I have an '09 x four door and have a pretty good idea of everything. I know I want to run a Teraflex 6 inch with a Dana 44 front, 5.38's, and a new front drive shaft. Is there anything else that I'm missing? I use it as my daily driver.

 

6 inches is alot of lift for 37s I run them and I have aev 3.5
Started out with a 4.5 and it was too tall so I traded springs
And you don't need 5.38 unless u have an auto
C gussets and sleeves aren't a bad idea I like evo's
If ur doing gears u might as well upgrade axle shafts

 

what about for my front drive shaft im looking at buying this one http://www.quadratec.com/products/52...googlemerchant What else would i need for it

 

I run 37's with 4" of lift. 6" is too much. You are better off being a bit lower and cutting the front of the rear fender well. You need too be careful with the height of the bump stops. My 3.5 RE kit didn't have enough. I welded up a new rear one that added an inch and have to add an inch to the front that RE supplied. FWIW I have more than the 3.5" as I added a 1/2 spacer up front and RE's 4.5" springs in the rear plus a 1" spacer to compensate for the weight I carry in the back.

I agree on replacing the front driveshaft. If you have an auto I agree on the 5.38's. I have 5.13's and wish I had 5.38's. They weren't available when I regeared.

37's on a 4 door are so right. I had 35's and they weren't quite enough.

 

Agreed. 37's are perfect on a 3.5 to 4.5" lift depending on the fenders. God luck with the build.

 

If you are intending to buy the whole Rubi front axle I would talk to Dynatrac first. With the Rubi axle you'll be getting 4.10 gears so you still have to do gears. I think 37's demand CM axles. And quite frankly I'd rather avoid the Rubi e-locker. I had to have my rear locker replaced under warranty at 12,000 miles or so. I'd much rather have an ARB locker. For what you'll be in the Rubi axle after regearing it you could have the much beefier Dynatrac 44 which will be much less likely to self destruct and will have better bracketry with much superior welds.

 

I agree with those above that 6" might prove to be too tall for 37s. I think if you go with flat fenders (either Xenons, Bushwackers, or steelies) and a 3" lift, it will fit and flex perfectly. You keep your CoG lower and fill the wheel wells.

Just my two cents...

 

At 6" you'll need a high steer kit (teraflex or AEV), You should look at rear DS also since you're going to have such a steep angle off the transfer case and may actually need some longer length.

Run it until you break some shafts, at that point look at something better (RCV or CTM joints). Gussets/sleeves are good. Prosteer ball joints are good.

You might consider cutting off your rear spring perches and rewelding. At 6" and a proper rear pinion angle, the springs perch will be at a hard angle causing your springs to bow. At the very least get some Rock Krawler wedges.

From what I've seen (no personal experience) 6" kits have some serious bump stops, so you'll need to pay attention to that or you won't get any flex. May need to cut down some bumpstops.

Your front bump may need to be cut so you don't rub. MAybe need a subby bumper?

 

You bring up some excellent points! I especially agree on the need for an aftermarket rear DS at 6" of lift; I felt the need at 4". I don't think the stocker has the length or the Rzeppa could handle the angle. So once you go to a rear DS with a conventional u-joint you have to roll the front of the axle upward so the u-joints will be in the proper alignment and run smoothly. Then you get into the length of your control arms (hopefully - the arms will be adjustable) and where in the wheel well you place the tire. So now your axle is up and probably back a bit and your spring is not putting out its rated lift becasue it is not verticle and the bottom is out of horizontal by 7 to 10 degrees. For my 4" of lift I had to cut my perches off and roll them forward 7-8 degrees and reweld them. Doing the above made a difference in ride height and quality. The RK wedges help (they are 10 degrees as I recall) - I tried an early 5 degree prototype and elected to cut and weld. The wedges don't let the spring sit as vertically. When you roll the perches forward you actually move the bottom of the spring forward and more directly under the top of the spring.

I guess this is all a roundabout way of saying that there is a lot more going on with a 6" lift than meets the eye. The additional hassles aren't worth it if running 37's. As it is I think I could go from 37's to 39's or 40's by merely cutting the stock fenders or going with aftermarket fenders and keeping my current lift. With the additional fender clearance I could probably get away with no additional bump stop height. I'd say go as high as you need to but no higher than you must. Your on road handling will be superior and your off camber performance will be less pucker inducing. FWIW I'm just saying the rubber would fit and the suspension would function - in no way are the 44 axles up to anything larger than 37's.

FWIW the front axle caster issue with a 6" lift and aftermarket driveshaft hasn't been addressed either. You can be ok with the knuckles welded in the stock position up to 3.5 to 4" but at 6" you need axles with the knuckles welded at the proper angle relative to the diff or you will have handling issues - or if you set the caster where it needs to be you'll have roughness from the front DS lower u-joint being at too great an angle. Even at 4" I'm tempted to roll my knuckles so my front DS would run smoother. Jeep really screwed us when they went with the Rzeppa DS and it's radically different required diff angle.