Drive Shaft's?
The 1350 is simply a heavier duty u-joint.
Tom Woods, and others, recommend that we stay with the 1310 unless you plan on some really abusive use. By staying with the 1310, the u-joint remains the weak link (the fuse) and helps prevent catastrophic damage to other pieces in the driveline.
Tom Woods, and others, recommend that we stay with the 1310 unless you plan on some really abusive use. By staying with the 1310, the u-joint remains the weak link (the fuse) and helps prevent catastrophic damage to other pieces in the driveline.
The spindle spider in the 1350 is larger than the 1310, but size and space is constrained by the diameter of the driveshaft itself. As a result the 1350 can sustain about 25-30% more torque, but the angle it can pivot before binding is less than that of the smaller 1310.
The choice is simple. Do you want a shaft that can higher operating angles due to lift and flex at above average torque levels or do you want a driveshaft that can handle more torque at lower operating angles.
Also consider, if you strengthen the Cardan joints in the driveshaft, a relatively cheap and simple part to replace, something else will become the weakest link.
The choice is simple. Do you want a shaft that can higher operating angles due to lift and flex at above average torque levels or do you want a driveshaft that can handle more torque at lower operating angles.
Also consider, if you strengthen the Cardan joints in the driveshaft, a relatively cheap and simple part to replace, something else will become the weakest link.
Check out Tom Woods web site he has some great articles that cover everything everyone above has stated and much more.
I went with tthe 1310's stronger than stock, allows more angles.
Oh thought read or saw a post about 1350 being off road use only? Don't qoute me on that!
I went with tthe 1310's stronger than stock, allows more angles.
Oh thought read or saw a post about 1350 being off road use only? Don't qoute me on that!


