Vacuum Pump ?
The reason the 3.6L engine has to have a vacuum pump is the engine doesn't make enough manifold vacuum under some conditions, due to the variable valve train. The pump is added to ensure there is always enough vacuum to operate the various systems that require it, especially the brakes.
To operate in optimal fuel consumption, system runs with significantly less vacuum than conventional motors.
And you will be glad you have a pump when you drive at high altitude area(especially for expedition on those great trails) that pump will give you enough boost : )
One thing is not clear for me - is this pump controlled by engine controller or brake controller.
If this is Engine Controller(Believe this is GPEC2 controller), than OEM have to have proper diagnostic system(electric and rational) to be certified since this is Electric load that can cause torque variation - either emissions related or ETC torque safety related.
If this pump is tied into brake controller, now it's safety component and believe there will be diagnostic in the controller to be qualified.
Both case should illuminate if there is any electrical failure but still not sure if it will warn user early enough of rational problem - not functioning as the way it should.
So , if I am going to run through some harsh terrain where the service cannot be done than will try to function test the pump.
And this is my thought - hope this is worthy to try.
Warning - this is what I will try if in the situation but cannot take responsibility - you are doing this on your own risk.
(1) Perform set up before running engine.
(1-1) Setup #1 : Relief vacuum - you want to start with no vacuum on brake booster.
Find the spot to disconnect vacuum line from intake manifold. And unplug.
Check valve should be also out of picture for this test.
(1-2) Set up #2 : Plug each side of brake vacuum line between engine manifold and brake line
This way, only way to get vacuum is from pump.
Make sure to plug engine side too since it will set ETC Code high air flow failure due to busted manifold.
(2) Run your engine.
(3) Go to the pump and see if you can hear and feel the pump operation.
(4) Also wait to see if the pump stops since pump should stop if booster got enough vacuum (hope it does not cause warning light on your dash)
!!!Warning : Try this on your own risk.
This is again just my thought to validate the functioning pump but high risk of forgetting to put back vacuum line into manifold.
Pump is not big enough to take full operation - believe me, I worked on heavy SUV Hybrid development before and the vacuum pump size are huge not like small assistant pump for all those pentastar engines.
If this is Engine Controller(Believe this is GPEC2 controller), than OEM have to have proper diagnostic system(electric and rational) to be certified since this is Electric load that can cause torque variation - either emissions related or ETC torque safety related.
If this pump is tied into brake controller, now it's safety component and believe there will be diagnostic in the controller to be qualified.
Both case should illuminate if there is any electrical failure but still not sure if it will warn user early enough of rational problem - not functioning as the way it should.
So , if I am going to run through some harsh terrain where the service cannot be done than will try to function test the pump.
And this is my thought - hope this is worthy to try.
Warning - this is what I will try if in the situation but cannot take responsibility - you are doing this on your own risk.
(1) Perform set up before running engine.
(1-1) Setup #1 : Relief vacuum - you want to start with no vacuum on brake booster.
Find the spot to disconnect vacuum line from intake manifold. And unplug.
Check valve should be also out of picture for this test.
(1-2) Set up #2 : Plug each side of brake vacuum line between engine manifold and brake line
This way, only way to get vacuum is from pump.
Make sure to plug engine side too since it will set ETC Code high air flow failure due to busted manifold.
(2) Run your engine.
(3) Go to the pump and see if you can hear and feel the pump operation.
(4) Also wait to see if the pump stops since pump should stop if booster got enough vacuum (hope it does not cause warning light on your dash)
!!!Warning : Try this on your own risk.
This is again just my thought to validate the functioning pump but high risk of forgetting to put back vacuum line into manifold.
Pump is not big enough to take full operation - believe me, I worked on heavy SUV Hybrid development before and the vacuum pump size are huge not like small assistant pump for all those pentastar engines.
Last edited by keahyukchang; Oct 27, 2012 at 05:25 PM.
So it has been sometime since I relocated the pump and still wasn't 100% sure it was functioning. Finally, yesterday temps dropped to 12 degrees. I turned the Jeep on and there it was, vacuum pump noise. As others stated they would hear it on a cold start, but I didn't hear it until the temps were low. It did the same this morning at about 13 degrees. The noise is brief but you can definitely tell that something sounds different. Open the hood and you can tell its coming from the pump. Now I know it works! or at least makes a noise 
Thanks

Thanks
I relocated mine without even unplugging a single line. The LOD relocation bracket that came with my bumper was quick and easy to install. I got to give those guys credit for making it so easy to do.
Great! Any picks? Should have went that route, not sure if i would of had space for winch though.


