What are the advantages and disadvantages, if any? between the 1310 OE replacement driveshafts that bolt up to the stock flanges. and the 1310 driveshafts that utilize replacement transfer case and pinion yokes?

 

If you use the ones that bolt to the stock flange, you can use the stock shafts as spares.
some people will say you should get the 1350's but the 1310's are plenty strong.

 

my question then, is why is there an option to replace the stock transfer case and pinion yokes?? does it allow for the use of a slightly songer driveshaft? Does anyone know??

 

Yes, by replacing the tcase/pinion yolks you get a longer dshaft, and possibly a part that is easier to replace if you damage it on the trail. You can always keep the factory flanges in the Jeep along with the stock shafts for spares. Its a little bit of a pain to break the pinion nut, and there are some backwoods tequniques for reapplying the correct torque so as not to mess with the pinion crush sleeve (not correct by any means, but Ive seen them work time and time again with no issues at all) that is intended as a one time torque item. I dont believe youll see any advantage to a 2" longer shaft though, unless you are a 2 door (Id want every small advantage I could get, Ive got one too!!)

 

Just to clear things up then. Are the aftermarket yokes shorter than the stalk ones, thus allowing a slightly longer driveshaft? resulting in slightly less angle on the CV joint.

Also, is the pinion flang and pinion yoke just two names for the same thing?

 

Yes, but again, but do not equate this to having the same effect as an SYE. The difference is minimal. I would hardly worry about this with a 4 dr. Slightly less, by about a degree maybe (if that). A flange would have bolt holes, allowing another cast piece with bolt holes to bolt to it that actually houses the ujoint. A pinion yolk would attach to the dshaft via two of the ujoint caps, the other falh of these two caps being encased on the driveshaft cast piece, and the driveshaft itself would completely house the other two halves.

 

Ok. Now I have a 2 door rubicon and a 4.5" RE long arm kit. what drive line parts would you replace, and why?( driveshafts 1310 1350? yokes, flanges) price at this point is not an object. I want it to be as functional as possable.

I would appreciate your advice, thanks.

 

JE REEL 1350 no doubt.

 

Tom Wood offers some analysis of these questions on his website. I read it yesterday and found it very interesting.

 

Yes.....The pinion nut is torqued to 200lbs from the factory and difficult to remove.
It is only necessary to crank it down to 150lbs when reinstalling it.