I broke my shifter bezel when installing my new Tuffy console and I need a new one. Has anyone got any suggestions? I'm looking at either the Drake or the NCM, both listed in two prominent catalogues. Not looking for BLING, just something that's beefier than plastic piece and works well with the steel console. I still have the original rubber shift boot. Was wondering if these replacement bezels require the original boot--the upper one that you see, NOT the lower one that's attached to the tranny. Thanks!!

Vedo

 

Bumpity bump bump.

no one has an upgraded bezel?

 

i have seen a few blingy replacments but that's about it. i broke mine too and bought a new one from for about $15

 

I have the brushed aluminum shift bezel from the Quadratec catalog. You have to re-use the bottom plastic part of the shift boot assembly and the rubber boot. If it broke on the bottom part of the plastic, they you are out of luck and have to get the factory part. I think all the aftermarket shift bezels use the bottom part of the plastic to bolt to, then you snap the whole thing back on the console.

 

Was it just the stock MOPAR replacement part??

 

Well, it was just that the silver plastic part (the top half) snapped off the bottom half. The fake "hex screw"/plastic studs that held the two rings together were what busted. Every one of them snapped in half, but each ring half (silver top and black bottom) are themselves intact, as is the back shift boot. Would that work?

Can you elaborate on how the replacement aluminum bezel "bolts" to the plastic bottom part? Do you have the Drake real aluminum one?

 

If both the rings are intact then that's an easy fix. I did the same thing to mine when fitting the Tuffy console. I misunderstood the instructions and deliberately separated them (breaking the little plastic bits) during disassembly.

All you need to do is drill out the holes and then bolt the two pieces back together. There's not a ton of space behind so the bolts have to be short. I went to Kragen and got a few of the plastic nut/bolt fasteners that were being sold to secure license plates.

Get the black ones and it looks great (I'm away from home so don't have a convenient picture) - I prefer the look over stock even though it was an accident. If you use those plastic bolts they're easy to trim to size. I used bolt cutters (!) but a hacksaw, a fine dremel etc would all work.

The longest part of that fix was the 15 minute return trip to Kragen. The cost of the bolts was a few bucks - less than 5.00 I think ..

Hope that helps.

Steve

P.S. Just saw you had a silver bezel - I used black bolts as my bezel was black. It might be more difficult to find color matched plastic license plate bolts but the same principle applies. Drill out the hoels where the original; clips were and both them together with whatever appropriately short bolts take your fancy..

 

So it looks as if all those "replacement" bling rings are merely fascia pieces that snap on over the original trim ring?

 

Broke mine as well and went with the Drake. You must save the bottom piece.

 

Did u paint that yourself? Didn't think Drake had color options. Looks professional!

My shifter bezel on my manual broke two days ago (i have never even touched the piece, must have been from temperature fluctuations.. i live in MD though and it's not exactly desert/blizzard zone). All 8 plastic rivets/screws broke from the upper bezel piece. Talk about cheap materials...

Anyway, I'd really love to find a replacement part that is black instead of brushed aluminum, since I have no other aluminum/polished items in my interior. I'm considering just drilling out the fake screws from the original part and replacing them with some small black screws.

Before I do that though.. Are there any aftermarket black replacement parts like the Drake Offroad one?