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Yes, that is what I was looking for. The good news is there are no cam bolts installed. The bad news is it appears you have no form of caster correction. If those springs are 3.5", you are likely experiencing some pretty poor steering/control. Don't accept how it is as it being "just how a lifted jeep drives" Caster is a big deal. You might want to research control arm brackets a bit. Just will re-locate where your front control arms mount on the frame side, reducing the angles at which your arms run, and increasing caster in the process. Caster from the factory is 4.2*, and I'd guess with that set up you are probably down around 2.8* ballpark. Anyhow, something to think about. Control arm brackets run anywhere from $90 to $170 depending on the model (Rubicon Express, AEV, Rancho, Metalcloak, .....). Also, at that height, you're likely to experience a front drive shaft failure along the way. What happens is the boot protecting the CV joint by the transfer case will rip and spew all the grease out. You'll see the signs of this on the underside of the tub before you hear any signs from the joint itself. It will dry out and start creaking/clicking.
One final comment. It's fun to have a jeep, and they look cool, but once modified, these things do take some maintenance and attention. You'll need to grease a few things and occasionally inspect components. Hopefully you're a bit handy and interested in becoming familiar with your components. A lot of times it's useful to start reading through the "stickies" at the top of the sub-forums. Even though you're "modified" there's a lot of good content in the "stock" sub-forum as well.
Run across things you don't understand, just ask questions. Plenty of people who are willing to help along the way. Best of luck to you......get out and enjoy it
We're getting closer....LOL. From those pictures, you have a factory front drive shaft. From previous picture I thought maybe a chance it wasn't, but it is. On the rear axle, your diff breather hose is not connected. You can see the nipple sitting there just to the passenger side of the pumpkin. That hose dangling down should be connected there.
On the front axle, either from the front of the jeep or middle looking forward, try to snap a picture of this mount -
It appears you do not have control arm brackets from the last round of pictures. If you don't have cam bolts installed in this mount, then you have no caster correction. Even if you have cam bolts here, I'd suggest scrapping them and getting brackets, but let's see first if they are there or not. Also, I see you have Trail Grappler tires (from the lugs). Not certain what your Virginia winters are like. Those are good tires, but not known to be great in the snow. Just something to keep in mind.
I am running this same lift and the cam bolts go on the rear axle end of the upper control arms not the lower as indicated.. and they are a pain in the ARSE to install. I paid someone to do the fronts when I got them in. The 3.5" sport lift I ordered did not come with front cam bolts.
Yes, that is what I was looking for. The good news is there are no cam bolts installed. The bad news is it appears you have no form of caster correction. If those springs are 3.5", you are likely experiencing some pretty poor steering/control. Don't accept how it is as it being "just how a lifted jeep drives" Caster is a big deal. You might want to research control arm brackets a bit. Just will re-locate where your front control arms mount on the frame side, reducing the angles at which your arms run, and increasing caster in the process. Caster from the factory is 4.2*, and I'd guess with that set up you are probably down around 2.8*
ballpark. Anyhow, something to think about. Control arm brackets run anywhere from $90 to $170 depending on the model (Rubicon Express, AEV, Rancho, Metalcloak, .....). Also, at that height, you're likely to experience a front drive shaft failure along the way. What happens is the boot protecting the CV joint by the transfer case will rip and spew all the grease out. You'll see the signs of this on the underside of the tub before you hear any signs from the joint itself. It will dry out and start creaking/clicking.
One final comment. It's fun to have a jeep, and they look cool, but once modified, these things do take some maintenance and attention. You'll need to grease a few things and occasionally inspect components. Hopefully you're a bit handy and interested in becoming familiar with your components. A lot of times it's useful to start reading through the "stickies" at the top of the sub-forums. Even though you're "modified" there's a lot of good content in the "stock" sub-forum as well.
Run across things you don't understand, just ask questions. Plenty of people who are willing to help along the way. Best of luck to you......get out and enjoy it
thank you so much for all your help I will def look into the control arm brackets. I’m somewhat mechanical inclined far from great tho. Would it be anything to be welded? That would def be my problem.
I am running this same lift and the cam bolts go on the rear axle end of the upper control arms not the lower as indicated.. and they are a pain in the ARSE to install. I paid someone to do the fronts when I got them in. The 3.5" sport lift I ordered did not come with front cam bolts.
thank you very much for the input as well. So when you say difficult is it access to it or the overall job it’s self?
thank you so much for all your help I will def look into the control arm brackets. I’m somewhat mechanical inclined far from great tho. Would it be anything to be welded? That would def be my problem.
Nah, most this stuff is simply bolt on. If you don't have one, a decent 50-250 ft lbs torque wrench is one of the most useful tools for a JK owner.
Honestly, the rear is fine. The rear DS has CV joints on both ends, and is very forgiving in regards to angles. There's not much concern in adjusting that pinion angle in back.
thank you very much for the input as well. So when you say difficult is it access to it or the overall job it’s self?
Cam Bolts in a of themselves are simple... slide them in, adjust and tighten. the issue is there are two tabs that need to be "knocked out" according to the installation instructions. There SHOULD be perforations in the tab to allow the colts bolt to rotate front to back allowing adjustments in camber. Needless to say, mine was not that simple. Regardless of angle or back support I COULD NOT knock the tabs out. I had to grind the tabs out with a pneumatic burr. what a pain in the @$$. Almost two hours for the four tabs. Looks good now though.
04-23-2019, 04:36 AM
