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Rubicon Front Axle - D44 or D30 Hybrid?

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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 05:30 PM
  #1  
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Default Rubicon Front Axle - D44 or D30 Hybrid?

Hi Everyone,

I have searched the site for information on the front axle for a 2008 Rubicon.

I'm not so sure I completely understand... so any help would be appreciated.

I currently am running Northridges OME LT lift kit with adjustable trackbars and adjustable uppers, front and rear for both. I am running 35" MT/Rs on 15" steel wheels.

One of the next mods I am considering is going to 5.13s.

During the gear change I am going to have C gussetts installed and switch to stronger differential covers.

In several years I will probably move up to 37" or 40" tires after upgrading the lift.

The first question I have is about the front axle. How much of a D44 is it? Or, is it basically a D30 with D44 guts?

The second question concerns upgrading other components at the time I have the gearing changed. From what I have read after my searches, sleeves aren't worth the cost. What about axle shafts themselves? I don't wheel hard (yet); but, I'd like to consider any mods that would increase the durability with the 35s, and maybe be something that I should do now, rather than later on when I add the taller lift and bigger tires.

Sorry if this has been discussed in a different context before.

Thank for any input.

Jeff
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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the axle, ring and pinion, and ujoints are beefier than the d30. check out this link, it show pics to show diference of d30, d40, d60.

http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-tech/j...er-axle-basics

if u are looking into lockers, then now would be the time when u get new gears installed so you wont pay labor cost twice
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Old Jan 21, 2010 | 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Jeff09

The first question I have is about the front axle. How much of a D44 is it? Or, is it basically a D30 with D44 guts?
The guts make it a D44, and the best D44 to ever wear a Wrangler label. The JK D44 has many upgrades over prior D44s that they considered renaming it to something like D48, but the D44 has alot of name recognition so they stuck with it. Another way of thinking about it is that it's the best D44 ever with undersize axletubes. This is an easily remedied issue, sleeve it or gusset it and call it good.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 02:05 AM
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Default Thanks for the Replies

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the replies.

This is my first Jeep, and I've learned a lot from local club members. Most comments are constructive... some not so much.

A recent discussion with one member suggested that the front D44 was really not worthy of being referred to as such. I thought it a little odd since the Rubicon is manufactured with D44s front and rear.

I guess the general concensus is that with gussetts it's a pretty good setup.

With 35s (and later 37s or 40s) should I be looking at replacing the axle shafts soon?

(The rerence to lockers.... I think I'm good with the electric lockers that came with the Rubicon. Or, do other upgrade the lockers to something beefier?)

Thanks

Jeff
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 08:31 AM
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Here's the differences with the Next Generation Dana 44 heavy-duty solid front and the Dana 30
8 1/2" ring gear vs 7 1/8"
30 spline axle shafts vs 27
4:10 ratio vs either 3:21 or 3:73
The Rubi locker also uses four spider gears as opposed to the non-locker two (except the limited slip - also 4)
"Next Generation" uses same axle tubes and knuckles as the Dana 30. Heck - it the same knuckles as the two wheel drive! Same exact part numbers.

Stronger Ring & Pinion, Stronger axle shafts, probably stronger spider.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 11:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff09
A recent discussion with one member suggested that the front D44 was really not worthy of being referred to as such. I thought it a little odd since the Rubicon is manufactured with D44s front and rear.
Did he say why? I say poppycock. What's a real 44?

OLD 44's VS JK
Position - Low Pinion VS High Pinion
Pinion Shaft Max Diam - 1.375" VS 1.625"
Pinion Shaft Min Diam - 1.125 VS 1.375 (compare that to the old max!)
Pinion Diam - 1.12 VS 1.25
Inner Bearing Diam - 3.0 VS 3.25
Outer Bearing Diam - 2.87 VS 2.85
Carrier Bearing Diam - 3.265 VS 3.313
Axle u-joint - 1310 VS 1350
Tube Diam & Wall - 2.5X.025 VS 2.5X.025
(Some 44's do have as large as 2.76x.375 or as small as 2.0x.025)

Here's some info
http://www.dynatrac.com/images/pdf/N...ison_chart.pdf
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 01:29 PM
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My understanding is sleeving the OD is the better investment. Several vendors do this and sell the parts.

C gusett is a good investment on these axles. ( I still need to get to this)

Keep the locker the rubi has as it works just fine but if not careful during gear install. Make sure the shop you get it done is aware of the issues.

Biggest weak link on the new dana 44 is the ball joints crap out easy and the c's bend over time with larger tires. Gussets fix the second issue.

personnally I'm trying to find a dana 44 on the east coast before I put any money into my dana 30. All I've done is the 4.88 gears but drew the line at that.
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Old Jan 22, 2010 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by AZJeeper
Here's the differences with the Next Generation Dana 44 heavy-duty solid front and the Dana 30
8 1/2" ring gear vs 7 1/8"
30 spline axle shafts vs 27
4:10 ratio vs either 3:21 or 3:73
The Rubi locker also uses four spider gears as opposed to the non-locker two (except the limited slip - also 4)
"Next Generation" uses same axle tubes and knuckles as the Dana 30. Heck - it the same knuckles as the two wheel drive! Same exact part numbers.

Stronger Ring & Pinion, Stronger axle shafts, probably stronger spider.
My 2007 X came with 4.10s an open d30 front and a traclok d44 rear and both front and rear diffs have 4 spider gears I just put my 5.13s in yesterday and saw all of them.
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