What has a better chance of working to fix my death wobble??? HELP
 

What has a better chance of working to fix my death wobble??? HELP

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OK so I have a 08 unlimited 4x4. all stock except for a 2.5 TF spacers, bumpstops, and shock extensions. I have about 19,000 on the jeep. Had the death wobble several months back very bad took it to jeep and they said they fixed it with a new SS, i knew better but thought I would humor them, it did make it a little better until the wife and I hit the expansion joint where the road and a bridge meet at approx 75 mph. I could have swore that the front end unbolted it self and walked off. never had it shake so violently. HOLY SH*T. the interior of the jeep is now bruwn expecially around my wifes seat. this was by far the worst episode so far. We slowed and pulled to the side of the road and drove off as normal with no prob.

Gonna drop it off at the dealership tommorrow and let them tell me its the SS again or that they can not reproduse the prob. The tires were ballanced not to long ago, rotated at the same time. All the bolts are torked to spec. Yes I checked them.

If they dont find any thing or fix it, which i doubt they will, ill be looking at getting at getting an adjustable front trac bar and/or a trac bar lowering bracket.

My question is: do I need both or if I get a adjustable trac bar do I even need a trac bar lowering bracket. or I I need both which one should I get first?

I have to do something about the wobble, its taking the fun out of driving when I have to worry about every bump in the road.

I did front adjustable track bar and front lower control arms. I think it was the control arms that worked for me. Everyones death wobble experience or fix seems to be different but the end result of having it is the same....the love of driving it becomes a chore at every bump. Good luck.

Lower control arms with a 2.5 lift. nevre thought I would have to go that far

Trac bar must ne tightened at 125-130 ft/lbs

You don't need trac bar brackets with a 2.5" BB lift

An adj. trac bar will not fix the death wobble

The caster is very important (should be around 4.6 degre) If you have less than 4.6 degree, you will need adj. front lower arms

as mentioned, you do not need an adjustable track bar and/or drop bracket to fix your DW. what you need to do is:

1. make sure that your track bar mounting bolts are tightend to 125-130 ft. lbs. of torque.

2. if they are tightend to the correct torque setting and still have DW, you need to make sure that the bushings are in good shape and that the holes on the mounts are not wollowed out.

3. if #1 and #2 check out, you need to carefully examine your track bar mounts both on the axle and the frame to see if there are any cracks, tears or other signs of failure occuring. it is NOT UNCOMMON to see a failing mount on a JK even if it has NO modifications on it.

4. if you just have a 2.5" BB, i highly doubt that you are have caster issues. but, all things being equal, more positive caster will help to prevent/eliminate DW and the best way to get more is with adjustable control arms.

I thought I read on here that if the steering geometry is off That can contribute to a DW. and that a trac bar bracket or adjustable trac bar would help that. If I cant get this worked out, I guess the last step would pull the lift off and return to stock

yes, if you do not have enough positive caster, you can get DW but at 2.5" of lift, this should not be an issue. trust me, you can and people DO get DW stock - as in, NO lift. 99% of all DW cases are a track bar related problem. if it's loose, can move around or one or more of the mounts can flex/shift, this will allow DW to occur. trust me on this one, you need to focus on your track bar and it's mounts.

Damn WOL. just being nosey but do you sleep ?lol? It seems as though you are always on top of the newest posts. K ill focus on the trac bar, Im gonna take it to the folks at the dealership with the extra chromosomes , and ill report back. hopefully they will find that the bushings are wallered out and replace the trac bar and prob solved.

:rotflmao1: i do sleep but probably not as much as i should :blush:

as far as your dealership goes, you'll forgive me but i have little to no faith in them fixing a problem like this. if i could, i would recommend that you go down to your local parts store, buy a 24" long 1/2" drive torque wrench that can go up to 150 ft. lbs. of torque. this should only cost about $20 and while it won't be the most accurate torque wrench in the world, it will do the job and honestly, +/- 5 ft. lbs. will not hurt a thing when you're working on 125-130 ft. lbs. also, you will need to by a 21mm 1/2" drive socket, a 21mm wrench and 6" drive extension. with these in hand, you can effective check your track bar bolts in your own driveway. :yup:

Ok say I do that and everything is torqued to spec. how can I tell if the trac bar bushings are wallered out since i understand that it only takes like a fraction of an inch of movement to cause the DW. is there a sure fire , fool proof way to check the bushings and mounts, knowing i would have to take it off to check it.:dontknow2: