RES Stereo Upgrade
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
RES Stereo Upgrade
I am coming up with so many mixed results in my searches. I have a baseline RES in an 08 JK. No uConnect, no hands free, no sat, no wheel controls. Am replacing with a pioneer unit and none of my local shops have a wiring harness adapter. Do I need a 60 dollar CANBUS interface crap or can I just cut my current harness and splice?
Please send help
Please send help
#2
Super Moderator
I wish I had kept that harness I had, but it was the basic harness from Crutchfield. Put in your info and they'll let you know what pieces you need to make it work.
#3
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
https://www.amazon.com/Install-ICCR6BN-Chrysler-Complete-Installation/dp/B01N0B1376/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wrangler+radio+harness&qid=1559441013&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Wife ordered this as a knee-jerk. Should work right?
Wife ordered this as a knee-jerk. Should work right?
#4
Super Moderator
That is what my "harness" looked like. There's a second piece that, I think, kept the feature where the radio plays for a short while after you turn it off- but I could be wrong on that function.
#6
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Well eff. installed the new head unit with that adapter, it immediately popped a cap and started smoking. There went that...
What is the harness under the dash plate btw? it's empty/unused
What is the harness under the dash plate btw? it's empty/unused
Last edited by BoredKender; 06-03-2019 at 05:22 PM.
#7
You can check out my build thread for some in depth resources about the stereo situation for a base line system - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-g...ubicon-349851/
You're talking about a completely base system (I DID have steering wheel controls but no bluetooth or nav) so that might be slightly different, however, if you can verify the factory amp just above the driver kick panel I'd imagine you'd need the can-bus harness due to the connection type between the radio and amp. The actual head unit does NOTHING to control sound, it's all handled at the amp, the head unit just acts as a controller so to speak.
You're talking about a completely base system (I DID have steering wheel controls but no bluetooth or nav) so that might be slightly different, however, if you can verify the factory amp just above the driver kick panel I'd imagine you'd need the can-bus harness due to the connection type between the radio and amp. The actual head unit does NOTHING to control sound, it's all handled at the amp, the head unit just acts as a controller so to speak.
Trending Topics
#8
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
You can check out my build thread for some in depth resources about the stereo situation for a base line system - https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/jk-g...ubicon-349851/
You're talking about a completely base system (I DID have steering wheel controls but no bluetooth or nav) so that might be slightly different, however, if you can verify the factory amp just above the driver kick panel I'd imagine you'd need the can-bus harness due to the connection type between the radio and amp. The actual head unit does NOTHING to control sound, it's all handled at the amp, the head unit just acts as a controller so to speak.
You're talking about a completely base system (I DID have steering wheel controls but no bluetooth or nav) so that might be slightly different, however, if you can verify the factory amp just above the driver kick panel I'd imagine you'd need the can-bus harness due to the connection type between the radio and amp. The actual head unit does NOTHING to control sound, it's all handled at the amp, the head unit just acts as a controller so to speak.
I am on the brink of giving up because I am fairly sure the replacement head is shot. It popped and smoked from the black chip that is covered by the heatsink... and now it pops the main radio fuse in the cluster under the hood
-edit- confirmed no factory amp or sub
Last edited by BoredKender; 06-04-2019 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Follow up
#9
I thought that amp was only a thing for the infinity sound?
I am on the brink of giving up because I am fairly sure the replacement head is shot. It popped and smoked from the black chip that is covered by the heatsink... and now it pops the main radio fuse in the cluster under the hood
-edit- confirmed no factory amp or sub
I am on the brink of giving up because I am fairly sure the replacement head is shot. It popped and smoked from the black chip that is covered by the heatsink... and now it pops the main radio fuse in the cluster under the hood
-edit- confirmed no factory amp or sub
Can you post a photo of the "black chip that is covered by the heatsink" ?
#10
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Took it all apart, there was what appeared to be a bunch of pet hair under the board, so that could have been shorting it out. The black chip was the IC that controlls speaker outputs. Either way it's in my spare parts bin now though. Bought it used so not out too much money, just a little annoyed. There weren't too many wires on the harness to actually be able to screw up on an epic level like that, and they all had pretty clearly printed on them what went to what so there was no real need for guess and check.
I assume the previous owner had some issues with it since it had a 30A fuse plugged in and only calls for a 10A. Another small IC looked like it had melted so I couldnt read the chipset information. Only out 80 bucks so while it sucks it's still not quite a kick to the nuts
I assume the previous owner had some issues with it since it had a 30A fuse plugged in and only calls for a 10A. Another small IC looked like it had melted so I couldnt read the chipset information. Only out 80 bucks so while it sucks it's still not quite a kick to the nuts