Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Transmission lines from mopar cooler

 
Old 03-23-2019, 07:21 PM
  #1  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
EHarris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: HB, So Cal
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Default Transmission lines from mopar cooler

I was doing some work on the JK today and saw that my transmission lines have a weeping leak. It's also time for me to do the filter and new fluid too. I have included a picture of the hoses I'm looking for but can't seem to find them on their own. It's a 2008 3.8l and I added on the mopar cooler about 2 years after I got it.

1. Does anyone have a part number for these two hoses and know how to change them? Do I need a special disconnect tool to do so?

2. When dropping the tranny pan should I remove the cross member? I've never removed it before. Is it just as simple as say removing a skid? Everything lines back up nice and easy? Does a swivel get the hard to reach bolt? I've seen a YouTube video of a guy putting a jack on the transfer case to raise it up to get a ratchet in the hard to reach bolts? Just looking for the easiest process since it's my first time dropping the pan and filter. I had an off-road shop do it a while back before a big trip and I didn't have the time.

3. How much transmission fluid does it take to fill back up with the aftermarket cooler installed. Any tips on how I can make sure i have the correct amount of fluid? Maybe mark it now before I start?

Thanks in advance.....
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	photo766.jpg
Views:	79
Size:	1,007.1 KB
ID:	677351  
EHarris is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 12:26 AM
  #2  
Super Moderator
 
Rednroll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,938
Liked 104 Times in 97 Posts
Default

1. Sorry, unsure. This is all I could find.
https://www.moparpartssurplus.com/p/...5056624AD.html

2. You don't need to remove the cross member. What you do is remove all the bolts besides the 2 corner ones that are on the side of the cross member, put a pan under the side without the bolts, then loosen the ones behind the cross member and then pry the side loose that is not under the cross member so the fluid runs out that side and into the pan. Then gradually loosen and eventually remove the bolts under the cross member once the fluid is drained. That will provide you a controlled spill from the side away from the cross member. I used a swivel and a ratchet wrench on the 2 bolts that were hard to reach like you mentioned, and didn't need to raise the T-case.

For putting it back together, everything will line back up but I'm a fan of the lube locker gaskets since I'm not very good at putting a bead of RTV on while gravity is working against me and hoping I get no leaks. Look for the Lube Locker gasket for the 42RLE trans. This is the one I got from Amazon. I have the lube locker gaskets on my front and rear diffy covers and trans pan. They work great and make things easier for install and removal.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOU6UJA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BOU6UJA/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Filter bolts= 8-10 ft-lbs
Outer pan bolt torque = 10-15 ft-lbs

Another thing I would suggest, so you don't need to go through this again and wished I had done it when I changed my tranny fluid last summer is to purchase a replacement trans pan with a drain plug. I'll be installing the Mopar trans cooler in the spring, where I figure I'll just go ahead and change the fluid while I'm at it, and will be installing a pan with a drain plug this time around.
Here's a Dorman for the 42RLE trans with a drain plug.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z7O4OVA/?coliid=I3LVDKQ7H8TGS2&colid=20TXEAD6EBPRA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z7O4OVA/?coliid=I3LVDKQ7H8TGS2&colid=20TXEAD6EBPRA&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

3. Going from memory it was 4-5 quarts. What you'll want to do, is measure how much you drained out....assuming you did a controlled spill and got it all in the pan and then put that same amount back in. I believe I purchased 7 quarts prior and that was plenty enough. They carry the Mopar ATF+4 fluid at Walmart. Mopar P/N: 68218057AB (Quart), Mopar P/N: 68218058AA (Gallon), Mopar P/N: 68218058AC (5 Liter).

Ronjenx posted this useful gem as well to further check trans fluid level.

Last edited by Rednroll; 03-24-2019 at 12:52 AM.
Rednroll is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 12:59 AM
  #3  
JK Jedi
 
resharp001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Willow Park, TX
Posts: 4,299
Liked 212 Times in 207 Posts
Default

I have the 3.6L, but I'd think this would be relevant for the and for 3.8L as well....or anything that doesn't have a drain plug. Doing a "controlled spill" was the biggest pain in the ass for me, and I ended up making a complete mess (fortunately just working in the back part of our property). If I were to do it again, since I didn't not replace the pan with a model that has a drain plug, I'll be using a Mittyvac to suck as much ATF out the dipstick as possible.

This commentary may or may not be relevant for the 3.8L as I have a 3.6L. That rear bolt was a booger. I have relocated my exhaust, so have more clearance than most only having to deal with the crossmember, and it was still a hassle. Not sure if yours is the same, but the newer ones are a torx bit. What I really needed was a small, flat bit-driver to get in there. Something like this with the appropriate bit-

Amazon Amazon

Last edited by resharp001; 03-24-2019 at 01:03 AM.
resharp001 is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 02:08 AM
  #4  
Super Moderator
 
Rednroll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,938
Liked 104 Times in 97 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by resharp001 View Post
I have the 3.6L, but I'd think this would be relevant for the and for 3.8L as well....or anything that doesn't have a drain plug. Doing a "controlled spill" was the biggest pain in the ass for me, and I ended up making a complete mess (fortunately just working in the back part of our property). If I were to do it again, since I didn't not replace the pan with a model that has a drain plug, I'll be using a Mittyvac to suck as much ATF out the dipstick as possible.

This commentary may or may not be relevant for the 3.8L as I have a 3.6L. That rear bolt was a booger. I have relocated my exhaust, so have more clearance than most only having to deal with the crossmember, and it was still a hassle. Not sure if yours is the same, but the newer ones are a torx bit. What I really needed was a small, flat bit-driver to get in there. Something like this with the appropriate bit-

https://www.amazon.com/MulWark-Quart...86571252&psc=1
I'll admit my controlled spill wasn't very controlled as well. Hindsight 20/20, I likely loosened the 2 bolts holding the pan up a tad too much. The problem with the controlled spill is that the RTV is holding that pan up even with the bolts out, then once you break that seal, the fluid comes gushing out. The key to getting a good controlled spill is to barely loosen the last 2 bolts holding the pan up on the cross member side and then take a plastic putty knife or equivalent tool and gently split the RTV on the other side so all the fluid doesn't come rushing out at once.

Rednroll is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 02:31 AM
  #5  
JK Jedi
 
resharp001's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2013
Location: Willow Park, TX
Posts: 4,299
Liked 212 Times in 207 Posts
Default

The '12+ actually has a rubberish type gasket rather than RTV. Seems like an improvement. That would indeed suck to not only clean it off, but then try to reinstall the pan nicely without it sliding around a ton and screwing up your bead of RTV. If that is the case, a LubeLocker or similar is probably a really good idea.

I see it like this....if you do the controlled spill, definitely replace that pan. You'll thank yourself the next time you do this maintenance. If you go the mittvac route, you'll get future use out of that as well, and at that point no need to replace the pan. You should do one or the other though IMO.
resharp001 is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:02 AM
  #6  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
EHarris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: HB, So Cal
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Default

I've got the controlled spill covered because I have access to a TopSider and plan to use it. Then when I get the pan off I should have an easier time with the fluid.

I would love to use lube lockers but I've got the lifetime power train. I was specifically told no by the dealer with those even if they are superior to RTV. This same no holds true for a pan with a drain plug in it. At 160k I'm really pushing it by not allowing the dealer to do the work. With the lifetime powertrain you sometimes have to find the happy medium of giving the dealer jobs that you know won't break the bank so they cannot try to cancel the warranty. I really only flush the fluid every 60k anyway so it's the 3rd time for me. It's good to know Walmart sells the mopar so will at least make them happy by adding their brand along with mopar filter from rock auto.

I figured standard would be 4.5-5 quarts and maybe the extra cooler took up to a full quart more? But I'll certainly measure. I may have to buy all the pieces of the trans cooler all over again but only use the hoses that are leaking.
EHarris is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:05 AM
  #7  
JK Freak
 
SoK66's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Colorado
Posts: 649
Liked 9 Times in 9 Posts
Default

Fwiw, when I did the 60k trans filter change on my '09 JKUR I was able to get the pan off with small 1/4" wobbles, but get tiny back on wasn't possible without removing the trans mount nuts and jacking the powertrain up with a floor jack under the transfer case. Doing so I could get the pan on with RTV cleanly and get all the bolts started and torqued to spec.

The two trans lines are sold as a unit. Check Mopar Parts Overstock, etc. Begore you replace them do yourself a favor and get the factory suggested disconnect tool by Lisle. It'll make disconnecting them a breeze. You can do it with a pick tool but you'll make a big mess with ATF r&r'ing the upper line at the trans.

Another thought before you replace the lines. Those lines were the subject of a service action some years ago. You might be able to get them replaced by a dealer FOC. If not, some folks cut the metal crimps that hold the rubber hoses to the stock lines free with a Dremel wheel. Pull off the rubber lines and replace both with automatic trans cooler hose and appropriate hose clamps. Makes fixing the leak much easier.
SoK66 is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 07:37 AM
  #8  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
EHarris's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: HB, So Cal
Posts: 1,275
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by SoK66
Fwiw, when I did the 60k trans filter change on my '09 JKUR I was able to get the pan off with small 1/4" wobbles, but get tiny back on wasn't possible without removing the trans mount nuts and jacking the powertrain up with a floor jack under the transfer case. Doing so I could get the pan on with RTV cleanly and get all the bolts started and torqued to spec.

The two trans lines are sold as a unit. Check Mopar Parts Overstock, etc. Begore you replace them do yourself a favor and get the factory suggested disconnect tool by Lisle. It'll make disconnecting them a breeze. You can do it with a pick tool but you'll make a big mess with ATF r&r'ing the upper line at the trans.

Another thought before you replace the lines. Those lines were the subject of a service action some years ago. You might be able to get them replaced by a dealer FOC. If not, some folks cut the metal crimps that hold the rubber hoses to the stock lines free with a Dremel wheel. Pull off the rubber lines and replace both with automatic trans cooler hose and appropriate hose clamps. Makes fixing the leak much easier.
Now that you mention, I do remember them having to check the transmission lines for that years back. If anyone reading this knows the letter that came in the mail let me know. I'm gonna look for it myself. I save stupid crap like that. Lol
EHarris is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 11:43 AM
  #9  
Super Moderator
 
Rednroll's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: SE Michigan
Posts: 3,938
Liked 104 Times in 97 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by EHarris View Post
Now that you mention, I do remember them having to check the transmission lines for that years back. If anyone reading this knows the letter that came in the mail let me know. I'm gonna look for it myself. I save stupid crap like that. Lol
If it was a recall or campaign, then there is an app for your smartphone from FCA called "My Jeep". You create an account and enter your vin into the app. If you have multiple FCA vehicles you can enter multiple vehicles into the app. The app will tell you any recalls that you have open, as well as show you any that you have performed. It will also show all the service records of when you brought it into the dealership. It also has an owner's manual and your factory build sheet. If it was a TSB, then those aren't included in the app.

Here's my Recall log from the My Jeep app for my 2009.

Last edited by Rednroll; 03-24-2019 at 11:49 AM.
Rednroll is offline  
Old 03-24-2019, 05:57 PM
  #10  
JK Enthusiast
 
MTNBKR's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Fairborn OH
Posts: 220
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Default

There was a recall on the 08s for leaky trans lines. Got mine replaced that way in 2010. Good luck
MTNBKR is offline  

Quick Reply: Transmission lines from mopar cooler


Contact Us - About Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service

© 2019 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands

 
  • Ask a Question
    Get answers from community experts
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: