Hello Everyone,

I’m new to the forum and need advice/options; I recently acquired a 08 X that is in need some help/rebuilding.

As far as I can tell, it comes with the following:

35” tires Dunlap Mud Rovers (35x12.50R17)
Pro Comp - 4” Lift shocks and springs
Skyjacker - Steering stabilizer
JKS - Front and rear adjustable track bars
JKS – Adjustable Sway bar links
Dynomax – Exhaust
Rough Country - 2 ½” spacers (debating on removing)


Now the Bad…

Needs Paint w/minor body work
Steering Adjustments as the ESP is activating
Fenders (Thinking about Xenon JK Flat Panel Flares any thoughts?)
Rear bumper/tire carrier any suggestions would be appreciate
Body Protection
Skid Plates
Re-gearing or new Axle
As well as various other parts as there are lots of rattling and clanking when hitting a speed bump


My big concern when driving above 35 the Jeep will start shacking violently I am assuming this because of the steering, ESP, alignment and possible incorrect installation of the lift. Any other thoughts would be appreciated.

I am looking at either re-gearing or replacing the axels, leaning towards the regearing due to finances and all the other things that need to be replaced/repaired at this time. Can anybody advise as to what are the advantaged/disadvantages of both are? Also was looking at replacing the drive shafts, the stock ones appear to be ok at this time, but hot sure how long I have. Again looking for suggestions and recommendations.

I am not 100% committed to the current setup, but would like to keep as much as possible at this time. I need options as to what to do next as this is a rather large project (for me). Thanks for your thoughts


HelluvaJK

 

Sounds like a nice setup. The shaking could be your caster setting. Have it checked and adjusted as necessary to somewhere between 6 and 8 degrees positive. That might help with the bump steer.
Good luck with your project.

 

I feel like with only 35's, Id be yanking those spacers out of the coils.

Why would you need 6.5" of lift? Mine feels tippy on trails with only 4".

As for the loose steering, Id bet control arms would help, or you can go over all the bolts making everything tight, checking for play, etc.

Fix all that, then mask it with a stout steering stabilizer, or buy some Adj. LCA's for the win!

I would also have the tire package re-balanced, and run the correct pressure. It has been my experience that most folks do not rotate tires, and do not run correct pressure. After 5-10k miles of bad stuff, most tires are ruined for ever being perfect again. If you keep them balanced and dont allow the weird wear pattern to ever start, they are so much easier to live with for 30,40, 50k miles.

Just my experience.

 

At this point I would assume that any work that has been done is wrong and start from there. I agree get rid of the spacers and make any adjustments to the trackbars and re-center the steering wheel to compensate for less lift. Hopefully this will correct your ESP/BAS issues.

Just as a note I have seen issues with the JKS trackbars and the bushing material. There has been a lot of bad bushing floating around on the market so it isn't a JKS only issue, but you still needed to here this. The bushings in the front trackbar were to soft which allows for movement when you hit a bump or reach a certain speed you could have death wobble. I witnessed this on several occasions and the eventual fix after months of issues eventually was to replace the trackbar. Just keep this in mind as a possible issue.

I would think that once you are back down to 4 inches you will see major improvement but you probably wont be done at this point. I would consider adjustable contol arms to correct your castor, which will eliminate the darty behaviour. Sadly if the jeep was run for a long period with that much lift and the stock driveshafts you probably have a ticking timebomb there. If it is a 2 door both are at risk, a 4 door probably only the front.

There will be a million opinions on whether to replace the axles or re-rear. If you have a 2 door with Dana 30s front and back and plan to wheel it hard then it is a good path to consider replaceing them. If you have Dana 44s front and back then upgrading the shafts and doing some sleeves and gussets will do you. Gears are great I hope to re-gear this spring.

 

I would almost bet money that with that 4" coils setup there was no drop pitman arm installed and then throw an additional 2" on with the pucks. the steering geometry is way to steep to recover any acceptable steering. at best you will have some bumpsteer. pull the SS first. pull the pucks. add a drop pitman arm. re-align. and then when you have no more Bumpsteer put on a quality SS and get on the trail.

 

Thanks! I’ll definitely check the caster settings.

 

I agree, the 2.5 spacers need to go. I have no need for a 6.5” lift. And I'll start looking into a steering stabilizer replacement.

Do you think I should replace the upper and lower control arms or just the lower? The tires appears to have a slight uneven wear patter in the middle, I believe that’s due to overpressure. I’ve read that 29-30 psi is an appropriate pressure; do you agree?

Thanks

 

Thanks!
I was not aware of the bad bushing issue. I have seen complete polyurethane suspension /chassis bushing out there, are any of these kits any good? I only suggest this because I’m not sure of anything at this point and the clanking sounds are coming from all over.

The jeep is a 2 door, so I’ll plan on replacing the both drive shafts. I do not plan on wheeling it to hard. I’m in So Cal, lots of trail and rock climbing, I new to the Jeep world, so I imagine my rock climbing will be mild compared to some of you guys/gals.

Sounds like the regearing might be suitable for my needs at the moment, I’m sure that will change over time.

 

I never thought about a 2.5” lift, this is something to consider. For some reason, I figured I needed a 3-4” due to tire size.

I did a quick look at the drive shafts, they looked ok, but I ‘m not claming to be a drive shaft expert and I would rather not push my luck.

Thanks !

 

You are correct, the pitman arm appears to be factory.
If I keep the 4” coils, should I add a drop pitman arm? What about if I go with 2.5” coils?

Thanks!