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Another UPOL Raptor Bedliner JK

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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 11:29 AM
  #31  
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From: Sheridan, Indiana, United States
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How many cans did it take to do the tub, roll bars, rear gate, and door sills? Also how many coats did you put on?
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 07:26 PM
  #32  
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From: Indy
Smile I'm masking mine now and have a few questions

I found that a heat gun / putty knife is a good combo to remove the goop like in the foot wells.

Originally Posted by Biggy
Regarding overspray, any that gets on your garage floor assuming its concrete will sweep up with a broom


QUESTIONS


1) Did you remove the gate stop before spraying. Basically the black arm that holds it has 2 bolts there. I'm sort of scared to disconnect it without knowing I can put the bolts back in. I'm probably paranoid but I'm scared a nut is going to fall and they will never go back in. I might just mask it.

2)I see that you use the rear seat. Did you spray over the rear seat mount points or mask? If you did spray where you able to get the seat in well afterward.
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Old Jun 28, 2012 | 08:57 PM
  #33  
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From: Snoqualmie, WA
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Crushed up dry ice and a light tap with a hammer will take out the sound deadening material with ease.
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 03:53 AM
  #34  
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From: Triad, NC
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Originally Posted by Granger
How many cans did it take to do the tub, roll bars, rear gate, and door sills? Also how many coats did you put on?
When you buy the UPOL kit, it comes with 4 750mL bottles of liner and a liter of hardener (plus the spray gun); you add 1/4 (250mL) of hardener to each bottle of liner, shake the piss out of it for 2-3 minutes, LOL! and spray away! I was able to get two good solid coats of everything. Just be patient. and don't overspray on the first coat, or it tends to gloss up. I also bought a can of Rustoleum spray in bed liner for touch-up of some of my oversprayed spots and the harder to reach areas. It sprays very glossy (Rustoleum) but dries up flat and matches pretty good. The foot wells are a PITA! since its dark down under there and pedals get in the way, plus the liner drips from the vent hole on the gun so try to use up some of the bottle before the need to tip the gun/bottle sideways, etc.
Good luck! It's pretty easy once you get going.

I would suggest you start with the roll bars and sound bar first if you choose to spray them, so you can stand in the Jeep to do so; then spray the tailgate; then move up to front to hit the footwells since your bottle will be half empty by then and you can tip it if needed, then do the tub, and finally the door sills last so your compressor hose doesnt hit it. (Doh!!) You can apply a good first coat with first two bottles to everything and get good results. Let it cure for 30-45 minutes and hit everything again. You can also buy individual bottles of liner (750ml) and small can of hardener if you think you want it heavier or need more coverage.

I made the mistake of overspraying with the first two bottles so the last two bottles went quick trying to even it all out

Last edited by vulcan classic; Jun 29, 2012 at 04:14 AM.
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 04:00 AM
  #35  
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From: Triad, NC
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Originally Posted by Rooster76
I found that a heat gun / putty knife is a good combo to remove the goop like in the foot wells.




QUESTIONS


1) Did you remove the gate stop before spraying. Basically the black arm that holds it has 2 bolts there. I'm sort of scared to disconnect it without knowing I can put the bolts back in. I'm probably paranoid but I'm scared a nut is going to fall and they will never go back in. I might just mask it.

2)I see that you use the rear seat. Did you spray over the rear seat mount points or mask? If you did spray where you able to get the seat in well afterward.
Pull those plastic trim pieces off the inside of the gate. Remove the gate stop two bolts from the gate while it is in the nearly closed position to take the tension off it. Slide the stop back into the fender and mask the mounting plate off. When your all finished revers the process, no big deal.

I sprayed the seat mounting points and seat release bar/catch works fine!
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 05:26 AM
  #36  
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From: Bryant, Arkansas
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I think Vulcan classic needs to take a trip to Arkansas and get paid to do it for me. Haha!! Im not lazy, just not good at stuff like this!
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Old Jun 29, 2012 | 08:28 AM
  #37  
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From: Indy
Thumbs up Thanks for answering so quick, your really helping me out

Originally Posted by vulcan classic
Pull those plastic trim pieces off the inside of the gate. Remove the gate stop two bolts from the gate while it is in the nearly closed position to take the tension off it. Slide the stop back into the fender and mask the mounting plate off. When your all finished revers the process, no big deal.

I sprayed the seat mounting points and seat release bar/catch works fine!
I'm not sure why I was freaking out about taking the bolts out, thanks for reassuring me. I'm sure masking wouldn't have turned out as well.

It's going to look way better with the seat mounts sprayed vs masked too.
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