After removing tires and calipers, to get proper preload on the pinion nut. How, does one keep the pinion from moving while trying to torque down the pinion nut? Because this might take several tries to get it right, I do not want to keep take calipers and tires off.

I, believe I read that using a steel bar with a u shaped notch, so you can get a wrench on the pinion nut, with holes drilled in it that will attach to the end of the yoke is whats preferred. But, incase I do not have was wondering if another method to keep pinion from turning while wheels and calipers are off?

 

What are you doing? Changing out gears, changing out the axle pinion,,,???

 

I use a big pipe wrench on the yoke, 3/4" breaker bar, and two long pipes to get enough torque.

 

Or if the diff is not removed from the Jeep; I use one of these with a breaker bar against the floor or frame and you're free to torque with both hands on torque wrench.



However, the easiest (and best) way is to carefully use an impact as necessary to acheive the proper preload in in-lbs of torque. 10-20in lbs for same bearings, 20-40in lbs for new.

 

Changing the flanges for new Coast F/R DS's.

 

The flange bolts aren't strong enough for one of these when crushing the crush sleeve. I bent two plates and idk how many bolts.... But for what the OP is trying to do this will work.

 

What is it called and where do you get it?

 

Never had an issue yet w new crush sleeves myself.

 

I have this Ratech one Pinion Yoke Holder Tool Ratech 18001 : Amazon.com : Automotive

and I've not had any bending issues. I could see that happening if the tool is not tightly bolted to the flange I suppose but I've always made sure it was. YMMV

 

When I changed mine out, I just got em good n' tight with some red loctite. I've read not to worry about the crush sleeve when just changing out flanges. But I also understand doing it the right way.