First post here and I'll try to be as detailed as I can....

2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited Sport- ~163,000 miles and is completely stock suspension.

Note: I've had this vehicle since 158,000 miles and I put maybe 2000 miles on it a year. It's a just a mall cruiser and my 13 yr old son will drive someday, while I get all the kinks worked out on it.

The ball joints were bad and it looked like everything under there was original so I decided to do a steering / ball joint refresh. Here are the parts I ordered:
52302-0008
68017182AA - U-JOINT AXLE 07-09 JK RUBICON
56100-0001
18036.05 - SPICER BALL JOINT KIT 07-11 JK D30 D44
56118-0716
SK1 - CRO LHD STEERING KIT 07-16 WRANGLER JK

I installed everything and was careful to torque everything to spec. I ended up not replacing the U joints as they weren't that bad and I didn't have a press to get them out. They were pretty stuck and it's a project for another day.

After I got the vehicle aligned yesterday at Discount Tire, the drive home wasn't inspiring. It didn't seem to track very well. I attached the alignment sheet and you can see the Camber is out of spec. I've read that's not uncommon for JK's, however, I'm wanting to get it right and driving right.

The Ask: What are some things I can check/try to improve handling? This is my first Jeep and I'm not used to working on solid axle vehicles.

I'm going under there today to double check everything, and also try to straighten up the steering wheel. It's probably 1/2" from being centered and is annoying to me. I might also try driving it with stabilizer shock removed just to see what that does. It's a $12K vehicle so I don't want to dump a ton of money into it, but needs to be confident to driving it on the highway obviously.

Last Question: I did not use that gold looking preload bushing (?). I didn't see it used in any videos I watched so I assume it's perhaps used on earlier year models?

 

Unless you get adjustable ball joints, the camber is not adjustable.

The "steer ahead" (steering wheel angle) shows 0.0 degrees on the alignment "Current Measurements". With the wheels straight, that's exactly what it should be. Given that the toe is equal on both sides, your steering should be dead on.

I have an OBDII reader I can monitor my steering wheel angle. On a normal road crown (slight rightward slope for drainage), the steering angle is off by about a degree or two, but on a flat surface, it's dead on. Are you sure you aren't seeing the normal pull from the road crown?

 

Interesting you can read that on the ODBII. I wasn't sure how sophisticated the steering system was on this vehicle. Beyond the pitman arm it's all mechanical so figured I could just give the steering link coupler a little adjustment to get it so the steering wheel feels right.

Certainly the roads/crown make it hard to truly test accuracy of it all.

Taking of the stabilizer shock maybe helped a little. I might play with the mounting angle on it also since it's adjustable due to the U bolt mounting.