4dr Rubi Build questions? going to 37's
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
4dr Rubi Build questions? going to 37's
Here's my bucket list for the my build. I do daily drive it 10 miles at 45mph, and I do lots of desert trails and rocky washes. I am not new to offroading, but new to jeeps. I have a 4dr Rubicon AT in the driveway.
After extensive reading on all the great threads and posts from people and what they have I have come to this.
I am fairly mechanically inclined and have installed IFS suspension lifts by myslelf. I am new to the solid axle game so intel would be great to ensure I do it properly, without remorse down the trail. And of course I will do it on some what of a budget (including installing what I can.)
Please I am seeking feedback to ensure I go the right path...and thanks in advance!!
RK 3.5" X Factor lift
Fox Piggyback shocks
BlackRock 997 wheels 15x10 3.75 BS
37x14.5x17 Toyo MT
JE Reel 1310 CV Front and Rear DriveShafts
ORE 44 mag sleeves
Superior 5.38 gears
Solid Diff Covers
Superchip FlashPak
PSC fenders
Installed
ARMOR
OffRoad Evo C2 Gussets and link skids
LoD front shorty w/ Warn m8000, Master Pull line, Vision X 4" HID
LoD Rear Shorty swingout w/rack, can holders, Hilift
Tuffy Security Box
LIGHTS
Hella Windshield Lights
RR Mirror Relocation
Daystar Switch Panel
Painless Fuse Block
Vision X Tantrum Rock Lights
SAFETY and TRAILS
Fire Extinguisher
Scepter Fuel Cans
Locking Fuel Door
Scarab Sticker...adds easy 500 HP!
Unsure about the compatibility of air intakes with ARB snorkels (any thoughts). I know I want to maximize the engine performance and in the dusty desert snorkels really do help, but so do CAI's. I'm leaning towards a good CAI...any tips?
The key is have a suspension/driveline setup that works as one unit.
Thanks for your thoughts. Knowledge is power! Please share!
I promise to post pics of installs and trails. Photography is the hobby!
After extensive reading on all the great threads and posts from people and what they have I have come to this.
I am fairly mechanically inclined and have installed IFS suspension lifts by myslelf. I am new to the solid axle game so intel would be great to ensure I do it properly, without remorse down the trail. And of course I will do it on some what of a budget (including installing what I can.)
Please I am seeking feedback to ensure I go the right path...and thanks in advance!!
RK 3.5" X Factor lift
Fox Piggyback shocks
BlackRock 997 wheels 15x10 3.75 BS
37x14.5x17 Toyo MT
JE Reel 1310 CV Front and Rear DriveShafts
ORE 44 mag sleeves
Superior 5.38 gears
Solid Diff Covers
Superchip FlashPak
PSC fenders
Installed
ARMOR
OffRoad Evo C2 Gussets and link skids
LoD front shorty w/ Warn m8000, Master Pull line, Vision X 4" HID
LoD Rear Shorty swingout w/rack, can holders, Hilift
Tuffy Security Box
LIGHTS
Hella Windshield Lights
RR Mirror Relocation
Daystar Switch Panel
Painless Fuse Block
Vision X Tantrum Rock Lights
SAFETY and TRAILS
Fire Extinguisher
Scepter Fuel Cans
Locking Fuel Door
Scarab Sticker...adds easy 500 HP!
Unsure about the compatibility of air intakes with ARB snorkels (any thoughts). I know I want to maximize the engine performance and in the dusty desert snorkels really do help, but so do CAI's. I'm leaning towards a good CAI...any tips?
The key is have a suspension/driveline setup that works as one unit.
Thanks for your thoughts. Knowledge is power! Please share!
I promise to post pics of installs and trails. Photography is the hobby!
Last edited by JocKy; Jun 9, 2010 at 09:03 PM. Reason: updated the Bucket List
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
Thanks for the response.
I was under the impression that the 5.13's were the best setup (i thought I read wayolife write that somewhere). I guess I need more research on that.
It's pretty easy to add a ton of weight when tossing skids underneath. One skid i figured was unneeded due to the height of the rig is the evap skid. The oil pan will be a good one to look into!
Good call on a used Procal!!
So the front driveshaft is the key to replace? Seems like the rear has enough length that it wont be at too bad of an angle, but it's hard to say with that much lift.
I look into different wheels. Maybe just some Soft 8's?
I was under the impression that the 5.13's were the best setup (i thought I read wayolife write that somewhere). I guess I need more research on that.
It's pretty easy to add a ton of weight when tossing skids underneath. One skid i figured was unneeded due to the height of the rig is the evap skid. The oil pan will be a good one to look into!
Good call on a used Procal!!
So the front driveshaft is the key to replace? Seems like the rear has enough length that it wont be at too bad of an angle, but it's hard to say with that much lift.
I look into different wheels. Maybe just some Soft 8's?
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 415
Likes: 2
From: Phoenix, AZ
I'd replace the rear driveshaft first. That one is the most critical with the lift and weak. Should do both but if funds don't permit, do the rear first. I still have to replace my front since I stepped up to the 37"s. There are a couple shops that do gears here in East Valley. Don't think I can name em here though, PM me otherwise...
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
WOL has a 6 speed. 5.13s are great for 37s with a 6 speed.
The transmission ratio for 4th gear in an automatic is very tall at 0.69. You would have to run 6.17 gears to be at the same rpm at 70 mph in an automatic as 5.13s are in a 6 speed with 37s. 5.38 gears are the lowest you can go in stock axles.
With an automatic, the front driveshaft will be needed very soon. I think you can get by for a while on the stock rear driveshaft at a 4" lift.
The transmission ratio for 4th gear in an automatic is very tall at 0.69. You would have to run 6.17 gears to be at the same rpm at 70 mph in an automatic as 5.13s are in a 6 speed with 37s. 5.38 gears are the lowest you can go in stock axles.
With an automatic, the front driveshaft will be needed very soon. I think you can get by for a while on the stock rear driveshaft at a 4" lift.
The Aftermarket driveshafts are built to extend for the lifts? I know TWoods can have you measure, but I'm not sure I want to wait to have the lift installed to then change the DS's. It amazing how there are different people saying to replace different DS's on 4" lifts! Good info. Te links added are great as the forums are overloaded when you do a search!
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15,133
Likes: 0
From: O HI 4 Lo
to the OP, if you can handle IFS suspension, you can definetly handle installing the long arm.
I just spoke witha guy from Delaware who has never installed a lift and installed the long arm for his first one, if you need anything shoot me a PM. I installed my lift myself.. I have some tips to help you out
If you have a way to get a plasma cutter, get one!
Last edited by Piginajeep; Mar 25, 2010 at 04:54 AM.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15,133
Likes: 0
From: O HI 4 Lo
Hmm...I had never heard or read that the FT poly bushings were different on their long arms than their Ultimate arms.
A search on this forum with keywords: full traction bushings
didn't necessarily distinguish between short arm vs. long arm failures.
About a year ago, 4wd.com was running something like 30% off plus free shipping for the 2 door 4" long arm FT kit. The only reason I didn't buy one was because of the widespread bushing failure and squeaking of the FT poly bushings I saw on this and other forums and in person at Moab.
I had thought FT had unsuccessfully tried clevite rubber bushings last summer and decided against them. Then 9 months later, I saw a teaser thread that they are still working to switch to rubber.
From your posts on the forum and the frequency your rig gets pictured in 4wd catalogs and other material, it seems like you are sort of a quasi-rep or promoter for FT/PureJeep/Hansen and 4wd/ProComp in addition to being a JK-forum Moderator--and pig farmer.
So, you are probably as good or better than their official forum vendor rep for questions.
How are the poly long arm bushings different than the Ultimate short arm bushings?
Are the long arms running oem-type clevite rubber bushings now?
I have been playing with the idea of long arm upgrades on my 2 dr JK and on my 04 TJ.
A search on this forum with keywords: full traction bushings
didn't necessarily distinguish between short arm vs. long arm failures.
About a year ago, 4wd.com was running something like 30% off plus free shipping for the 2 door 4" long arm FT kit. The only reason I didn't buy one was because of the widespread bushing failure and squeaking of the FT poly bushings I saw on this and other forums and in person at Moab.
I had thought FT had unsuccessfully tried clevite rubber bushings last summer and decided against them. Then 9 months later, I saw a teaser thread that they are still working to switch to rubber.
From your posts on the forum and the frequency your rig gets pictured in 4wd catalogs and other material, it seems like you are sort of a quasi-rep or promoter for FT/PureJeep/Hansen and 4wd/ProComp in addition to being a JK-forum Moderator--and pig farmer.
So, you are probably as good or better than their official forum vendor rep for questions.
How are the poly long arm bushings different than the Ultimate short arm bushings?
Are the long arms running oem-type clevite rubber bushings now?
I have been playing with the idea of long arm upgrades on my 2 dr JK and on my 04 TJ.
People dont distinquish the difference because they dont know what they are talking about and just spread rumors,
I work as a 911 dispatcher and Police officer, The ties I have 4wd hardware are through my Jeep club, I'm only a mile from the store, many of my friends work there. I also help work on the crawl to cure cancer rig for competition. They need catalog photo's so I've supplied them with many, Like anyone one would. The same could be said with your everyday postings of teraflex.
You like their product and that fine, I just happen to like Fulltraction and know alot about it,
I had thought FT had unsuccessfully tried clevite rubber bushings last summer and decided against them. Then 9 months later, I saw a teaser thread that they are still working to switch to rubber
Last edited by Piginajeep; Mar 25, 2010 at 06:30 AM.
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Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
The automatics have a skid for the transmission that interferes with the stock DS while flexing. Also the front DS is shorter so the drive angle is a bit steeper. Its the first one I've replaced because the CV joint was spewing grease and it was only a matter of time before it ran out and caused the joint to fail.
If you can afford it go ahead and replace both. If not, you replace whichever one you want first....
If you can afford it go ahead and replace both. If not, you replace whichever one you want first....
As far as the Bushings vs. Joints of the control arms- I am a fan of joints! Bushings do have problems.
So I have been doing tons of looking around and searching threads, and I am kind of likeing the AEV 4.5" Lift. My questions is why does it not include any control arms? Do you have to get those seperate or is their system designed like that? I searched their forums as well for the info but could not find exactly what i was looking for.
Thanks for all the responses!
Thread Starter
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 272
Likes: 0
From: Mesa, AZ
I believe their kit uses cam bolts to adjust the front castor. Not sure about adjustment of the pinion angle in the rear? I would suggest against using the cam bolts. Do a search on 'cam bolts' and read what you find. If you still do want to use the AEV kit, i would suggest getting at least 4 arms to adjust pinion angle in rear and castor in the front using proper arms. Just my two pence....spend it if you like.
The gearing is another consideration. Is one manufacturer better than another or are there any to avoid with the 5.38 on D44's??
Last edited by Piginajeep; Mar 27, 2010 at 04:19 AM.
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 15,133
Likes: 0
From: O HI 4 Lo
If you dont want bushing issues, definetly dont do the RE with radius.
AEV and Fulltraction are both american made products, Not sure about the rest
I wouldnt put 5.38's in my 44's, thats just me.
AEV and Fulltraction are both american made products, Not sure about the rest
I wouldnt put 5.38's in my 44's, thats just me.