Installing Alloy USA (Factory Ten) CM front axles and CTM U-joints

http://northridge4x4.com/proddetail....USA-JK-44FRONT
http://northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=CTM-DANA44


Tools:
Jack
Jack stands
21mm socket
35mm socket
13mm 12pt 3/8” drive socket
3/8” drive breaker bar
5mm Hex key
Small pry bar
Big Hammer and a couple of sacrificial sockets (used to install U-joints) or a shop vise
C-clip pliers
Grease
Grease Gun

Procedure:

1. Jack up tire and place a jack stand so that the oil doesn’t flow out of the axle tube when you remove the axle shaft. Remove front wheel.
   
2. Remove (2) 21mm bolts from the brake caliper and tie the caliper out of the way. I used wire ties for this.
3. Remove the brake rotor and set aside.
4. Remove 35mm axle nut.
5. Remove (3) 13mm 12pt. bolts from back of hub. I used a 3/8” drive and a breaker bar as there wasn’t enough room for a ½” drive.
6. Remove 5mm Hex bolt that holds ABS sensor.
   
7. Gently remove the hub from the axle stub, as it comes loose remove ABS sensor and move it out of the way.
   
   
8. Remove dust shield and slide out old axle.
9. Install U-joints in new axles. This took the most time and was the most work, but it is just labor. CTM’s instructions are very good. I used a big hammer and a couple sacrificial sockets to install the U-joints, but a shop vise used as a press would be much easier. I wanted to know that I could do this in the field if I needed to.
   
10. Remove plastic dust caps off of old axle and re-install on the new axles. I used a small pry bar for this. If I was doing this again I’d just buy a new set from the dealer. They can’t be very expensive and that way you have a complete spare axle for install if needed.
    
11. While holding the new axle in the center of the axle tube, gently slide it in until you feel the inner oil seal??/bearings. Slowly turn while pushing until the splines line-up and you can continue pushing the axle in.
12. Re-install dust shield, hub and ABS sensor.
13. Re-torque axle nut so that wheel turns easily and doesn’t wobble side to side or top to bottom. There’s probably a technical way to describe this, but I don’t know it.
14. Re-install brake rotor and front wheel
15. Check and refill Differential as needed.

 

This is a great thread and I just added to my subscribed ones! This one is on my list! Thanks!!

 

KenB1010,
Yes, the axle seal on the front axle is in the tube toward the "punkin".
This may have been what you remember from your conversation with David.

Step 12: three hub bolts 75 ft/lbs.
Step 13: big axle nut 100 ft/lbs.

That hub assembly looks like the one on the XJ. I wonder if it is the same. If so, I have the mandrel kit to rebuild those.

 

Great writeup Ken. This will help me a lot!

I just received my AlloyUSA front shafts from David at Northridge today. His kit comes with Spicer 5-760X U-joints. These U-joints do not come with any instructions for the install, and I have never done a U-joint install before. Each U-joint came with a set of 4 C-clips, but David included a set of 8 full circle clips with his kit.

My questions (and there are probably stupid ones, but I am new at this)...I assume that I use the full circle clips instead of the Spicer supplied C-clips on the U-joints? Also, the clips go into the grooves on the U-joint caps on the inside of the axle shaft ears, correct?

Also, I found some generic U-joint install instructions on the web. They say to;

- remove the caps with the needle bearings
- grease up the inside of the caps and place the needle bearings in them (if this has not already been done)
- put the U-joint into the shaft ears, then gently drive on the caps from the outside of the ears over the U-joint arm, first one side, then the other.
- once the cap is on, put on the clip into the groove on the cap just outboard of the rubber seal

Do I have that right?

TIA,
Paul

 

Hm... mine for the 30 came with the joint pre-assembled.

I forgot how expensive those CTM joints are... Holy nuts batman!

 

I got the answers to my own questions by calling Dave at Northridge...yes, the full circle clips replace the Spicer C clips, and they do fit into the grooves on the caps inside of the shaft ears. The spicer U-joints come pre-greased with the needle bearings installed, so that you just have to slip off the caps and put them back together as you assemble the joint inside of the shaft ears.

I do have one more question...In your step 10 you show the dust caps on the axle shafts and mention having to move them to the new shafts. You suggested purchasing new ones at the dealer prior to install so that you can leave the old ones on the stock shafts. I decided that this was a good suggestion and went to the dealer to purchase the dust caps. The dealer parts counter could not figure out what this part was called or the part number. We looked at the diagram in their system, and it only showed the components of the differential inner seal on the shaft. Does anyone know the part number or "official" name of these parts so that I can order them?

Thanks,
Paul

 

Well, still no luck finding the part number for those dust caps. Here is the parts catalog drawing of the front axleshafts that the parts counter guy and I were looking at:



I believe that parts 4,5, and 6 are the seal at the differential that the shaft slides into. The drawing does not show any part like the dust caps. This is why the parts guy said he could not help me.

Any ideas? If not, I guess I will just transfer the stock one to the new shaft and call it a day.

 

I would say number 4 would be what you need. I don't believe there 3 parts to the seal.

 

yeah, we call a "dust cap" a slinger here at work too, so it must be a universal engineering term. I think #4 is what you're looking for.

 

Thanks guys. I will give it a try.

Planning on the install this Sunday. Should be fun!

Paul