I've done some searches but I can't find a thread on it. I'm sure it's more a handicap on me using the search function then it actually being out there. However, that said- Just like the locker and ESP mods, is there one to control the sway bar to disconnect in 2wd?

 

Nothing from a tuner perspective that I am aware of... I could be wrong..maybe Superchips allows for it but not sure. You could just manually dicsonnect it..right? PITA but that's what most non-Rubi owners have to do.

I would like to be able to shut off the overide where the sway bar tries to reconnect at speeds over 15 (or18)mph. Not that I am driving that fast when I wheel but there are some parts of trails where you might hit those speeds and I'm afraid that the sway bar will recoonect at a bad angle or something if I'm not on a flat surface!! Probably nothing to worry about as I hope that the electronic system prevents that but I am not sure

 

Don't believe there is a hack for it, not really necessary. Why would you not want it hooked up in 2-hi? I understand it may help the off road ride, but i just leave it in 4-hi and it disconnected myself when on a trail

 

I remember how annoying it was while wheelin, and it tried to rehook automatically, I was in the same boat.....but always tried to keep it just under the automatic reconnect speed......

Over time the E-disco = problems....I haven't heard of a override for it yet.....once mine went, I replaced it with a superior product.....Currie Antirock!!!...The e-disco went straight into the garbage.

 

what a waste, people buy those for $200+ all day.

 

I believe I read superchips supports this function

 

Where did you read that? I must have missed that..

 

I believe that this can be done. I haven't had the time to play with this yet, but the folks who have installed Atlas Tcases are doing this mod to fool the ECM into thinking that the transfer case is in 4-low. It involved tapping into the T-case electrical and installing 66ohms of resistance. Then the ECM will think that the transfer case is in 4-low and turn off ESP and allow use of E-disco.

From the Atlas web site:
"How It Works
The requirement for the TJ (Rubicon) series & JK in low range is 62 Ohm's of resistance. By utilizing a couple parts from an electronics store, you can make the Jeep work like stock, without any major changes or computer system re-configuration.

REQUIRED PARTS:
• Qty: (2) 33 Ohm Resistors
• Qty: (1) p/n 300378 (low range switch)
• Qty: (2) p/n 300378-c (male plug w/ connectors)
• Qty: (1) p/n 300378-f (female plug w/ connectors)
• Qty: (1) 12" 16 gauge wire
Step 1: From your local electronics store or online retailer you will need to acquire two 33 Ohm resistors. By soldering these in series you get 66 Ohms resistance (Fig.1). Remember stock was 62 Ohms. The closer you can get the better. However a slight percentage off will not have any ill effects on the switching.

Step 2: You will want to use a marine grade heat shrink tubing or at the least standard heat shrink filled with silicone. Working your way from the center out with your heat source, shrink the tubing down around the resistors. (Fig.2) Now install new ends (Preferably the AA Weather resistant style included with p/n 300378-c & 300378-f) as per steps 3 through 7.
Step 3: Strip wire insulation back enough to slide it into the metal contacts.
Step 4: Slide rubber grommet onto wire before crimping. (Fig. 3) The round non ribbed side of the rubber grommet needs to face the newly stripped wire.
Step 5: Slide the metal contact back on crimping it down, leave the two large prongs sticking out.
Step 6: Solder the crimped section
Step 7: Slide the rubber grommet into the 2 large prongs, when crimping the connector make sure to also crimp the rubber grommet in with them. (Fig. 4)
At the one end of the wiring you will need a male plug (p/n 300378-c) to fit into the Atlas low range switch, a female plug (300378-f) will be necessary for the opposite end and another male plug (p/n 300378-c) to replace the factory end on the wiring loom.
It should look like something close to this depiction when ready to be installed (note the low range switch plugged into the end of the harness ready to be threaded into the Rear shift rail side of the Atlas, making sure to remove the white plastic washer from the Atlas): (Fig.5)
You will now need to cut off the factory wiring loom low range end. Follow steps #3 - #7 again, installing the new male end.
Plug your new Low-Range Resistor pig tail in. you should now be able to put the rear shifter in "N" neutral or "L" Low and the factory dash cluster will show "4WD" and on JKs the traction control light will illuminate. If you are running an Atlas 4 speed the same still applies with a few exceptions: If you only use 2.72 (planetary) it will not see low range which will not allow lockers, electric sway bar disconnect or automatic ESP disabling. Also if going this route with the Electric shifter on the Atlas 4 speed you will need to make a spacer (fig.7) & rotate the motor up (Fig.8) to gain enough clearance for the plug & switch on the side of the Atlas. "

With a stock Tcase, I beleive that you could do this by tapping into the Tcase wiring instead of cutting it.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...tall-questions

 

I needed longer swaybar links after my lift, so I got the JKS. They are adjustable and easy to come off. I do a lot of desert running, and it makes it a lot smoother with the sway bar disconnected. I'm over 18mph and in 2wd a lot with the locker mod, so I just disconnect them when I want. I couldn't find a mod. I have "all data" at work, so I will check how it works and see if there is a simple mod like activating a solenoid.

 

The main reason I'm looking for the bypass is for comfort and not going over the 18mph speed. Alot of times when I'm on the trails the bypass trails are pretty easy, yet bumpy and also tight. Making turns in 4hi is a little tougher on everything.

I normally just drive around in 2hi activating the rear locker when needed and when things get really tricky I'll put it in 4wd. It just makes it easier to make it through the easy trails- makes it smoother as well as articulates well and 4wd simply isn't needed.

I definitely like the idea of e-swaybars, provided they work. Now I admit I have yet to take my JK offroad and I'm not sure if the hassles if any are worth it, but it was just a pain in my past Jeeps to get down and reconnect the swaybar. Hitting a switch is so much easier, especially if it's really cold outside or raining.