GeorgesCommando

Hey all, don't really post much here on the Forum but read the crap out of reviews and peoples opinions.

I currently have a 2013 JKU Sport (my first Jeep) that is my daily driver and I drive from Colorado Springs to Omaha (600ish miles each way) 2-5 times a year to visit family. I only add that because I think it should be relevant for my ride quality as this isnt going to be a off-road purpose built rig. I have 32" tires on it now, plan on going to 33" tires with a slight possibility of 35" tires. I have a custom built front stubby and rear w/ tire carrier steel bumpers, I never weighed them but I am pretty sure they are probably in line with most steel bumpers. I don't have a winch yet but plan on getting one down the road.

I try to get out on the trails as much as possible, which is never enough (once/twice a month). I don't want to do any 10/10 rated trails, I like to stay at 6/10 and under as I am still quite new to wheeling, still learning proper lines, but enjoy the crap out of it.

So this thread is asking for your experience with the products that I am thinking of getting. If I am forgetting anything please let me know. Like I said, I am completely new to this.

I don't have the money to just throw $2k into a lift all at once so I will be buying parts monthly. I will be stationed in Korea in October so would I be able to buy certain parts and install them as I buy before I leave or should I wait till I get everything I need.

What order should I order my parts.

I was going to go straight out of the box with the Metal Cloak 2.5" Dual Rate ARB edition lift. But I think I have decided against doing that completely.

Coils - I am going with either the 1.5" or 2.5" Rock Krawler triple rate springs. I don't want to raise the jeep just for the sake of raising it to make it look nicer. I want a little extra belly clearance. How much lift did you get with your 1.5" or 2.5"? I was assuming 2 inches on the 1.5" and 3.25" on the 2.5" coils. Am I in the right ball park for these coils? Can I run my OE shocks with these coils until I buy the shocks I want?

Shocks - I havent decided yet on either the Bilstein 5160's (can I use the 5165's?) or the Fox 2.0 remote reservoir. Are there other shocks I should consider?

Control Arms - From everything I have read I am completely sold on the Metal Cloak CAs. My question here is what order should I get these in? I don't have $1200 to get all 4 sets at once. Honestly I don't want to hear about any other CAs as this will end up like all the other threads where 2 or 3 people argue about the MC's or the Currie JJ's...etc.

Sway Bar Disco's - Metal Cloak sway bar discos 12.25". Can I add these first so I can disconnect on my next trail run or do I need to wait till I get a little extra lift.

Track bar - Do I need to upgrade this with only a 1.5/2.5" lift? If so I will be going with the Metal Cloak front and rear Solid Chromoly track bars.

Bump Stops - not a clue where I should go here. Are all bump stop pads that much different? Are the air bump stops really worth what they sell for?

Limiting Straps - I have read that I should have them, I have read that they are unnecessary. Would love some thoughts here.

Do I need to look at drive shafts?

Do I need to gusset my axels with 33's or 35's?

I am planning on re-gearing as well. Was thinking 4.88 gears for the 33's with the possibility of going to 35's. Will those gears be fine? What brands should I stay away from and why?

Steering Stabilizer - do I need this?

Am I missing anything?


I appreciate your time in looking thru this long(ish) post and appreciate any feedback you have to offer.

ROGUE JK X

I have 2 different set ups that I currently have on my jeeps. My '07 2dr X has a 3.5" Rough Country lift kit on it with 35's. It came with coils and shocks. The shocks aren't the best but its not too bad. It came with control arms, pretty much every kit I've seen does. the lift kit was about $500 total. did the installation myself with the help of a couple buddies. My stock 4.10 gears turn my wheels just fine. I've had some friends go 4.88 on their 35's and say it was too much. The magic number I keep seeing for 35's is 4.56 but if you have the 4.10 already its not really work the extra money. I haven't done anything to my axles and they seem to be just fine.

My other jeep is a '09 JKUR and the only 3 things that I have done to it is a 2.5" spacer, 34" tires and Bilstein 5100 shocks. Its more my wife's daily driver but she likes to mess around in the dirt sometimes. I am super jealous of her shocks though. they are great. I've heard that remote reservoir shocks are more for racing but I don't really know too much about that stuff.

Steering stabilizers are meh to me. the stock one does just fine however I haven't experienced an aftermarket one.

I have the stock track bar on the JKUR but on the X the kit had a drop bracket for the stock to go into. Ill probably replace that sometime bot not too worried about it.

Bump stops will limit your flex so you don't rub when at full flex.

A rule of thumb for drive shafts is anything over 2.5" of lift, get a new front at least IF you have an automatic because the bulky stock one rubs on the transmission pan when flexing. I got a 1310 on my 2dr and its working great. I have seen people break 1310 drive shafts but they all had 37" tires or bigger.

sway bar discos are great. I would wait to put on the larger links until you get the lift just because your sway bar will have more play in it and its kinda scary highway driving with little to no sway bar in the front. Took the rear off on the JKUR and its scary one i hit like 70

If you're trying to go the cheaper route I would definitely recommend a rough country kit and just dont get their shocks and get some Bilsteins or something. And they do have a military discount you just have to call and order over the phone.

Also for 3.5" Ive read the drop brackets for the control arms make the street driving way better.

ROGUE JK X

3.5in Suspension Lift Kit for 07-14 Jeep JK Wrangler Unlimited [609S] | Rough Country Suspension Systems is the JKU verson of my 3.5" kit

Front CV Drive Shaft for 07-11 Jeep JK Wrangler [5096.1] | Rough Country Suspension Systems is the exact drive shaft i got

nthinuf

Control arms - start with just the front lowers.
(4door with a 1.5-2.5" lift, a single set of front arms will be fine for caster, and don't worry about the rear arms until you have nothing else to drop money on)

Trackbar - needed, no. Wanted, probably.

Bumpstops - will depend on the coil/shock combination you go with. You could always do the hockey puck thing, or spend a bit for an adjustable setup.

Stock shocks - Yes, you can run the stock shocks for a while. Just won't have any downtravel. (actually, I have a set of the yellow ome's from their medium duty coil kit you are welcome to use until you decide on shocks. Assuming your location is correct, anyway)

Driveshafts - rear will be fine. Front should be ok. (depending on actual lift height/shock length/disconnecting/usage/etc.)

Gussets - very popular term for them is 'cheap insurance'.

Sleeves and/or truss - depends on needs/usage/budget.

Gears - do some more research. With a 3.6 and 33's, 4.88's are probably too much. Stock gearing may be fine. Brands don't really matter, they all still seem to be coming out of the same asian factory. Base the decision on price and warranty.

Steering stabilizer - a relo kit would be a good call, but you can run the stocker til it implodes.

Swaybar links - don't know about that, see if you can get measurements on how short they go? (shouldn't be a problem for street driving? as long as they are disconnected when offroad?)

Limit straps - how long are you going on the shocks?

Brakelines or brackets - depends on lift height and shock length.

Traction - you know you want it!! If you don't have the budget for selectables, a pair of truetracs is relatively affodable.



Another option to gears/lockers/gussets/sleeves/truss/etc/etc, would be a front, or a set of, rubicon axles. Some people get lucky and find them on the cheap.

TheDirtman

Weight of your jeep will determine how much lift you get from a set of coils. Height of the lift will determine what you need in regaurds of components. A reservoir shock will totally unessasary for what you are describing. Under 2" you don't need adjsutable control arms, track bars, and all the other stuff. Basiclly just coils, shocks, sway bar links, and 2" of bump stop will get you there.

I am not sure why you would not just buy the 2.5" metal cloak lift if looking for that 3" lift size and am confused why you would choose the RK tripple rate coil when it is shorter then the metal cloaks that will allow for more total articulation.

4.88 seems like a bit much if you are going to be doing a lot of highway driving unless you plan on 37's in the future.

GeorgesCommando

I'm not looking to get 3" out of the lift. Want to keep the COG as low as possible, why I have entertained the 1.5" RK coils. The lift is more for belly clearance. Reason I was looking at the RK coils is because I have read nothing but great things about them. Read good things about the MC coils as well, but they don't offer anything lower than the 2.5". Also, I read that people were getting close to 3.5" on the MC 2.5". Like I said everything I "know" is from what I have read. So I "know" that I would get more articulation/droop from the MC springs, but is it worth having more articulation if the RK coils ride better? I am hoping when I get up to the Northridge event up in Longmont, CO this weekend I can find someone with both coils that wouldn't mind giving me a ride around so I can feel how they react to road conditions since that is where most of my driving will be.

Which shocks would you recommend if not the reservoir 5160's and fox 2.0's.

TheDirtman

Looks to me from your post that 2.5" was an option.

If you looking for clearance run 35" tires with some flat fenders and don't even worry about a lift. It will gain you 2" of total clearance and the 35" tires will perform better off road then a 33" depending on what tire you choose.

I would not run either the 5160's or fox 2.0 shocks and with no lift you should not need shocks.

D3ADLY

I might add a bit more later but for a quick response, if you're looking for a nice riding jeep X the Fox 2.0 shocks off your list. They're known for a harsh/firmer ride.

If you want nice riding shocks two big names that are popular are the Old Man Emu Nitro charger sport shocks. The same ones that come in that MetalCloak kit you were looking at and them Rancho 9000s as they're fully adjustable.

As far as buying adjustable control arm order most usually get the lower first. However, I seen a post from Jeepineer (MetalCloak engineer) once that stated you should get the front upper on the MetalCloak and stated why. Can't remember all the details. Perhaps dropping him a mail if he's on this forum he'd probably be glad to lead you in the right direction. All the people at MetalCloak are extremely helpful and customer service is top notch.

Bump stops, I'd just get the MetalCloak adjustable set and be done with buying anymore.

Limiting straps, I'd imagine it has to do with your setup. Some need them, some don't. I run a full MetalCloak game changer kit and don't need them.

Driveshaft... You won't have to worry about them right away off a smaller lift.

Gussetting your axles are a very good idea. It's just cheap insurance as to not bend your C´s.

4.88 gears will be fine for 33 or 35´s. Should give you some nice torque although may be overkill. I see many run 4.56 with 35's and are happy with that.

Your stock steering stabilizer is fine. Run it until you break it one day, then replace.

MetalCloak Track bars, will allow you to adjust your axles centered under your jeep. They'll raise your roll center and improve handling overall. Not a bad idea by any means. Might not be totally necessary though if you're trying to save on money.

Sway bar discos, might be a bit to tall for the stock lift. You might be able to run them but your sway bar won't be level. I've heard it's best to run them level as possible. I'd wait for someone with more knowledge to chime in on this.


Sent from my Go Go Gadget handheld device.

rsbmg

If you are considering 35's "down the road" what is keeping you from getting them now? My opinion is you already have 32's, 33's is a waste. You will accomplish what you want with the 35's and it will cost you far less in the long run. Spend a bit more for the 35's. If you don't like flat fenders buy a $140 budget boost. The suspension will perform just like stock and you will get the belly height you are after.

Take the savings from not getting the suspension components and do your gussets and get some better shocks and you will be far and away better overall all.

As for gears, I have 4.88's in mine in preparation for 37's. Do not put 4.88's in your jeep if you decide on 33's. If you go 35's and don't mind spinning a little higher rpm thats fine but I think you will appreciate 4.56's far more.

Research on the forums is a double edged sword. The more you read the more you will talk yourself into something you really don't need. Your jeep on 35's with a budget boost will will go everywhere the most highly modified king of the hammers rigs will go except the most extreme trails you probably will never even encounter, it just wont do it as fast. Save your money it will become obvious when you need to spend it.

Sahara_Maverick

After reading quite a bit everywhere this is what I am leaning to for my Jeep.

It's my DD and my offroad is oriented towards overlanding, not rock crawling. I also want to keep most, if not all, the stock's suspension performance on the road (e.g. cornering, stability, comfort, etc). I have a 32in tire set for most use and a 35in set for offroad. The 2in budget boost seems to be the cost-effective solution.


Just my 2c.