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Re-Gearing Question

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Old 01-30-2018, 08:23 AM
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Default Re-Gearing Question

My rig is a 2017 JKUR, I've got 15k miles on it.
Do I need to purchase the Master Rebuild kit?
Ive heard and read conflicting opinions. There is a big price difference so I don't want to pay for something I don't need.
Would I be taking a big risk by not buying the kit?
My plan is/was, to purchase the parts, and only pay a shop to do the install, It's not a job I'm comfortable taking on.

Thoughts/Opinions?

Thanks in advance.
:{)

Last edited by Pmedic920; 01-31-2018 at 11:22 AM.
Old 01-30-2018, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Pmedic920
My rig is a 2017 JKUR, I've got 15k miles on it.
Do I need to purchase the Master Rebuild kit?
Ive heard and read conflicting opinions. There is a big price difference so I don't want to pay for something I don't need.
Would I be taking a big risk by not buying the kit?
My plan is/was, to purchase the parts, and only pay a shop to do the install, It's not a job I'm comfortable taking on.

Thoughts/Opinions?

Thanks in advance.
:{)
I have already bought my gear sets with mini kits as I was thinking I could get away with not replacing the side/carrier bearings since I only have 44K miles on the Jeep and have changed the diff oil a couple of times with in that mileage.

My plan was to buy the pinion bearings separately (can get National ones though a auto parts store) and go from a there. Turns out the couple of shops I have spoke with say they won’t even do the job without replacing them 😕

I’m going to talk to a couple more shops to get there take on it but not expecting anything different but who knows.

To me I would think if a guy is careful enough changing the ring gear with the bearings still on can be done but maybe I’m just being cheap and way off base.

So my suggestion would be to talk to some shops and see what they tell you and then decide what to do.

Old 01-30-2018, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MacRubi2


I have already bought my gear sets with mini kits as I was thinking I could get away with not replacing the side/carrier bearings since I only have 44K miles on the Jeep and have changed the diff oil a couple of times with in that mileage.

My plan was to buy the pinion bearings separately (can get National ones though a auto parts store) and go from a there. Turns out the couple of shops I have spoke with say they won’t even do the job without replacing them 😕

I’m going to talk to a couple more shops to get there take on it but not expecting anything different but who knows.

To me I would think if a guy is careful enough changing the ring gear with the bearings still on can be done but maybe I’m just being cheap and way off base.

So my suggestion would be to talk to some shops and see what they tell you and then decide what to do.

Thank you, it's probably good advice.
Fact is, I don't have a local (in my home town) shop that I know I can trust, I'm probably going to have to go into Houston to find a good shop. I haven't started that process yet.

If any Houston folks are reading this, I'm open to suggestions.
Old 01-30-2018, 04:03 PM
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Most shops I've dealt with will not warranty the work with out a master install kit.
Old 01-30-2018, 05:08 PM
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Definitely call around. When I was looking, I checked with 8 local shops, and got very different answers on rates, policies and warranties. Some would not install user-supplied gears at all. Some would, but would not warranty their work. And others would warranty the work but of course not the parts. There was also a big difference in the length of the warranty period between the shops, from a few months to a few years, to extended warranties that supposedly last a lifetime.

Gather as much info as you can, don't just look at the low low price tag. And if you end up driving a ways to get it done, remember that if there is a problem, you may be paying for a trailer or flatbed to get it back to that shop!!
Old 01-30-2018, 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
Definitely call around. When I was looking, I checked with 8 local shops, and got very different answers on rates, policies and warranties. Some would not install user-supplied gears at all. Some would, but would not warranty their work. And others would warranty the work but of course not the parts. There was also a big difference in the length of the warranty period between the shops, from a few months to a few years, to extended warranties that supposedly last a lifetime.

Gather as much info as you can, don't just look at the low low price tag. And if you end up driving a ways to get it done, remember that if there is a problem, you may be paying for a trailer or flatbed to get it back to that shop!!
Yes warranty can definitely play into the deal as far as price and what parts the shop will warranty and how long.

And I may have been trying to save a few dollars just to find out this is not the best route to take.

Guess I’ll find out.....
Old 01-31-2018, 07:46 AM
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As the guys are already highlighting, warranty comes in to play. You might also be surprised to see the costs generally about the same if you supply the parts and pay labor vs. just letting the shop supply the proper parts and labor as a package. Generally I don't think you're any better off. I'd also say that you DO need master install kits. The kits will include new bearings, seals, and shims, all which you need. You've not going to install new gears and be able to use the factory shims.....just not gonna happen, and you should not use the old bearings IMO....not to mention you'll need new seals and SHOULD use new bolts on the ring gear. There's just really no escaping the need for a master install kit, 1 set for front and 1 set for the rear.

Also, a word of caution on traveling to/from a shop. They may or may not advise you on break-in for the new gears. Read up from the manufacture if you're not familiar. Do not think you're going to pick up your newly regeared jeep and jump on the interstate cruising 70mph+ for hours on the way home. Those first few heat cycles on the gears are the most important. You need to factor in shorter trips at reasonable speeds, then stop and let everything cool down. That is a real pain in the a$$ if you're further than 20 or so miles from home. Factor that additional time in to the equation so you don't jack up your new gears.
Old 01-31-2018, 11:55 AM
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Couple of new things to add.
1) Anybody looking to re-gear should look no further than our Vendor List here on the board. There is a post that was started about 5 years ago, the prices are still about the same, and the Gear Sets are a top quality name brand. They are currently offering the Gear Set w/ Master rebuild kits, for less than a lot of places are getting for gears alone. This is based on recent research that I've done. Sidenote: the post does not quote the name brand, reason should be obvious, click the link to show the brand and get your quote. I won't post the info out of respect to the vendor. I assume he has legal reason to not advertise his price & brand but not sure.

2) I went to 3 shops today checking prices and policies for the install of my Gear Sets. Turns out they were all very similar with one HUGE exception.
One of the shops told me that I COULD NOT put 5:13s in my stock carriers, AND I would also need after market diff. covers for clearance. His price for the job was 4 $large$ thousand dollar bills.
It got me worried that i over looked the fact, and assumed that the 5:13s would be a direct fit into the stock axles.
Was this guy trying to screw me, or did I in fact overlook some important details?

Worried in Texas, please send good news :{0
Old 01-31-2018, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Pmedic920
2) I went to 3 shops today checking prices and policies for the install of my Gear Sets. Turns out they were all very similar with one HUGE exception. One of the shops told me that I COULD NOT put 5:13s in my stock carriers, AND I would also need after market diff. covers for clearance. His price for the job was 4 $large$ thousand dollar bills.
It got me worried that i over looked the fact, and assumed that the 5:13s would be a direct fit into the stock axles.
Was this guy trying to screw me, or did I in fact overlook some important details?

Worried in Texas, please send good news :{0
They're full of $hit. A sport with 3.21 gearing would require a new carrier. 5.13s would work just fine with your rubi e-locker as the carrier. That said, see my post in your new member thread. I really don't think you're gonna want 5.13s if you don't see going over 35s, have the 3.6L, and the rubi TC to boot. Oh, and $4k is redonk. Here in Texas you should be looking at $1250 +/-, and that includes parts and labor. No more than $1500 max.
Old 02-01-2018, 01:17 PM
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Yeah, I've got a JKUR 3.6 auto with 35s running 4.88s in preparation for 37s. It's geared plenty low. Great around town, but it runs about 3K at 70 mph on the highway depending on the wind. Get a decent head wind and I'm running 3K at 65. I moved up from 4.10s and never really had and issues. 4.55s would probably be ideal for 35s.


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