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My 3" Suspension and 35" tires go on this week. What should I do next?

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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 07:36 AM
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Question My 3" Suspension and 35" tires go on this week. What should I do next?

2008 2-Door Rubicon, Automatic. OK, this is my first "lifted" jeep with larger tires. Getting the Full-Traction 3" long arm suspension and 17" ATX Artillery wheels with 35" Nitto Trail Grapplers. I've read a number of related posts discussing the issues that arise when adding lift and now need to prioritize my next upgrade and need your suggestions.

Do I spring for a rear driveshaft, front driveshaft or both... or can I get along with factory shafts for a while?

Will my factory spare tire mount hold up to the new 35" Nitto Trail Grappler with the added weight or will I risk buckling my tailgate and damaging the hinges?

Drive Shafts or Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier....Any input?
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Mud Pie
Do I spring for a rear driveshaft, front driveshaft or both... or can I get along with factory shafts for a while?
you can get by for a while but, with the amount of lift you have, you will need to replace both sooner than later.

Will my factory spare tire mount hold up to the new 35" Nitto Trail Grappler with the added weight or will I risk buckling my tailgate and damaging the hinges?
so long as you make sure that the sidewall of your spare is pressed firmly against the rubber isolators, you can help prevent damage to your tailgate. however, it will just be a matter of time before the weight starts to take it's toll and, if you do any wheeling where ledge drops exist, you will risk significant damage to your tailgate if the tire catches. trust me, i have seen this happen in person on multiple occasions.

Drive Shafts or Rear Bumper/Tire Carrier....Any input?
between the two, drive shafts is what i would go for first.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
you can get by for a while but, with the amount of lift you have, you will need to replace both sooner than later.



so long as you make sure that the sidewall of your spare is pressed firmly against the rubber isolators, you can help prevent damage to your tailgate. however, it will just be a matter of time before the weight starts to take it's toll and, if you do any wheeling where ledge drops exist, you will risk significant damage to your tailgate if the tire catches. trust me, i have seen this happen in person on multiple occasions.



between the two, drive shafts is what i would go for first.
x2 Both are a must
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 07:47 AM
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Like wayoflife between the two driveshafts but I would invest in gears before either and run the stock driveshafts until you save for the new ones
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by jesse0376
Like wayoflife between the two driveshafts but I would invest in gears before either and run the stock driveshafts until you save for the new ones
he has a rubicon and can make due with the 4.10. a lot of my friends are doing this now and hell, i've even run 37's with 3.73's. it's nothing to write home about but, it's tollerable.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by wayoflife
he has a rubicon and can make due with the 4.10. a lot of my friends are doing this now and hell, i've even run 37's with 3.73's. it's nothing to write home about but, it's tollerable.
Thanks for the feedback. I heard that on a 2-door with 3" lift or more that the rear drive shaft is particularly prone to wear with the extreme angle.

I purchased an AEV ProCal to correct odometer/speedometer with the 35's. I read that this will help the shift points and driveability as well. Would I still need to re-gear eventually?
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mud Pie
I purchased an AEV ProCal to correct odometer/speedometer with the 35's. I read that this will help the shift points and driveability as well. Would I still need to re-gear eventually?
It is personal preference, and budget. Turn OD Off and see what you think. My opinion, auto's are under-geared straight from the factory, and I couldn't wait to get new gears in. But you need to drive it with the new tires and decide for yourself.

To get an idea, measure the new tires and plug the number into the chart in the faq's. That will give OD On rpm at 70. Then divide that number by .69 to get your OD Off rpm. Opinions will vary, but mid-2k's are what you are shooting for.

Last edited by nthinuf; Feb 27, 2011 at 12:07 PM.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by karls10jk
Well it looks like you'll need some new parts, so I'll help you out. I'll take your rubi take-offs for $250
What are you looking for. I have all my original Rubi parts in my garage.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by nthinuf
It is personal preference, and budget. Turn OD Off and see what you think. My opinion, auto's are under-geared straight from the factory, and I couldn't wait to get new gears in. But you need to drive it with the new tires and decide for yourself.

To get an idea, measure the new tires and plug the number into the chart in the faq's. That will give OD On rpm at 70. Then divide that number by .69 to get your OD Off rpm. Opinions will vary, but mid-2k's are what you are shooting for.
Ditto...Automatic Trans. JK's are under-geared from factory.
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Old Feb 27, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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My friend has 315's and 4" Skyjacker and the 4.10 gears...no problems, drives nice and wheels when and where he wants. I have never heard of driveshaft replacement for this...so my question is why?
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