loosening the suspension fasteners. (Comments: I also used an impact wrench; but, for the number of fasteners that I needed to remove, it really didn't save as much time as I thought it would. It was still helpful, though.)
12. Electric Drill and Drill Bit (the Size of the Brake Line Bracket Bolts) - These were required to add holes to the Crown-supplied brake line brackets for the left side of the JK. Had I used the supplied holes on the JK, the brake lines would have been stretched too far.
13. Ratchet Strap - This was used to pull the axle toward the frame during the centering of the rear axle. (Comment: It wasn't necessary to use a strap on the front axle. David suggested that merely turning the steering wheel would move the frame relative to the axle. It worked well.)
14. 18" Crescent Wrench or Pipe Wrench - Required for tightening the jamb nuts on the upper control arms and track bars.
15. Brake Bleeder Kit (if you Plan on A One Man Operation).
The general list of tools should include:
1. Metric Sockets - Deep and Shallow
2. Metric Wrenches - Box and Open End
3. English Sockets - Shallow (I believe, at least that shallow were all that were required.)
4. Extensions for Sockets (Varied Lengths) and Universals
5. English Wrenches - Box and Open End
6. High-Lift Floor Jack (Comments: Two (2) floor jacks would be great during the installation; but, one (1) will work in conjuction with the jack stands. The floor jack I used was rated at 3 tons and was sufficient.)
7. Bottle Jack (Comment: I found that a bottle jack and a small block of wood scrap worked great under the ball joint at the front knuckle for positioning the axle during alignment. (Is knuckle the correct term here?)
8. Tall Jack Stands - Minimum Reach: 21 Inches (My Opinion); Quantity: Two (2); Rating: At Least 3 Tone; Purpose: Supporting the Frame with Two (2) Wheels Off. (Comment: I used a pair of six (6) ton jacks for this with good results.)
9. Shorter Jack Stands - Reach: Approximately 12 Inches (My Opinion); Quantity: Two (2); Rating: One (1) Ton or Greater - Purpose: Supporting the Axles During Control Arm Installation and Alignment.
10. Needle Nose Pliers
11. Tape Measurer
12. Personal Protective Gear
13. Wheel Chocks
Other materials which were required:
1. Brake Fluid (Check your Owner's Manual for specifications. Regular (Non-Synthetic) DOT 30 in my case was used. I would recommend having at least one (1) quart on hand.)
2. Wire Ties.
3. White Lithium Grease (Recommended for the front bump stop extensions).
4. Notebook and Writing Tool (for Notes and Measurements (and for Questions).
5. Camera - For Recording Progress and Documenting Problems
I am sure something else will come to mind; but, this is a pretty good summary of the tools I used.
If I missed anything, maybe someone can post it here.
I will work on the summary of installation tips later this evening.
I hope this helps.
Jeff
Rather than try to post all of my experience in one thread, I thought I would break down my OME LT installation experience into three threads: 1.) Tools 2.) Reference Links and 3.) Advice Which Might be Helpful.
I will limit the comments as much as possible. If there are any questions, please feel free to ask.
This first thread will address the tools that I ended up needing during the course of the install.
1. Torque Wrench - Foot-Pound - Must be capable of at least 125 Foot-Pounds.
2. Torque Wrench - Inch-Pound - This is only required for the brake line Banjo bolts.
3. 1/2" Drill Bit and Electric Drill - Required for enlarging the sway bar link holes (to allow for English rod ends through the metric holes) for the adjustable swaybar links. (Comments: The rear sway bar is pretty easy to enlarge for the adjustable links supplied with the kit. If you plan on moving the rear sway bar links to the front, which I ended up doing, as other have suggested, nothing needs to be done to the holes on the front sway bar. Enlarging the front holes for me was time consuming, and in the end I needed to use the rear sway bar links, anyway. If anyone intends on installing the adjustable links for the front sway bar, my personal experience is that a 1/2" drill bit won't cut it. I burned up two bits. I finally tried one poster's suggestion regarding the use of a small metal grinding tool for a Dremel rotary tool. (I'll make an attempt to come back and edit this thread by giving recognition where due; but, for now I thought it would be better to try to post the tools in time for those installing the kit this weekend.) He thought it was a diamond bit... I'm not sure what mine was; but, it worked to remove enough metal to allow the threads to clear. I think other bits for die grinder type tools may work as well.)
4. Sawzall and A Good Metal Cutting Blade - This is required for cutting the passenger side upper control arm mounting bolt at the frame attachment point. (Comment: The bolt was a lot harder than my first metal cutting blade. I used an 18 TPI DeWalt blade that made easy work of the bolt.)
5. Magnetic Pick-Up Tool - This tool made rather easy work out of retreiving the socket that I popped off of the extension when I was installing the new front control arm bolts. The socket rolled down inside the frame; but, the pick-up tool was able to get far enough inside the rail to pick it up. (Comments: Highly recommended if you are a bit of a klutz like me at times. I would also recommend putting a layer of masking tape over the male portion of the socket extension to give an interference fit to your socket if your sockets don't fit snug. You might also consider packing something loosely inside the rail to prevent bolts, washers or sockets from rolling down into the frame rail if they come loose.)
6. Pry-Tools - I have an inexpensive set from Harbor Freight that made the impossible job of installing the spring retainers a little more possible.
7. Double Sided Contact Tape - Used for the installation of the rear spring retainer washer and nut.
8. 1/4" Hex Wrench - This should be long enough to reach the hex screw for the rear spring retainers with your hand being outside the spring.
9. Magnetic Angle Finder - This is what has been discussed for measuring the caster during the alignment.
10. Grease Gun and Grease - This can be done later; but, greasing the Johnny Joints on the Currier adjustable control arms is recommended.
11. Breaker Bar and Extension - This is required for loosening the suspension fasteners. (Comments: I also used an impact wrench; but, for the number of fasteners that I needed to remove, it really didn't save as much time as I thought it would. It was still helpful, though.)
12. Electric Drill and Drill Bit (the Size of the Brake Line Bracket Bolts) - These were required to add holes to the Crown-supplied brake line brackets for the left side of the JK. Had I used the supplied holes on the JK, the brake lines would have been stretched too far.
13. Ratchet Strap - This was used to pull the axle toward the frame during the centering of the rear axle. (Comment: It wasn't necessary to use a strap on the front axle. David suggested that merely turning the steering wheel would move the frame relative to the axle. It worked well.)
14. 18" Crescent Wrench or Pipe Wrench - Required for tightening the jamb nuts on the upper control arms and track bars.
15. Brake Bleeder Kit (if you Plan on A One Man Operation).
The general list of tools should include:
1. Metric Sockets - Deep and Shallow
2. Metric Wrenches - Box and Open End
3. English Sockets - Shallow (I believe, at least that shallow were all that were required.)
4. Extensions for Sockets (Varied Lengths) and Universals
5. English Wrenches - Box and Open End
6. High-Lift Floor Jack (Comments: Two (2) floor jacks would be great during the installation; but, one (1) will work in conjuction with the jack stands. The floor jack I used was rated at 3 tons and was sufficient.)
7. Bottle Jack (Comment: I found that a bottle jack and a small block of wood scrap worked great under the ball joint at the front knuckle for positioning the axle during alignment. (Is knuckle the correct term here?)
8. Tall Jack Stands - Minimum Reach: 21 Inches (My Opinion); Quantity: Two (2); Rating: At Least 3 Tone; Purpose: Supporting the Frame with Two (2) Wheels Off. (Comment: I used a pair of six (6) ton jacks for this with good results.)
9. Shorter Jack Stands - Reach: Approximately 12 Inches (My Opinion); Quantity: Two (2); Rating: One (1) Ton or Greater - Purpose: Supporting the Axles During Control Arm Installation and Alignment.
10. Needle Nose Pliers
11. Tape Measurer
12. Personal Protective Gear
13. Wheel Chocks
Other materials which were required:
1. Brake Fluid (Check your Owner's Manual for specifications. Regular (Non-Synthetic) DOT 30 in my case was used. I would recommend having at least one (1) quart on hand.)
2. Wire Ties.
3. White Lithium Grease (Recommended for the front bump stop extensions).
4. Notebook and Writing Tool (for Notes and Measurements (and for Questions).
5. Camera - For Recording Progress and Documenting Problems
I am sure something else will come to mind; but, this is a pretty good summary of the tools I used.
If I missed anything, maybe someone can post it here.
I will work on the summary of installation tips later this evening.
I hope this helps.
Jeff
JK Forum Regional Rep
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,852
Likes: 0
From: Hudson, WI
Nothing useful to add but I just want to say thanks very much! I'm seriously considering this lift depending on the results of some of the other installations that are taking place. This list alone saved me at least 3 trips to the store and probably 2 hours of back and fourth. That's real value. Thanks again and keep em coming!
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Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 383
Likes: 0
From: Indianapolis, Indiana
Calypso... Not sure who your post was meant for....
Hi Calypso,
I'm not sure which one of us your post was meant for; but, I am getting closer.
The lift is complete; but, I just received driveshafts on Saturday. Once I get it presentable, and the weather gets a little nicer, I'll take some pics.
Take Care
Jeff
I'm not sure which one of us your post was meant for; but, I am getting closer.
The lift is complete; but, I just received driveshafts on Saturday. Once I get it presentable, and the weather gets a little nicer, I'll take some pics.
Take Care
Jeff