R3v3n4n7

So, I bought my wrangler x used. it's got a very non-descript lift. if this diagram is accurate

then the pics below indicate a 4" lift, correct?


The issue is the ride quality. This thing seems to bounce excessively, and higher speed highway driving is touchy. I did spot a worn, loose sway bar link on the driver side, but i dont think it would cause this much problem. Ive read than in higher lifts, the camber needs adjusting, and Im hoping thats not the issue here. Im a little out of my element on that one. Ive also seen where replacing shocks can help with the bounce, but with not knowing what lift is on this thing, I'm not sure if i need to get specific parts to fix previous owners mistakes. Any advice, suggestions are ideas?

resharp001

Caster is the issue, not camber. Most modded jeeps out there aren't done very well. People throw cheap lifts on due to price tag and "looks" while ignoring important things like caster. They don't know any better and they caulk up the crappy driving to "hey, it's a jeep, it's supposed to be like that!" If that has a 4" lift, and no caster correction (adjustable control arms, control arm drop brackets, etc), then you're probably rocking about 2.7° or 2.8° of caster. Factory spec is 4.2°, and this is one of those things that small changes make a big difference.

Take some pictures of you control arms, both axle and frame side, and take pictures of your steering from sitting directly in front of the jeep where we can see the whole thing.

R3v3n4n7

These are the best i can get right now. It's 2AM and I'm at work, but I'll try to get better ones later.

resharp001

If you want a road map, here are two options for you:

1) lower it. Put some 2.5" springs under it and bring it down. Jeep should only be lifted to accommodate desired tires and there is no reason to lift 4" unless you're running 40s. Higher ain't better.

2) correct caster with either adjustable front control arms, or control arm drop brackets ($100-160). That will raise your caster back up and be a big improvement. I'd also suggest a high-steer kit for your drag link and front TB to reduce those steering angles. Most of us will flip the drag link to mount on top of the knuckle (requires a new DL) and then raise the TB mount on the axle with a quality braket (you need to keep the DL and TB parallel)

You want that caster back up over 4°. There's no magic number, more an "acceptable" range.....4-5° depending on setup. Too low and you get crappy driving, too high and you start to flirt with driveline vibes.

if you want a whole-hearted honest opinion, I'd lower it to 2.5" AND add control arm brackets. It would drive a lot nicer.

R3v3n4n7

Sounds like I need to do some thinking on this. Thanks so much for the input!

resharp001

I was just outside and snapped a picture of my steering so you can understand how sharp your DL and TB angles are up front. this is with a 3.5" lift and a high steer kit (drag link flip) -

my jeep is a mess from a road trip....pay no attention to that part

R3v3n4n7

holy crap. thats a huge difference! i'm guessing it will cause harsher wear on the hardware fasteners, too, eh?
on a side note, i noticed there are terraflex coil spacers on the coils. could i remove them to help with the bounce more? the steering itself isnt a huuuuge deal as it doesnt go on highway very often.

R3v3n4n7

any reccomendation on brand of control arms?

R3v3n4n7

@resharp001 can i get away with doing them in sets? like front then rear or lowers then uppers? or does this all need to be done at once?

resharp001

You can do them in sets. In the front, with less lift, you can get away with just the front lowers. Once you're over 3" it's really just best to do all 4 fronts.....reposition the axle with the lowers and adjust caster with the uppers. On a 4dr the rear driveshaft angle is more forgiving, and it helps having a CV joint on both ends, so adjusting the pinion angle is a bit less important. In the rear it becomes more important with 37" tires cuz that rear axle has crept forward enough that the tire looks wonky in the wheel well and starts having clearance issues at the front of that. It's the same with 35s but it doesn't "look" as wonky. In a perfect world you do a full set and just do it right, but you can get by without the rears if budget is an issue.

My personal preference is Metalcloak because I like the joints they use. Based on seeing some recent posts, I think Currie is a good option these days as well. I'd stay away from arms that used metal joints has they are going to provide a harsher ride (the joints aren't going to absorb anything and will transfer all bumps/energy right into the frame). Metalcloak is having their cinco de mayo sale right now (I just got an email). 10% off and free shipping. they do "flash" sales sent out via email list, typically around any holiday. They have more of a direct-to-consumer model. When you really examine their components, they are not that much more expensive than the cheaper and inferior parts manufacturers. At the end of the day though, all these control arms are doing the same thing. The differences are in the joints so look around at some options.

If you are not offroading in big rocks, control arm brackets are a much cheaper option and actually provide a more factory-quality ride. It really all has to do with the angles the control arms run from the axle to the frame. Everyone has different needs so for some of us control arms are a better option but there are tradeoffs with both control arms and brackets.