Ok, specs are in sig, here's the story.

3 weeks ago, stock suspension, 285/75/16 mud tires, no problems with DW or right pull whatsoever.

2.5 weeks ago; installed OME 3" lift, 35" Kevlars on Rubi rims, JKS f&r track bars, TF LCA's. No DW, but had slight pull to right.

2 weeks ago; installed used Rubi axles f&r with 5.13's (front has Rock Krawler tie rod without a SS). DW! BAD pull to right!

3 days ago; installed Currie front track bar riser bracket (stock holes wallowed out). Still have DW, but not as bad. The JKS front bar doesnt go short enough to perfectly center axle with the new bracket. I think my lift settled to about 2 - 2.5".

My toe-in is set to a perfect 1/16". My LCA's are set to 23" drivers, 23.25" passenger side. My castor is 7.5* driver's, 8.5* passenger.
So, do I need to shorten my LCA's by a turn or two? Would that help?


I'm thinking now the ball joints may be shot on the Rubi axles I put on. I get bad vibrations in the steering wheel and pedal. I get a lot of slight wobbling too, but that may be from not having a SS.

My next guess would be try a new SS to see if it helps prevent the DW, although I know it wont cure it. Either way, if it stops it stops.

How do I check my camber to see if the C's are bent?

Also, I had my front axle up on stands last night with wheels off, and when I turned the pinion, there was a slight clunk near the hubs when it would spin. And I noticed that the axle shaft would turn maybe 1/32" before the hub shaft? would turn. I found there is a slight amount of play in the U-joint. Does that mean they are shot too?

I'm also going to try a different shop to balance my tires. The guys at the place I went to "couldnt fit" the 35's on their road force machine, so they ended up putting an honest 20 ounces of weights on one of the wheels. Now they dont feel out of balance, but its worth a shot...


Hope there isnt too much to track down. Any help would be appreciated.

 

I also noticed last night that the front u-joints on the axle have about 1/16" of play in them. Does that mean they are pretty much shot?

 

Had DW. Did all changes to correct. One change was to change JKS adjustable trackbar to a
Teraflex trackbar. Had tech turn steering wheel back and forth while shop owner and I watched
JKS trackbar flex alot. Had to wait a few days for TF trackbar to arrive and for those few days
put OE trackbar put on, even that caused less DW.

 

I might try that. I tried to put the stock one back on last night, but it made the axle stick out a full inch further on one side...

 

Bump and another question.

The new axles i put on had a Rock Krawler HD tierod up front. It does not have a SS on there now. Im thinking about going back to stock tierod and using stock SS to see if it helps.

I've done everything else I can think of, but I did not have DW before I put these axles on. Ball joints?

 

Should I have Toe-In, or Toe-Out??

I saw WOL's write up, and followed it to end up with 1/16" of toe-in. Looking elsewhere online I see people talking about having Toe-Out to help cure DW. Which should it be?

 

Yup, I followed your directions to the letter about 6 times. Here are some pics of the front. The trackbar and drag link are damn near parallel with the Currie bracket. Does my drag link look bent? Or is that normal?

 

The more I look at the second pic, I'm pretty sure my drag link is bent slightly. Is that normal? And could it be a cause?

 

If a ss fixes it, good enough for me.

 

Ihad to run toe out on my 35's and 37s to get it to handle right. But even running 1/2 in toe in on my 37s didn't give me dw